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Old 05-09-2002, 01:06 PM   #51
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Bad gas will do the same thing you are describing. While a carbed car will run on the gas (poorly but runs) a fuel injected car will NOT. It will run ok for a bit then sputter and die, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and it'll start up and run for a little bit again then do the sputter/die thing again. If you can, drain the tank, go to a different gas station than your normal one and get a gas can full, throw a little STP gas treatment in the tank and pour in the gas, try driving the car to the gas station to fill it up and add the rest of the STP.
Hope this helps

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Old 05-09-2002, 01:47 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally posted by Morley
Bad gas will do the same thing you are describing. While a carbed car will run on the gas (poorly but runs) a fuel injected car will NOT. It will run ok for a bit then sputter and die, let it sit for 20-30 minutes and it'll start up and run for a little bit again then do the sputter/die thing again. If you can, drain the tank, go to a different gas station than your normal one and get a gas can full, throw a little STP gas treatment in the tank and pour in the gas, try driving the car to the gas station to fill it up and add the rest of the STP.
Hope this helps

~M~
Well during all this crap I have been to the gas station and filled up, so it's not the original tank of gas..it has been changed. And I have run gas treatments through already.

Frustrating, no? And the worst part is I'm pretty much flat broke so there ain't nothin' I can do to fix the stupid thing.
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Old 05-09-2002, 03:42 PM   #53
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Wait, I just remembered something...

Before I changed the fuel pump, whenever I would take my gas cap off it would hiss and release pressure.

It doesn't do that anymore.

Could that have something to do with it...?
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Old 05-09-2002, 04:42 PM   #54
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try replacing the fuel filter first(it might be clogged) then if that doesnt work try replacing the fuel pump
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Old 05-09-2002, 06:10 PM   #55
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this might seem like a silly question, but i've seen it happen. you have a 305tpi which requires forty something psi of fuel. could you have gotten a fuel pump for a 305 tbi which is 9-13psi? best of luck, tom
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Old 05-09-2002, 10:35 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally posted by heavy_chevy29
try replacing the fuel filter first(it might be clogged) then if that doesnt work try replacing the fuel pump




Please read the thread.
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Old 05-09-2002, 10:36 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally posted by mckenzie
this might seem like a silly question, but i've seen it happen. you have a 305tpi which requires forty something psi of fuel. could you have gotten a fuel pump for a 305 tbi which is 9-13psi? best of luck, tom
Hm... didn't think of that one.. but I would think that it would not work all the time, not after it heats up, right?

Plus, I did tell them I was TPI. :: shrug ::
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Old 05-10-2002, 01:07 AM   #58
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If you put the wrong fuel pump in there like one of the low-pressure/tbi types, you would notice it right away (car would always run like crap if at all). If its not the module give the coil a try. You can use your DMM to test it but again this problem happens when the car is warm so your coil might still read fine when its cold eventhough it's messed up. Also, the 02 sensor shorting out won't cause this. The ecm only regards oxygen sensor readings within a specific acceptable range. If the readings are out of this range and don't fluctuate, the ecm reverts to open loop operation and sets a code. You see, if the sensor grounds out, the o2 crosscounts will be 0 (because the voltage is constant due to it shorting), telling the computer that the oxygen sensor isn't reading thus putting it into open loop.

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Old 05-10-2002, 02:01 AM   #59
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If your gas tank isn't "hissing" when you take the cap off you may want to check the "negative pressure vent" located near the gas tank. It is a whiteish plastic device with a single hose going back up to the tank. Since fuel injected engines use a nonvented tank they put this device in to keep the tank from getting negative pressure in it from the high volume /pressure pumps fi uses. If the negative pressure vent were to stick closed you would eventually get negative pressure built up in it and the pump couldn't pull any gas. To test this theory out, take the car out for a drive (if you can) (have someone follow you just in case) When the car dies, get out and open the gas cap, try starting the car, if it starts then replace the vent.
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.


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Old 05-10-2002, 10:09 AM   #60
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clogged fuel filter??? Or maybe your distributor doesn't have a certain wire plugged in on the side...huh who would forget that...me.
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:18 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally posted by Morley
If your gas tank isn't "hissing" when you take the cap off you may want to check the "negative pressure vent" located near the gas tank. It is a whiteish plastic device with a single hose going back up to the tank. Since fuel injected engines use a nonvented tank they put this device in to keep the tank from getting negative pressure in it from the high volume /pressure pumps fi uses. If the negative pressure vent were to stick closed you would eventually get negative pressure built up in it and the pump couldn't pull any gas. To test this theory out, take the car out for a drive (if you can) (have someone follow you just in case) When the car dies, get out and open the gas cap, try starting the car, if it starts then replace the vent.
Grasping at straws here but might just be it.


~M~
Hm, okay. That's interesting. Would that cause this problem that I'm having? Maybe? I want my car!!!
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:20 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by 89WS-6
clogged fuel filter???
AAAHHH!!!

Quote:
Or maybe your distributor doesn't have a certain wire plugged in on the side...huh who would forget that...me.
Nope, it's all good. I would feel pretty stupid if that's all it was though. After so long
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Old 05-10-2002, 01:29 PM   #63
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Dude, you've really got to get dirty on this one... If I'm without my car for a day, I get tense. Any car manual (like the Haynes) will show you what to do for the module.
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Old 05-10-2002, 07:17 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally posted by TomP
Dude, you've really got to get dirty on this one... If I'm without my car for a day, I get tense. Any car manual (like the Haynes) will show you what to do for the module.
But I've already changed the module...
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Old 05-10-2002, 08:07 PM   #65
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Oh geez, dude, my bad; this post is so long that I forget what's been covered already! Sorry! Did I send you that link for the chart I typed up, where it covered diagnosis of the pick-up coil?
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Old 05-11-2002, 07:46 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally posted by TomP
Oh geez, dude, my bad; this post is so long that I forget what's been covered already! Sorry! Did I send you that link for the chart I typed up, where it covered diagnosis of the pick-up coil?
:-) It's okay.

Yes, you sent me links, but I'm afraid to get down there and mess with my pick-up coil, I don't think I have the tools to do change it, and I'm afraid I'll screw up my timing, etc. And I was told that if it was that, my car would have problems all the time, not just when it warmed up. I would want a shop (or my mechanic uncle) to handle that one I think.
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Old 05-11-2002, 02:44 PM   #67
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Similar problem

My car doesn't start sometimes after driving for a few days. I tried to pour gas into the tb and it would start. So i figured it was the fuel pump. I changed the pump,relay, and filter. Still same problem. It would start and run then after I shut it off it wouldn't restart. Then I changed my ecm (just wednesday) it starts fine. Then last night after a five minute drive, it wouldn't start. I am believing it is my wiring harness, b/c during these times my fan doesn't work either and eventually the motor and braket burnt while driving on the highway. But I was told ignition module b4 and haven't replaced it so what the deal? Could my distributor and coil be causing all this dilemma?
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Old 05-11-2002, 07:08 PM   #68
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it sure could...replacing the pickup coil is simple...no special tools needed....just mark the position of your distributor and the #1 piston on the rotor. before you take it out.....remove the clamp at the base of the dist. pull the distributor out....do not turn the engine over at all.......at the base of the shaft there is a roll pin...punch..punch it out..the shaft will pull out of the housing...the rest is self seeing work...just put it back together the way you take it apart...oh yeah be careful not to damage the O ring at the end of the shaft...can cause an oil leak...it really is easy, you will see
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Old 12-27-2005, 07:38 PM   #69
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I just had the same exact problem with my 305 TBI Camaro. I changed the controle module and it seems to have fixed it but I haven't run the car long enough to see if the car's gonna act up again. I know you already changed yours so it has to be the coil or distributor. Just buy a new distributor kit and replace the whole thing.
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:18 AM   #70
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Dude....your uncle is a mechanic......take him the car!!!!! If he is family he should be able to cover you under the "pay as you drive plan"!!!
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Old 12-28-2005, 08:22 AM   #71
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wow this post started on '02...way to dig'em up
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84 Z-28 in the prosess of re-build:
383, steel crank, forged pistons 4 bolt block .040 over
comp cams nitrous XP 288HR
Adv dur 288/315
Dur@.050 236/248
LSA 113
valve lift .520/.540
"quiet" gear drive
polished and ported trick flow 23* heads
comp P/N 26918-16 beehive valve springs
steel full roller rockers
edelbrock pro-flow 1000 CFM EFI port mached to heads
Venom 36 lb injectors
edelbrock nitrous sys, 150 shot
hooker 2210 1 3/4 pri headers
powermaster starter
powermaster alternator, 160 amp
'97 T-56 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 shifter
richmond 3.73 gears
eaton posi
spohn K-member
spohn "wonderbar"
spohn torque arm/crossmember
spohn lower control arms
spohn A-arms
spohn panhard bar
spohn subframe connectors
dual exauast, 3" up to cut outs
nordskog digital dashbord
trippel gauge pilar mount
digital fuel press.
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Old 12-28-2005, 08:51 AM   #72
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Can you tell how bored of the holidays we are!!
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Old 12-28-2005, 08:55 AM   #73
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lol....now my queston is did the origanal poster ever fix his car?
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84 Z-28 in the prosess of re-build:
383, steel crank, forged pistons 4 bolt block .040 over
comp cams nitrous XP 288HR
Adv dur 288/315
Dur@.050 236/248
LSA 113
valve lift .520/.540
"quiet" gear drive
polished and ported trick flow 23* heads
comp P/N 26918-16 beehive valve springs
steel full roller rockers
edelbrock pro-flow 1000 CFM EFI port mached to heads
Venom 36 lb injectors
edelbrock nitrous sys, 150 shot
hooker 2210 1 3/4 pri headers
powermaster starter
powermaster alternator, 160 amp
'97 T-56 transmission
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 shifter
richmond 3.73 gears
eaton posi
spohn K-member
spohn "wonderbar"
spohn torque arm/crossmember
spohn lower control arms
spohn A-arms
spohn panhard bar
spohn subframe connectors
dual exauast, 3" up to cut outs
nordskog digital dashbord
trippel gauge pilar mount
digital fuel press.
digital nitrous pressure gauge
digital oil temp gauge

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Old 12-28-2005, 09:05 AM   #74
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It would be nice if people could post the results of their dileman and how they corrected it. Then we could all pat ourselves on the back and crack open a beer! I, for one, am always looking for an innovative reason to crack open a beer! LOL!
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Old 12-28-2005, 09:05 AM
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