greenyone

iTrader: (1)

I just bought this 91 Z28 G92 code car. I can't tell if it's been lowered or not. I sold my last 3rd gen in 1999 and I don't remember having as much trouble getting a jack underneath it. Also, I noticed that is has blue springs on the front. Obviously aftermarket. Any body know who makes blue colored coils?

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

It's definitely lowered. Maybe Suspension Spring Specialist?

http://www.bluecoilspring.com/

Welcome to the forum.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the welcome. Looking forward to spending a lot of time here. No such thing existed when I owned my last 3rd gen from 93-99.

plum92_camaro

Your stance looks a lot like mine. Lowered in the front, stock in the rear. I've only been able to afford the front suspension so far. The rear suspension is on the "to do" list.

Great looking car! Welcome! This is the greatest forum ever!!! Anything you can think of is on here if you can find it and there are a lot of knowledgeable, and helpful people on here.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, it's going to be a project. The paint and interior are shot...but it's rust free and runs like a raped ape!!! I'm just trying to get it mechanically reliable at this point. I think the VATS key system is causing some starting problems and it needs valve seals in the worst way.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It's "lower" than original; whether intentional, or by merely the crappy stock crap crapping out and turning to crap (did I mention "crap"? I forgot... ), who knows.

Does it ride good? handle good? otherwise work good? then it's ... GOOD. If it doesn't, then ,,, ............... ,,, ....... it's NOT.

To paraphrase one of The Great Ones in a totally unrelated field of endeavor (except insofar as it's related to human excellence), "if it WORKS good, it IS good". And by extension, if it DOESN'T work good, then it's NOT.

Clear your head, use logic instead of BUZZWORDS like "lowered", think clearly, avoid the kind of stoooopidity that the children with the Honduh things that are pretty much a Happy Meal toy seem to fall prey to and even WORSHIP, proceed more nearly directly toward the right answer.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

uh

SlickTrackGod

The springs are Suspension Techniques. The company used to be much more sought after products a few decades ago. The new Suspension Techniques is simply "ST" and sell green colored spring currently.

Those old ST springs are well desired. The fronts are linear and the rears progressive. Very very nice springs. The last set I saw other than mine were at House Of Camaro about a decade ago. They are "IROC Sport springs" and have a very agressive spring rate (aprox 800lbs.) I used them slightly trimmed down in a radical V6 build I once owned.

SlickTrackGod

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

Better weight distribution for handling.

SlickTrackGod

This car pulled a documented 1.07g on a skidpad on factory 8" IROC wheels and 220TW Goodyear GS-D3 street tires.

Also pulled a 60-0 braking in 102 feet. For comparison, a factory 1987 IROC V8 car stock pulled it in 147 feet. I stopped in 2/3rds the distance.

You're not the first skeptic Drew. This car took apart 11 local TGO board members in an autox challange back in 2004 after a 2 month long **** talking post leading up to me putting them ALL to rest by 4 seconds and greater on a 60 second course.

I will also note this car was extensively altered over the next two years as it continued to develop aftger the said autox event. I posted an ongoing $500 challange to come beat me in a 10 cone standing start slalom (up and back timed) and never had a taker. A lot of people talked alot of crap especially the east coasters, but no one out here ever disrespected me within reach.

SlickTrackGod

Car

SlickTrackGod

Once for fun wrote up a 'signature" just to shut up previous people always listing their signatures under every post. Yes, I would say this classifies it as a "quite radical" V6 build:

Started life as a Limited production '87 Calif Edition RS Camaro with a custom dealer paint scheme.
I have added-
*'87 IROC 16x8 rims that I had chromed- Rims then were balanced grind to ensure perfect balance before tires were ever fitted. Reducing the need for much balance weight when tires are mounted
*Multiple sets of high dollar performance tires-update 7/05,BFG KDW(cut a Goodyear GSD3, needed tires quickly. The KDW were readily availiable yet not 1st choice)
*Arp racing studs 1/2" x 2.970
*1/2" lugnuts - 7 sided titanium
*'87 IROC 10-bolt with rear discs, 3.23's and posi (I'll get more into this later- It has been modified from this stock point)
*Various sets of stock front and rear 10.5" performance rotors and pads. Mainly Stillen brake rotors and pads were best by far in the 10.5" iron caliper catagory.
* finally after years of not keeping "reliable" (meaning long lasting without warping) brakes on the car I decided to upgrade them- Wilwood LS1 12.2x.810 4pot rears with internal drum parking brake assembly.
*All brake fasteners have been drilled and safetywired (rotors, brackets and calipers)
*Lokar custom fit steelbraided E-brake cables and clevis, stock parking lever adjuster removed and part of assembly altered
*Fronts are 6pot 13x1.25 Wilwood -Biggest anyone can get under a stock 16" iroc rim- Everything custom made from scratch. Spindles shaved for weight reduction
*Global West custom billet aluminum G-body front hubs
*Custom alum hubcentric wheel spacers to set proper scrub radius with new front brake setup
*Steering Angle inclination corrected to prevent wandering under hard braking
*Earls braided brake lines-Custom Earls fronts with fttings on Wilwood setup
*Earls Solo-bleed fluid valves
*1LE prop valve ( also recently put a new booster on also in the past two years.)
*Porterfield R4-S pads for street light track use- best pad compound anywhere.
*Bracing welded to A-arms
*ES Bushings in A-Arms and extended ball joint Monoballs
*ST 800lb front linear springs trimmed to ride height. Final rate aprox 825 lbs from trimming to exact desired height
*rear Progressive rate springs 145-225lb max
*Koni shaft style progessive rate bumpstops that are setup to assist the rear spring rate even further progessively to help induce a certain desired amount of cornering squat
*Koni "yellow" sport struts & shocks on max setting front and 1click down from max on rears
*Custom billet aluminum HMS strut mounts with special Aurora HD racing bearings. Also had them polished.
*gressive alignment setup for street use. Lots of dynamic caster gain under hard braking due to short overall strut geometry with low chassis static height
*Eldebrock TPI 3pt strut tower brace - modified
*Global West steering brace (Car already has a quick ratio 2.25 lock to lock steering box from factory)
*Custom welded upper rear steering box brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Custom welded trans tunnel/rear control are brace (pre-loaded and removable)
*Baer bumpsteer alum adj rodended tierods sleeves
*Spohn 34mm solid chromemoly front swaybar
*HD front swaybar frame mounts so the bar does not pull out of the frame under hard cornering
*Front grill and airboxes modified to alter airflow patterns into the nose of the car
*BeCool Aluminum V8 radiator, dual core.
*BeCool dual fan kit (rated @ 700hp)Relays and temp switches for both fans. One hardwired to battery and probed into radiator bung for redondant backup. First fan wired as standard 1 fan system on factory wiring and A/C relay.I had the Becool aluminum fan mounts TIG welded to the radiator upper and lower supports
*BeCool Billet catchcan
*Stainless Steel solid 3' long upper and lower radiator flex hoses. Polished billet alum hose ends (not copper flex hoses that are chromed, these are 100% SS.)
*Dual highflow air filters
*A/C system updated to a "new" R-134 setup. Not the old R-12 compressor converted.
*Darrell Young Racing "completely custom" (Not off the shelf) 700r4 with everything internally gutted and upgraded new with all the latest and greatest. Heavy emphasis went into minimal drivetrain loss with internal componant choices. Built to handle 300hp raced reliably for years hopefully. Been great for almost 3yrs so far (7/05)
Sonnex internals with needle bearings replacing bronze bushings, etc
*Custom made V8 torque convertor fitted to V6 tranny (Tranny has V8 imput shaft)
*Autometer trans temp guage with electric sender unit 100*-250*
runs @ 185*, max on 98* day at the track is 210*
*B & M shifter gate plate (Prototype)
*ACPT carbon fiber 4lb driveshaft with Spicer u-joints. Spohn driveshaft loop cut back off at this point- No more concern about a high speed polevault with the brooming carbon fiber safety system
*rebuilt 10bolt rearend with new bearings, seals and kept the taller 3.23's in it. I like this ratio on the road better than the 3.42's. They have a broader power range through corners and higher top end without going into O.D.- Good for roadracing.
* Moser alloy axles with lightweight drilled flanges to reduce rotation weight
* "Roadrace" version Auburn Posi
*Aluminum diff cover with bearing cap preloads
*BMR bolt-on relocation brackets (I welded them into place) Why bolt-ons? They have a secondary support brace that the weld-on styles don't- strengthens the shock mount for a future coilover rear conversion. I was thinking ahead.
*Spohn chromemoly TQarm with solid trans mount crossmember with driveshaft loop. I also fit the front solid mount with a larger HD Aurora rodend.(edit: cut loop off when installed carbon fiber driveshaft)
*ES poly trans mount
*25mm chromemoly Spohn rear swaybar with HD axle mounts.
*Spohn chromemoly adj LCA's with special HD Aurora rodends (34,000 load rating) also added- Radius arm swing shorteneds as much as possible to induce roll understeer when cornering /update:new 56,000 load rating QA1 rodends now fitted. part # HMR12HCPT ("T" is teflon lined)
*Tubular panhard rod (Future changes will be made here to add roll center adj provisions)
*Jegs panhard rod relocator. Lowered rear roll center.
*Spohn tubular suframe connectors. I installed myself and welded them along the subframe. Custom bent trianglar inboard braces and welded them to the floorboard also. 1) to gain catalytic convertor height for ground clearance. 2) Direct bracing design- stronger and ties into, not laying on top like original Spohn design. he doesn't do this for ease of install for the average person.
*The entire floorboad is cleaned and epoxy painted to help prevent corrision.
*PF&E custom stainless steel headers (One of a kind. Stainless retains heat and is much perfered for racing, and for life expectancy of headers)Headers are on. Used VW(type1) 1 1/2" port metal/composite performance exhasut manifold gaskets.
*PF&E custom stainless steel y-pipe.
*Headers & y-pipe are also ceramic coated
*Magnaflow 4" round high flow catalytic convertor. 2 1/2" in and out
*Magnaflow 4" round Bullet muffler straightpipe for catalytic convertor removal
*Catalytic & bullet sections both have StainlessSteel V-clamp Collars for quick change.For track use, can up the fuel pressure without the cat so I do not burn it up.
*Catback exhaust complete with 2 1/2" pipe. Tucked under floorboard as tight as possible (It doesn't hang down like over the counter exhuasts do).
*StainlessWorks custom made smooth muffler installed into I-pipe potition 34.5" long
*10" long Cherrybomb tubo style chamber muffler and crome resonator tailpipe tip (very little rear car exhaust weight compared to factory designs)
*'89 Vette in-tank fuelpump. Higher pressure and flow with metal internals. Stock pump has plastic internals.
*Holley adjustable fuel pressure reg. Stock psi at idle:38/wot 43psi. I run idle 45psi/wot 55 psi
*Autometer air/fuel ratio gauge
*Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge 0-100psi
*Autometer FP sender tapped into stock fuel rail intake block
*62mm EDP billet alum TB (discountinued- but I have a new one)
*Custom home made alum plenum (not on car yet)
*Polished intake runners to injectors. Polished stock plenum neck as much as possible and also blocked the EGR to prevent the notorious carbon buildup(Ported and polished on uninstalled setup- I have another complete intake manifold for the new motor)
*17lb & 19lb injector sets (I still have the stock 15lb injectors in the car)
*1.52 roller tip rockers installed currently
*Fiero alum valvecovers (not installed)
*140amp polished Alt with custom bracket
*ASP crankshaft underdrive pulley
*new design tensioner
*timing cover with electric WP fitting TIG welded in place (not installed)
*aftermarket prom chip- programed for 180* running temp
*New distributor with A/C Delco module and dist based drilled for added cooling
*53,000volt Hypertech ignition coil. (Stock is 38,000, MSD is 48,000) Coil underneath further heatshielded from exhaust manifold
*Taylor 10.4mm race wires
*Taylor fire sleeves to heat shield the spark plug cable boots
*EVERY sensor in the computer system loop has been replace with a new A/C Delco units within the past 2 years- everything is perfect. A/C delco sensors and module are the best money can buy. They have great insulation against heat and will out perform anything else in the short and long run- don't ever buy any other brand.
*3 years ago I had a new 2.8 GM crate motor put into it (not rebuilt) It has currently about 41,000 on it.(as of 7/05)
*I run a longer oilfilter thanks to header clearance, 1/2qt more oil volume now in motor due to larger filter
*3.4L 60*V6 bolck on engine stand bored to 3.5l (in process of custom build)
*MobilOne full synthetic 15W50 oil in every car I drive.
*40below and swimming pool ("treated") water in the cooling system
*Deleted the TB coolant lines entirely for ease of plenum removal.
* 13 degree timing advance. stock is 10*
*redid the headliner
*LaCarrera polished 4-spoke steering wheel and polished billet hub with black bowtie engraved horn insert.
*Pioneer 1.5din CD player reciever unit- no amps. This unit doesn't need it. It has much much better sound than the factory ERS system. Amps add too much weight anyways- I'm into handling so I personally don't care for that crap in a car. I have a home system that will drowned out any ******* neighbor playing their crappy thump thump music in the rare case that happens in my neighborhood. Loud music doesn't belong in an automobile (My personal opinion) One need to listen to the noises your car is telling you when you drive- especially when pressing a car (A big tip for novice drivers.)
*Sylvainia Silverstar headlamps both low and high beams
*Triple edge lifetime wiperblades
*Personalized license plate reading: ON A RAIL
*Autolite plugs
*Optima "yellow" top battery ("Reds" are crap, they can not deep cycle and will ruin if discharged then jumpstarted)
*Does the matching painted floorjack count? I was bored
*Momo Street Racer GT recliner seats (Black/grey bead trim)http://www.momousa.com/product_view....ping.jpg&id=62
*Momo adjustable slider seat brackets (specific made for 3rdgen Camaro factory mounts)
*New factory seat belts with altered brackets so they threaded through the Momo seat guides.
*Dynamat sound deadening and heat insulation, doors and floorboard cockpit area to increase negative roll weight below roll axis and to yeild a better ride ratio of srung to unsprung weight.
*Weight reduction was focused onthe bumpoer regions and weight redistributed in between the wheelbase
*ACC deluxe carpet kit
*Hurst dual gate shifter
*Hurst pistol grip
*AGR quick ratio 12:1 steering box with billet aluminum retainer plates
* Custom steering shaft made up of Flaming River solid swivel joints and telescopic shaft- stainless steel.
*Custom fabric headliner
*Custom fabric door panels
*factory aluminum front bumper support
*Factory fiberglass hood (82-83) "not yet installed" Pending installation- might not use if a better aftermarket one comes out before I need new paint. ]

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Not really skeptical, "Radical" and "V6" without some kind of power adder don't really belong in the same sentence. Holy cow!!! Timing 3* advanced over stock, Silverstar headlamps, AND Fiero valve covers? Is that even street legal? Sure sounds "radical" to me. I retract my earlier confusion.

RamIt

Reminds me when the 1000cc bikes get lapped by the 125cc bikes at my local track.
Lol

plum92_camaro

What? No cup holder Dean?

SlickTrackGod

As you choose to ignore the performance traights of the daily driver, you fail to realise that your 3rd gen is your pride and joy hotrod while this luttle v6 was built for my wife at that time to commute my daughter to school, grocery get, etc....and sadly for you it would kick the living crap out of your build. Jealous much?

biff85ta

Oh come on you have been here long enough to remember V6toy or whatever he used to call himself before multiple bannings.

SlickTrackGod

Might I also remind you guys it's not about what you bolt on, but more importantly how you set everything.

While you and the other guys are out racing around the streets in your V8 racecar 3rd gens, I am out at the track managing my race team and actually working on real rae cars in front of 8000 fans and getting paid for it. That is why the Camaro I built for my wife at the time was a V6. It was not my "fast car" it was my equivilant to your wives minivans.

SlickTrackGod

And Drew, Can you tell me you have been in a V6 Camaro that was built as much as mine with all the custom work done to it? You are so certain it would not beat your car? or that it is as slow as a stock V6 Camaro is?

Didn't think so...

SlickTrackGod

It would need to be gyroscopic to hold the liquid at 1.07g's. I do not have that technology

Renier

Damn, SlickTrackGod, just damn... think you've got another fan right here.. ;P