WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

I was speaking of coilovers, i keep confusing the two. Thanks for the clarification.

The stiffer the better the handling right? but at what point for a street car do you compromise for drivability on the street.

L695speed

I read somewhere they were closer to 650 stock. 550 in earlier cars. Pro Kit springs are 714 or so, Sportlines are lower than that. I know the pro kit is stiffer than stock both front and rear, by how much, seems to be up to debate because GM changed the spring rates so often.

As for streetability, its all in how its setup. If you set it up like my cousin's old integra...its gonna suck big time. He couldn't even do a K turn with his steering radius and he had coilovers. Now thats probably bec the PO before him didn't do it right. As 86TA says, 800+ lb springs in the front is not out of this world crazy. I think people are running 900s with ground control weight jacks with regularity.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Ive seen that issue too, suspension settings were too stiff on the street, ride was very uncomfortable and it didnt handle all that well.

Trying to find a nice medium, the roads arnt even, or designed for fast cornering like a track is, so finding a nice medium isnt easy to me.

L695speed

Yeah, which is why I decided to stick with the Pro-Kit and Konis, people autocross and do road courses on that combo as well as go on the street with them. I know a guy with a 2002 TA who put that combo on, he loved it. But its your car, so no pressure. You asked for opinions and input. Who knows, I might want to go stiffer myself lol, however thats a good starting point as any. I hear coilovers are good on drag racers though. Not sure as to why, but thats besides the point, that is straight line performance not handling.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

Springs for the Ground Control kit are dirt cheap. If you go with a 800-900lb front spring to start with and it is too stiff, just pull them off tuck them in a corner for a track event and order some softer springs. I can, almost, guarantee they will not be too stiff. As for the read anywhere between 175-250lb you will be good and shoultdn't need a softer spring.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Got my UMI CC plates the other day. Quality is great, but thats a given with UMI. Going to install them first chance I get.

Might be a stupid question, it did come with instructions but i still have a question lol.

So the little metal piece(the bearing/housing) is put on top of the shock stud, and the nut is threaded on but not tightened. Then you install the CC plate "housings" i call them as the instructions tell you to, THEN do you use the supplied harware to bolt that bearing housing to the CC housing?

sound lost dont i?

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Bump any help would be nice

UMI Sales

Hey William.

When I install CC plates on project cars, I install the CC plate complete with the bearing housing and four 12-pt bolts. Leave the 12-pts loose. Compress the strut (it'll probably be extended) and allow the top of the strut to eject up into the hole. Then put the main nut on. Then align and tighten the four 12-pts.

Does that work?

thanks

ramey

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

HeyI ramey thanks for the response. That's exactly what I ended up doing. Getting ab alignment now actually.

Was very satisfied with the CC plates. Great quality on the products and the powdercoating was great.

Only thing left is

Konis
CC weight jacks
SFC
Bushing kit

And im pretty much done with the suspension side of it. Then steering. Then procharger

L695speed

I'm not sure if you saw, but Konis are on sale now. 20% off. So if you're gonna get them and don't want to pay 800+ for them, get them now. They are on sale til sometime in May I believe.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Thanks l69. Been waiting for it. Just ordered front and rear for 733the shipped

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

So the Konis are on there way.

Im going to purchase my GC weight jacks now and UMI SFCs.

For the weight jacks, what spring rate(front and rear) would you all suggest?

Want this thing to handle, but keep in mind i still want to be able to drive it on the street.

Car will mostly be used for canyon runs down south here in CA and some autocross events. So im willing to sacrifice some comfort for better handling.

Advice?


Also installed my CC plates from UMI a couple days ago, worked great, got an alignment cause i was way off lol. Ill have to get another when i do the shocks/weight jacks BUT its worth it. Had the shop pull half a degree of camber and caster(negative). Nothing too aggressive till the new shocks/springs are on.

will throw in pics tomorrow if it stops raining.

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

Sweet i was just at UMI today an picked up a few parts they even gave me an the wife a tour of the shop talk about a dream job, place has a great lay-out..

I think im going with 850 fronts an 200 rears should be a good set-up

87irocNJ

shox.com has this set up on sale for 20% off. I just got mine.

abray1

Last fall I got 4 Bilsteins (lifetime guarentee) and put the red polyurethane bushings on front and rear sway bars including the end links and Yokahama es 100 tires and it made a huge difference on my 92 Z vert. It had stock shocks, struts and completely worn out original bushings on both bars so the improvement was mind boggling. While I was swapping the stock rear out for a 89 327 9 bolt posi with pbr rear disc I also added a walbro fuel pump. I can jerk the steering wheel now and slide the car like a go-cart.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for all the input, im excited to see how the car handles when im done.

Konis came in today.



Ordering the GC weight jacks next week and installing asap.

Also does anyone else have suggestions on spring rates?

Is 850/200 pretty aggressive or more of a middle ground?

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Bump, any info on the spring rates?

Little update.

Upgrading brakes to Performance Friction pads and slotted rotors. Currently running BrakeBest Select pads and rotors and ive managed to overheat the brakes on some hard runs. Ill take pics when i do swap them out.

Another question, ill be buying the UMI SFCs soon and want to know how difficult they are to install? I cant weld btw lol. Thinking of leaving this to someone who knows how. Advice?

UMI Sales

Hey William.

I'd consider 850/200 medium high spring rates. They'll definitely spring the car pretty firm. The trick is balance. You know you'll have a crisp ride. After you drive awhile you'll know whether the car is tight or loose (understeer or oversteer). If it oversteers, you can add front rate. If it understeers, you can add more rear spring. And so on...

Our SFC's are easy to install. You can even put the rear bolts in and slide the SFC's up into place. Then do all your grinding on weld tabs to save shop time. Then remove them and take them with you to the weld shop. Voila, less labor hours - a good shop might be able to stitch them in for 50 bucks...

ramey

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Ramey thanks for all the input, soaking it all in. Think ill start with 850/200 and see what happens. Appreciate the info. Ill post back after i get the weight jacks/konis on. Ill be putting my order in for the SFC also.

Another question relates to steering. I have a little slop in the wheel, would it be worth swapping the steering box for a close ratio box or is that a little overboard?

UMI Sales

You're welcome William. This handling thing is a lifetime learning situation. I still learn every day.

Thanks for the orders and the upcoming SFC's!

I've always been of the opinion that quick ratio is my preference. We used "as quick as possible" on our oval track cars and I've also upgraded my street cars to the quickest applicable box. If your box is stock from the car, you should be able to identify the actual ratio from the huge amount of info on thirdgen. Steering slop is a different story where you can have a desirable ratio but still have play in the system. If you do go quicker, make sure you get a box with fewer miles on it or have the box gone through by a reputable shop.

ramey

reride

iTrader: (1)

suscribed

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input ramey. Im looking into the steering rebuild now, and looking for the best ratio box i can. Is there anywhere you suggest i look for a "quick" ratio box?

Also does UMI offer a steering kit? specifically one that will help with bump steer?

I turned 23 yesterday and for my birthday my girl surprised me with an order of the 22mm rear sway bar from you guys. Will throw it on with the new suspension and see how it effects the handling. Upping the size of the rear sway bar will potentially decrease understeer right?

UMI Sales

Hi William.

I wish girls would buy me car parts...

JamesC would know the best ratio box. I'm thinking IROC box? Maybe others who know factory parts better than I do will chime in.

We don't offer a bump steer kit. Actually I've never heard how the 3rd Gen suspension is for bump steer...

Wow, I'm 0 for 2 in this thread.

I do know the sway the sway bar answer. The 22mm rear bar helps the car rotate and does indeed decrease understeer. It takes the Push out of it.

Thanks for the sway bar order, by the way.

ramey

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you can piece together a bump steer kit for a reasonabe amount. However, do you need it? From personal experience, the bumpsteer is not bad on these cars, and at stock height or lowered pretty far, i have not seen an issue in this department flare up.

That said, once umi comes through with new shiny parts..... and i can get the front end back together, i was going to mess around and see what kind of bump steer i have and what i can do with it.

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Sorry for the late response.

And yeah its kind of nice, but when your only two interests are her and cars/driving it makes gift shopping a little difficult lol.

Ill PM JamesC about the gearbox or ill try searching more first.

As for the bump steer, it was pretty bad when i first got the car. Since then ive replaced the ball joints(moog) and got the CC plates with a good alignment, which as helped a lot. I dont notice it much now, but every once in awhile i can feel it.

Might be from the slight play i have in the steering though(think from the gear box). Best to replace the gearbox and other steering components then address it if its still there i guess.


Where would i source parts for the bump steer kit? And im also interested in seeing how bad it is once i finish the suspension/steering. Lowering the car with weight jacks on konis and will be using MOOG steering products, so im hoping its "little to none" with bump steer.

From what experience i have which isnt much, its no joke. One of those things that can put you into a wall of a canyon or guard rail if its too severe or sudden.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

I have a post out there on the bump steer kit. I pieced it together, with the help of //<86TA>\\. Speedway Motors has all of the parts you need and depending the route you go for the hiem joints, you can get by for right around $100. I went with the high end joints and some dust covers and was right at $115, which is $40 less than Spohn.

Dakota W.

Bumpsteer put my into a ditch once...Had a silverado pull me out and I just kept on moving. I would go with a brand new steering box if possible, used IROC boxes aren't always good, I test drove an IROC when I was looking for my car and it was like driving a drunk horse...

nothingbutagthn

iTrader: (2)

lol..... so if you have the iroc box it's best to get it rebuilt

Dakota W.

That's basically the same thing as buying brand new, so yes.

SCCAjunkie

As far as bump steer, make sure your idler arm is adjusted properly. The frame holes are slotted to allow up/down movement of the arm. A level center link is typical, but depending on your setup you might tweak things to be perfect. The only way to check this is do run the fronts through full suspension travel with everything hooked up, and check toe while changing vertical position. It's a bear to o correctly, but if, once you have your suspension setup finalized, you notice an issue, it's worth checking out.

That said, on a suspension that uses stock pickup points where ride height hasn't been changed a lot (2+ inches), I'd level the center link, and the bump steer is the last thing I'd check...

WilliamSilver

iTrader: (6)

Thank for that info, I will for sure keep that in mind since my suspension is getting closer to complete.


I just ordered my GC weight jacks with the spring rates of 850/200. I was wondering how difficult the install was? Has anyone ever done it, and have any tips? anxious to get these and the Konis on, as well as order my SFC's this friday if all goes well.

Another update i finally got that Panhard bar on i ordered from UMI. Was a real pain. The bolts seized to the bushing sleeves so we had to cut them out with a grinding wheel. Took 4 blades and I think i have rubber stuck to my arms haha. Worth it though, the rear end is finally aligned and the UMI bar is great quality and easy to adjust.

Installing the rear sway bar this week if it doesnt rain, ill take pics of it all then.

Things are coming along nicely.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Just found this thread. Did you get your steering slop fixed?