TrueIroc

What's the Best Front End Set-Up for our F-Body cars!?

I thought this would be a good thread to start since all of us on here do front end work to our cars. But not all of us know Which Parts are the BEST to install to get the Best handling and most smoothness out of our cars for our own personal riding styles.

If you ever did Front End Work to your car then what New High Quality Parts did you install?

Please List your Car's Front End Set-Up...What do you have and rate its performance??

For Example:
1. Struts: Give name and part #
2. Springs: Stock; Aftermarket (Name, Stock Height or Lowered, Spring Rating); or Ground Control Weight Jacks
3. A-Arms: Stock or Tubular
4. A-Arm Bushings: Rubber; Polyurethane (give name, greaseable or non); or Del-A-Lum (greaseable)
5. Ball Joints: Give name and part #
6. Tie-rods: Give name and part #
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast (Racing); Fast Medium; Med; Med Slow; Slow (Show Car Sunday Driving)
8. Riding Comfort: Hard (Stiff); Med Hard; Med (Firm); Med Soft; Soft (Bottoms out)

TrueIroc

I have my entire front end completely apart. Everything was stock from the factory. Its an '89 IROC-Z, but it came with 15'' wheels and 15'' A arms. The ride comfort was Med (Good) to Med Soft. But could have been a little stiffer at high speed, and could have been softer over bumps. I noticed a little sway left to right as well, but that could be from having T-tops.

I'm going to be putting on 16'' wheels with 16'' Stock A Arms.. but debating on the rest of the suspension.

I'm thinking of installing but havent yet:
1. Struts: Koni or Billstein
2. Springs: Stock or Moog, but might lower an 1'' with Eibach Pro kit (Still debating)
4. A-Arm Bushings: Del-A-Lum (greaseable)
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Moog
7. My Riding Style/Speed: Fast (Racing); Fast Medium; Med; Med Slow;
8. Riding Comfort: Dont know yet until after install... Looking for the Best Handling with the most smoothness

I never heard of the Del-a-lum bushings until recently... but I'm considering on installing them. I got nothing but good praise from people on here from them.
Who has Koni's and who has Billsteins?
What should I do about springs?

dads old blue 9

dont forget the astro van bearing and steering shaft to a reworked Iroc steering box this will cost $10 at the bone yard and some labor . but get rid of that column bushing and rag joint setup . (my opinion is stay away from the jeep shaft . ) thisb is the first thing you should consider before replacing all your steering linckage with MOOG. and poly bushings (greasable) stock a -arms are fine for alittle cop teasing put the money into the rear controlarms and panard bar instead .if you didn't already. what are kind of power are you pushing?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

1. Struts: Koni Yellow (8741-1030 Sport)
2. Springs: Moog 5662
3. A-Arms: Stock (they fit, and no rubbing issues)
4. A-Arm Bushings: Global West Del-A-Lum (part #1022)
5. Ball Joints: Stock
6. Tie-rods: Stock
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast medium?....Varies from daily driver to weekend warrior.
8. Riding Comfort: Overall pretty comfortable. But bad roads are bad roads. The car feels tighter than stock. But still takes the bumps better than it used to.
9. Upper Strut mounts: J&M Hotpart
10. Strut Tower brace: None
11. Wonderbar: TDS

The single biggest bang for the buck was undoubtedly the Koni struts.

My thoughts on the above.....I wouldn't change anything. But I'm a bit different from the average TGO member. That being I'm not interested in lowering my car. I like stock height for a variety of reasons. Mostly because my city is flat, yet has very steep entrances to every parking lot and driveway. Going to the blow off car wash or bank, I have to tip toe back onto the street and still scrape my air dam. Going to the grocery store, it's a tight squeeze, but no scraping. That's at stock heights. I'm also tall, so why lower it? Lastly, I prefer the smoother ride quality of stock height (concrete roads with ruts) as well as the non paranoia I'd get with a lowered car when all of a sudden you see a chunk of wood or blown tire on the freeway with no time to avoid driving over it.

If I WERE going to lower my car, I'd probably save up for the Ground Control Weight Jacks. That's because that way I could have the exact spring rate I wanted and be able to tailor the car at different heights for stock driving (high), car shows (a bit lower), racing (low)

I had the Moog 5662 and Del-Alums installed at the same time (save some labor costs)

No strut tower brace. Why? Because I personally find them ugly and not as beneficial as the upper strut mounts. If you do plan on doing a STB, at least do the upper strut mounts first...... 3 point braces do work better than 2 point braces. But the downside to the 3 point is that if somebody hits your front quarter panel, you'll end up bending the firewall.

BumpaD82

1. Struts: Koni Yellow Sports
2. Springs: Have Eibach sportlines / prob? going to GC weight jackers
3. A-Arms: Spohn tubular / going back to stock (class rules) with:
4. A-Arm Bushings: Global West Del-A-Lum
5. Ball Joints: Moog K6145T
6. Tie-rods: Stock w/ Hotchkis tube sleeve adjusters
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast! ... AutoX'ed and open tracked "regularly"
8. Riding Comfort: Medium
9. Upper Strut mounts: J&M Hotpart
10. Strut Tower brace: custom to clear carb / air cleaner
11. Wonderbar: Stock IROC
12. Sway: 36 mm
13. Brakes: C6

85 ZXX

iTrader: (1)

1. Bilstien struts
2. Eibach pro springs
3. A-Arms, BMR tubular with poly bushings-greaseable
4. Moog ball joints
5. Moog steering linkage with Spohn chrome moly tie rod adjusters
6. Founders Performance adjustable caster strut mount
7. BMR three point strut tower brace
8. GM Iroc wonderbar
9. GM WS6 36mm hollow sway bar w/poly bushings
10. GM 12" LS1 brakes
11. GM Iroc 1st series 16" rims
12. Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires
13. Firestone lifetime alignment (custom performance settings)
14. Super Lube used on all greaseable suspension fittings

I like to drive aggressively at medium speed, 50-80 mph. The car handles great through curves and absorbs small road bumps with hardly a notice. Very satisfied with this setup for occasional driving.

conlinj

iTrader: (3)

1. Shocks: Koni Yellows
2. Springs: Stock WS6
3. A-Arms: Stock
4. A-Arm Bushings: Del-A-Lum (greaseable)
5. Ball Joints: Howe 1" taller
6. Tie-rods: Pro forged, pro forged adjusters, pro forged centerlink, Moog idler
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast Medium
8. Riding Comfort: Adjustable
9: Strut mounts J&m/hotpart
10: HP Motorsports rigid 3 point brace
11: TDS wonderbar
12: Stock WS6 sway bars with greasable bushings and poly endlinks
13: BFG g-sport tires on Ronal R15s



The Koni's made the single biggest improvement in ride quality. I've never set them full hard yet, but even in the middle I thought the ride was good. I have them set full soft now because I can, and they still perform better than the Monroes I put on when I bought the car.

-Jim

TrueIroc

Its just a stock 305 tpi, has the better cam 5500 RPM Redline, with BORLA Dual Quad Exhaust probably around 220-230 HP.

TrueIroc

I'm definately leaning towards the Koni's now...
Did you notice a difference between the Stock and Moog Springs? Is the spring rate the same?
I dont know if I will install a strut tower brace because I find them ugly too.. and if someone hits you it could break and damage your engine.
Whats wrong with the Stock Upper strut mounts?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Ugly is in the eye of the beholder . By the way, to this point I've never seen or heard any info on an STB causing engine and/or windshield damage.

The OE mount is insulated with rubber which causes deflection (and defeats the purpose of the STB). As Reid pointed out above, consider an after market mount before the STB.

JamesC

TPI-Formula350-

1. Struts: KYB GR2
2. Springs: Hotchkis 1903, 1" drop
3. A-Arms: UMI A-arms
4. A-Arm Bushings: Poly
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Spohn/moog front end rebuild kit
7. Riding Style/Speed: cruise to aggresive
8. Riding Comfort: Medium
9. Upper Strut mounts: Founders
10. Strut Tower brace: Hotchkis
11. Wonderbar: TDS
12. Sway: 36 mm / poly bushings
13. Brakes: LS1

85 ZXX

iTrader: (1)

I agree with James on this!

LivinLarge

How long have you been running that shock and spring setup? Does it ever bottom out on speed bumps or bad roads?

TrueIroc

So an after market upper strut mount is only good if you install a STB or if you lower your car?

TPI-Formula350-

10 years no issues.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

1. Struts: Bilstein AK 1049 series
2. Springs: Eibach Sportlines
3. A-Arms: Stock
4. A-Arm Bushings: Energy Suspension Polys
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Moog
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast/medium
8. Riding Comfort: Med/Hard
9. Upper Strut mounts: J&M
10. Strut Tower brace: None - won't fit...
11. Wonderbar: UMI

Front sway bar is a 36mm from an IROC, stock rear. I would HIGHLY recommend the AK series Bilsteins for you road racers out there..but mine are set up for handling, and they are stiff.

Roostmeyer

iTrader: (3)

1. Struts: Koni SA's, previous owner of the struts had them revalved to around twice as much rebound as the normal single adjustables. Home made strut mounts
2. Springs: 1200lbx11" cut about 1/4 coil off before, but will need more now that the front end has gone on a diet.
3. A-Arms: Stock, I don't like any of the aftermarket a-arms out there right now.
4. A-Arm Bushings: poly, had them forever, can't remember if they were prothane or ES. I bought some delrin for the purpose of re-making the bushings but haven't got around to it.
5. Ball Joints: Summit +1/2" ball joints. Centerlink has been raised to compensate, less than 1/32" of bumpsteer.
6. Tie-rods: moog
7. Riding Style/Speed: Autocross, with some street miles.
8. Riding Comfort: Stiff, but not as bad as you'd think. This still isn't as bad as my miata was and it was my DD.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Hope you don't mind, I added to your list.
1. Struts/shocks: Bilstein F/R
2. Strut mounts: modded stock GM to remove rubber and look stock
3. Strut tower brace: Kenny Brown 3pt
4. Springs: Eibach 1.25-1.5 drop
5. wonder bar: 87 GM IROC
6. sway bar frnt/rear: GM 89 Formula 350(WS6) Unless at drag strip. 4thgen V6 rear sway bar on street, strip gets the big WS6 bar.
7. A-Arms: Stock powder coated
8. A-Arm Bushings: Global west Del-A-Lum (greaseable)
9. Ball Joints: Moog
10. Tie-rods: moog with hotchkis tie rod sleeves
11. steering shaft mods: astro van bearing done in 94-5?
12. center link: moog
13. Idler arm: Moog
14. tube K (won't tell because its not a good one)
15. Baer 13" 2piece rotors, aluminum hub, 2piston calipers front and 13" 2piece rotor with factory caliper on rear
16. Brake lines: braided stainless 5 peices
17. rear control arms/panhardbar: both teflon lined rodended tubular with lower relocation brackets
18. wheels tires. 96 17" WS6 wheels and Good Year F1s (not a fan but were cheap when I got em) Bigs n littles at track (welds with ET streets)
19. Riding Style/Speed: daily, 1/4 mile, shows, and up to 210mph.
20. Riding Comfort: Med (Firm)
21. Didn't think about how much crap I had done until now..

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Car A

1. Struts/shocks: Bilstein F/R
2. Strut mounts: J&M
3. Strut tower brace: none yet
4. Springs: Vogtland
5. wonder bar: 87 GM IROC
6. sway bar: WS6
7. A-Arms: BMR
8. A-Arm Bushings: Poly
9. Ball Joints: Moog
10. Tie-rods: moog with UMI sleeves
11. center link: moog
12. Idler arm: moog
13. BMR tubular K member
14. Riding Style/Speed: road/roa race
15. Riding Comfort: Firm

Car B

1. Struts/shocks: Koni Yellow F/R
2. Strut mounts: J&M
3. Strut tower brace: Edelbrock
4. Springs: Eibach sportlines
5. wonder bar: 87 GM IROC
6. sway bar: 87 IROC
7. A-Arms: Stock powder coated
8. A-Arm Bushings: energy susp poly
9. Ball Joints: Moog
10. Tie-rods: moog with home made alu hex sleeves
11. center link: moog
12. Idler arm: Moog
13 stock K member
14. Riding Style/Speed: road/road race
15. Riding Comfort: Very Firm

Car C

1. Struts/shocks: Koni Red F/R
2. Strut mounts: Founders
3. Strut tower brace: none
4. Springs: Eibach sportlines
5. wonder bar: 88 GM IROC
6. sway bar: 88 GM IROC
7. A-Arms: Stock powder coated
8. A-Arm Bushings: Energy Susp. Poly
9. Ball Joints: Moog
10. Tie-rods: moog with UMI sleeves
11. center link: moog
12. Idler arm: moog
13. stock k member
14. Riding Style/Speed: road, daily driver part of year, high speed autobahn
15. Riding Comfort: Firm

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

My turn. Here's my current setup:

1. Struts: Koni Yellows
2. Springs: Jamex
3. A-Arms: Stock with:
4. A-Arm Bushings: Global West Del-A-Lum
5. Ball Joints: Moog problem solver
6. Tie-rods: Moog inner tie rods w/Baer Bumpsteer kit
7. Riding Style/Speed: Whatever's fun
8. Riding Comfort: Firm ride is an aquired taste
9. Upper Strut mounts: Currently Spohn (set of Founders on shelf)
10. Strut Tower brace: BMR 3-point
11. Wonderbar: TDS
12. Sway: Stock 36 mm front
13. Brakes: Front Baer kit w/slotted rotors and braided steel brake lines

The rear is equally setup as can be seen in the sig below.

Johngypsy

1990 Iroc z 5-spd with Gta 5.7 motor roller cam,

Front:
Front & rear yellow koni's 1030
Aftermarket front 36.5 sway bar
Billet sleeves adjustments

Sphoons products:

Torque arm with transmission plate and loop,

Full welded in sub frame connectors,

Rear adj pan hard

24.4 rear sway bar

Stock a-arms

All Polly urarhane bushings Trans bushings also.

Motor monts stock

Bigger Center link with new pitmen arm,

Strute tower brace by moog,

Stock set up on front brakes but all new.

Rear 10 bolt 3.45 rear end from 91 1le, which is so rare, guy parted out the car and was there at day break to buy it for 550,

Plus so much more to 1inch lowering springs by Hoskins,

The car takes a turn around a 45% degree and handles like if I was driving a corvette! If not better. The turns over bumps and minor holes in the roads feels like non-other out there, I had the g2 struts and they felt great to, no joke but the konie struts are on center twist, (med) and just amazing feel, even with stock strute monts. But when driving it normal I did feel some twicks to it, so I am upgrading to moog or founders for a nice and crisp feel of the struts with out any issues as far as the monts are concerned. Just hope I won't end up with issues with founders from all the feedback, from the dust cover to the top end of the spring holder placement, so that does worrie me a bit, so I am in the market for a set and just doing research for the best feedback,

But best part was the sway bar, the pan hard and sub frame connectors, the car feels super super tight! With the other parts I've listed and weld in relocation bracket by sphoons. And the rear adj control arms by sphoons,

But the true best are the koni's the feel is so amazing! It is like it makes the car glued to the ground. A Must have to experience the feel and thril. Wish I lived in a country with winding roads that I can just open her up and not just in the city.....oh well....

Mike92Firebird

iTrader: (3)

1. Struts: Koni Yellows
2. Springs: Eibach sportlines
3. A-Arms: Stock
4. A-Arm Bushings: Stock
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Moog
7. Riding Style/Speed: Track days and spirited driving
8. Riding Comfort: Medium
9. Upper Strut mounts: Founders
10. Strut Tower brace: None
11. Wonderbar: TDS
12. Sway: 36 mm
13. Brakes: C6

plum92_camaro

First off there is no best suspension, no one set up fits all.

1. Struts: Koni Yellows
1B. Strut mounts/Caster Camber Plates: Hotpart.com/J&M Products Caster Camber plates. -.5* on the street, -2.5+ on the track.
2. Springs: Ground Control Weight Jacks, Currently 850# but changing to 1000# springs
3. A-Arms: Stock, painted with POR15
4. A-Arm Bushings: Global West Del-A-Lum (greaseable)
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Moog painted with POR15. QA1 adjuster sleeves. I would like to upgrade the outer tie rods to Baer bump steer ends
7. Riding Style/Speed: Driven regularly, autoX, and HPDE/PDX(road racing)
8. Riding Comfort: Hard (Stiff)-Med (Hard) I don't mind it. I always describe it as VERY sports car. My wife doesn't complain but she also understands its not suppose to ride as nice as her car. Bumps that are harsh in any car are harsher in my camaro. We'll see how it rides with the 1000# springs.

I also used Timken bearings in the hubs when I did the complete rebuild/upgrade. TDS wonder bar, and Stock 34mm sway bar with Energy Suspension bushings and end links properly fitted for new ride height.

Johngypsy

Sorry I have to say this to our other member who said that there is no beat suspension set up out there.

This is wrong! There are set ups that are just beyond our time to do and money. There is set ups that are just to much to comprehend to our limits. Granted for our 3rd gens we have to choose what we want to do with them. As some of our members has little to no money to do what we called the bucket list of work and desires.

As for set ups that are no best out there?
The corvette zr1 is top of the line there is nothing out there other then the old saleen S7, with adjusting suspension and the (new/old) design of the dampers for the magnet ride struts are none best out there, they are and is the top notch suspension there is to offer, world class to nascar, as for our set ups again, your correct on for the moment,
We have guys out there who has done set up from the coil overs and k-members with all the money to the best parts, and I asked him how is the suspension? Do u like it? How does it ride? (91 z28) he told me straight out. I wish I knew and know what I know now, and I wish that I went the other way, he said that he made a terrible mistake by doing this set up like this, that it handles like if he was in the Indianapolis 500, but he can't take it to the store or on the road as he feels every bump and when he hits a bump? He feels like the z will go air born...

Asked another guy who dome stock kyb strut mounts, sub frame connectors and a few other mods for the suspension and he told me that he is soo soo happy what it is and how she feels like a corvette (c4) for the 89 Iroc z, so not all the time you get what you pay for, and yes our cars can be made to handle like a champ!
Koni's
Springs
Sub frame connectors
36mm sway bars
24mm rear sway
Tower brace strut
Good p-245-50-16's (oem)
Pan hard
Rear control arms

And a few others, I think twice if that's not a dam good set up for any condition street or track!
Period.....

plum92_camaro

Let me elaborate. When you say"best" to me, it means that it is so good or perfect that everyone will like it in their car and it will work best no matter what they do with the car and that is why I say there is NOT a best suspension set up.

A drag racer, a street cruiser, and an autoX/road racer will all have different set ups that work best FOR THEM. I would go as far as to agree that there probably is a best drag set up, and maybe a best autoX/RR set up but there are factors that would change it car to car or driver to driver, but not everyone would agree on a street set up because some are happy with a stiff/hard performance suspension and some want a soft/pleasant ride for cruising. Driver preference makes having a one set up fits all impossible.

seiplentz

iTrader: (2)

I will add to this. I upgraded my whole suspension with the stiffer moog springs and complete poly bushings. It handles great but its so harsh to cruise in I hate it!!! I am going to be changing the springs and shocks soon. I also have 18" wheels with 40 series tires that i'm sure don't help

1. Struts: Monroe sensatracks
2. Springs: Moog
3. A-Arms: Stock
4. A-Arm Bushings: Energy Suspension Polys
5. Ball Joints: Moog
6. Tie-rods: Moog
7. Riding Style/Speed: Fast/medium
8. Riding Comfort: Hard
9. Upper Strut mounts: stock
10. Strut Tower brace: None - won't fit...
11. Wonderbar: UMI