irocz90

Hey guys,
I am new to this forum, but have been reading all of the helpful information everyone gives each other and think its great. I have some questions for you suspension experts out there. Heres my situation:

I have a 1990 Camaro Iroc Z with T-tops. Full interior car with battery relocated in trunk. The motor is a 427 dart sbc that makes 700 horsepower with a quick fuel 950 on e-85. Turbo 400 tranny with forward shifting manual valve body (no t-brake). Has a Neil Chance 4800 stall converter. Ford 9" rear end that has a nodular center section with 4.11 gears. Full Spool with 35 spline moser axles. Running 28X10.5" mickey thompson slicks that have less than 20 passes on them. Has a bolt in K member up front with updated coilover struts. The rear has hotchkiss control arms and torque arm. Coil springs with Moroso 3 way adjustable shocks.

My car ran 10.50's-10.60s last year with 1.43 60foot times launching at 2500 rpms (thats all the car will hold before lunging forward). My last 2 times racing last year and my first time racing this year my 60 foots are down to 1.52 and it feels the car isn't as wild taking off. I added aerospace components vacuum pump, shaft mount rocker arms, had the carb custom tuned and new total seal rings from last year to this year. If anything I should have picked up time in the 1/4 rather than run the exact same time as last year, but am still doing it with my 60 ft a tenth slower than it usually is. I am wondering if anyone thinks I am having suspension issues? Do I need to add air bags in the rear? Adjusting the torque arm? Raise the front end of the car? Is there a perfect setup for these cars with what i have?

The car doesnt feel like it plants the rear like it use to. My best time last year was 10.52 @ 128 mph. 60 foot was 1.43. This first weekend out this year my best time was 10.61 with a 1.52 60ft at 129mph. Im thinking something has moved or is worn out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because I havent touched the suspension. Unless anyone thinks that this about what i should be running with the setup the way it is. thanks guys!

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Well if ur getting times like that you are definitely due for some chassis re-inforcement. Subframe connectors are a MUST I'm surprised your car has not twisted like a pretzel yet lol. I say subframe connectors because you have full interior and assume you want to keep it that way, otherwise if it's full out race car you can cage it.

irocz90

Sorry I failed to mention that I have weld in sub frame connectors and a roll bar



[QUOTE=hellz_wings;5299912]Well if ur getting times like that you are definitely due for some chassis re-inforcement. Subframe connectors are a MUST I'm surprised your car has not twisted like a pretzel yet lol. I say subframe connectors because you have full interior and assume you want to keep it that way, otherwise if it's full out race car you can cage it.[/QUOTE]

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Another thing to consider for straight line drag only would be changing the angle of the lower control arms with LCARB (Lower control arm relocation brackets). The angle of the bar should be higher on the body mount than the axle mount. I would put on relocation brackets (weld in for strength) and mount the axle side LCA's in the lowest hole to see if this improves your 60ft times.

wretched737

Post up any and all suspension upgrades please, it will help in figuring out where you should go next

irocz90

I have competition engineering shocks in the rear. They were set to 40/60, i reset them to 50/50 last night because i read thats where they should be for slick track situations. My tires are 28X10.50 M/T slicks that are new. Lakewood coil over strut conversion up front that have the nut adjusters set at about half up and down. I did notice last night that the DRIVERS side rear coil spring had been dislodged from its location on the body of the car and was up against the rod of the shock. Could this potentially be my problem? the coil had a curve in it instead of being straight. has hotchkis LCA's, fully adjustable torque arm with shims, and rear sway bar. I am ordering airlift drag bags today and plan on setting up the passenger rear bag a little stiffer to keep that corner from squatting. My car pulls the drivers side up about 3-4 inches on a good launch.

irocz90

So I checked my angler of the LCAs and they are 1 inch lower on the body of the car compared to the axle. I will order the relocation brackets today and set them to the lowest hole on the axle. What should my pinion angle be and how do I adjust it after the relocation brackets are on the car? Any suggestions on my shock setting for the front and rear?

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

There's atleast one issue that is definitely setting you back. When lowering the car it brings the body side down lower and sometimes lower than the axle side, very bad for straight line traction. I'd say try atleast one inch lower on the axle side and go from there.

UMI Sales

Can you detail exactly how you're leaving right now. Do you have any YouTube?

Can you post a complete time slip from this year vs last?

UMI Sales

Oops, more stuff loaded after I posted.

irocz90

when i leave the car squats hard on the passenger rear corner. the drivers side pulls up usually 2-4 inches on the front of the car. heres some info maybe some of you guys can make something of. my drivers side rear quarter panel has twice as much rubber built up on it than the passenger side. the last time i launched the car felt to hook hard for the way its been lately, and pulled hard to the right. I am going to order drag bags and LCARB from jegs right now and see it that makes it difference. Makes sense that if the axle mounting point is about the body mounting point it would have a MUCH harder time transfering the weight.

UMI Sales

Howzabout relo's and a drag bar from UMI direct or via Summit?

Might even things out with a drag bar.