xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I am pissed off.

This stupid Fuel injection is kicking my ***.

I had the car tested and vacum was within specs, FUEL preassure was good even underload (mechainc tested). They thought my converter is clogged, but I told them it was gutted and that it was not the problem.

They could not find any problems with the equipment. Everything tested good.
They tested the compression and it was around 120-130 psi (mile high though).

They are gonna do some more testing, but I am not sure if its even worth it.

If this was a carburated car I would have solved the problems much easly.

Its crap that you have to keep your fuel injection just to pass emissions.

I spent way too much money trying to fix this, and its just worse.

I am soo down right now, I have no money and the car is even ****tier than before.

**** emissions and their **** ways.

I got the Hi-6s ignition from my dad for b-day and the thing seems to amplify my problems
My tach is shaky. It jumps a bit when I start the car in the morning. Once it warms up it doesn't.
Today when I was driving back home the idle was 500 barely, and the tach was shaking between 500-600rpm. The battery once jumped from 14 to 13 volts.
It all points to a bad vire or grounding but I went through the wires and everything was fine.
I am wearing thin just about now.

Toxinz

Has this problem been occurring on a regular basis or has happened since the install of the ignition system. Does the car stall on start up? Have you messed around with the idle screw. What mods are done to the car if any. Have you looked at the throttle body (is it dirty) How dirty is the iac motor. Are the connections good. Do you have a check engine light on. Are the plugs worn out. Tbi is not complicated at all compared the todays systems. Just take it one time at a time.

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

The car does not stall on start up, it actually revvs around 15-1700 RPM, one or two drops (which I might be able to fix).
The IAC has less that 200miles on it. The TBI has been re-built, and the only way to keep the car running was to really turn up the idle screw!

Its about 6 turns up from where it should be.
The lower I go the crappier the car gets.

It has everything new.
Cap and rotor, ECM, TPS, IAC, Pluggs, wires all have less than 2K miles on them. New Pump, new filter, new FPR.

Timing has been all checked by me ten times, and by the mechanic. The timing chain is dead on.

The best way to describe whats going on with the car is powerbraking.

When I powerbrake the car wont go past 1000rpms. No matter what I do. I floor it and it sits at 1000 RPMs gargling.
What does that say to you??

BronYrAur

iTrader: (1)

Going by your signature is this a 305 or a 350? If so what all is done to it? I would check all your grounds on the back of both heads. I've had many problems with them, clean up the contacts of the ground wires, clean up the screws and nuts that are mounting them to the head. Clean them all up real good and tighten the snot out of them. Mine looked fine when my car was running like crap, so i took them off, cleaned them and tightened them down real good and the problem went away. Try not to get too discouraged with it, that never helps, I've been there too. Good luck with it

83Chevy_Camaro

do you mean one thing at a time? lol just messin'

Um, my camaro 350 tbi starts and idles at 1700rpm, and it stays steady and then it revs between 500-1300rpm, ive been told TPS, but if i am going down the road its fine.. but, check the old plugs and gap.. Inspect them, post a pic of them may show some ignition problems..

new parts are not always better than what you had before.. But anyway check the injectors when the car is running how does the fuel spray look? Maybe one injector is F*** up..

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your support fellas.

Before this happened I replaced the cap and rotor with the MSD blaster coil.

Than within few days my start ups were clicking, but the battery was fine.
Than it happened. The car drove great to school. Than once I got done and fired it up to go home it happened.
It shifted violently to reverse and it stalled.
I did not think much of it. The car fired up again and I drove it, ableit sluggish.
Once I started it up that night, the tach was violent.

Than after replacing many parts the car was driveable again, but with a heavy set of idle screw up all the way.

NO codes what so ever is what eating me alive. I wish my baby would tell me whats wrong with her.

I will check the grounds again, which I did clean up, but its worth doing it again.

Oh, yea, the clicking was a loose neg battery cable on the block itself.

83Chevy_Camaro

GREAT! problem solved if you answer this question with a no.

Do you have a locking gas cap?

Some punk at your school put diesel or moth ***** in your fuel tank..
Moth ***** will increse octane like a ****.. and diesel.. well i am not sure, but its a great place to start!

kdrolt

Do the problems still occur with the OEM coil?

Is the ignition module known (by diagnostic test) to be working?

Are the sensor & pickup inside the distributor functioning adequately? (they're not expensive, so replacing them isn't costly)

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

I have a locking gas cap and have had it since I bought the car.
Sorry, but no one is touching anything there.

The distributor is brand new with ignition module which tested to spec.

Also, I did put in the old cap and rotor with the old coil on after the problem and the car acted the same!

Ignition was tested by the mechanic to be all in spec.

Toxinz

By the sounds of it either you have a pretty big missfire or you have a big vaccum leak. Its also possible that you have a dead spot in the tps sensor. make sure you have the plug wires on in the correct order.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=346147

The ignition sounds like the most likely suspect, especially if the tack is real flaky. The EFI is probably fine, and you may find all the same problems even with carburator, unless you go ahead and swap over to a whole new non-CC ignition, which isnt any simpler.

There are a whole plethora of things that could be your problem. The power to the coil and dist are fed via those extended wires. The +12 volts is first fed to the module, and daisychained to the coil. A problem further up the line will cause problems with both the module and coil at the same time. The ground path is even better. First, the module switches the primary in the coil on the negative side. This means that all the current flowing through the coil will also have to complete its path through the module. The module mainly grounds via the two bolts that hold it down, so all that current funnels through those bolts and into the distributer base, where it then travels through the contact point between the base and the dist. hold down clamp, and then has to travel through the clamp, and then through the hold down bolt and contact point between the clamp and intake manifold. It then travels through the manifold and, via the manifold bolts, into the cylinder heads, where it then has to cross over the connections on the ground straps, to get to the battery. Finally, if there is a good connection at the battery, the circuit is complete. If any one point is dirty, or has poor contact, then all bets are off. That should at least give those mechanics a few more things to check, if they havnt already done so.

It also could be a loss of reference pulses from a faulty P/U coil as stated above. That will not only cause a misfire, but will also cause the computer to not fire the injectors, and other things, as it wont have a reference.

The list goes on, and on, and on... I think with a good high end ignition analizer, you (or they) might be able to narrow the problem down, and determine if it is indeed an ignition fault. From the fluctuating tach, though, an ignition problem is what it sounds like. If the tach really does just randomly move about, then you can almost be certain its an ignition problem. Ignition problems are a real royal PITA, and I always hate having to diagnose and fix them.

walterrao

Have you checked EGR. its possible that it could be stuck open, or intermintently stuck causing your car to go lean as heck, and misfire.
just a thought . i didnt see that you had checked that

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

The EGR is fine, and I have tested it, including taking it out of the system and plugging the vacum lines.
When i press it in, the idle drops, and the diaphragm is not sticking.

I am seriously thinking a poor contact somewhere in the ignition.

I'll have it tested in a shop, cuz I am just getting crazy.

The tach was jumping when I extended the wires on hi-6s ignition that I have
I switched to my normal ignition and the jump is not happening anymore.
I took the wires that I extended and did them right with heatshrink.
So, we'll see what happens

I think the ignition is just weak.
Checked all the grounds and all the wires I can see and everything is good and tight and contacts are cleaned.

kevm14

Does the car blow black smoke when you attempt a power brake? If not, then it's probably ALSO fuel related. Which goes with what Dimented was saying about the entire convoluted ignition circuit (remembering that the ECM needs to see pulses from the pickup coil to fire injectors).

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

THe jumping tach is the HI-6s ignition. When I switch it to normal ingnition the tach works fine.
No there is no black smoke when I powerbrake. The car sounds like it's either running out of gas, or spark at 1000rpm.

The fuel pressure tested fine, but I guess its worth checking it again.