Hey all,

Time for emmissions again, and of course first attempt failed. hydrocarbons are nearly tripple the limit and co is still just over the limit. I have cats new o2 sensor as of last season, and last time i had to take emmissions i just had to do the alchahol in the tank trik to get by. I've set my timing to 0 with the plug undone.

Few things i cant remember and couldnt find a clear answer to by searching is what fuel pressure are you supposed to use, i have an afpr, and also i heard loweroctane fuel burns faster, and more completely than higher octane fuel, so which should i be using for the test.

Any other suggestions are greatly appriciated. Also if any other information is required please ask, i will post promptly.

thanks a lot everyone!
Eli
Raptere

PS: This is my first failure this round and i get three, before i get an underhood inspection, the problem with that is that i have a stealth ram and no egr, i have heard of people passing with this set up but i cant allow that underhood inspection or i will have some reall issues.

 

That's a battle. Move here to Santa Fe NM and we have zero emmisions testing. I wish I could help you ouy but I am ignorant to emmisions and all that good stuff. Have a wonderful Christmas.
PS- there is one sure fire way to pass , pass the person some bux's under the table

 

i almost wish i could, but even that wouldnt work your car gets entered into the coputer and it does the whole test for the most part with out the worker telling the computer weather it passes or not, darn computers.

So anyone out there willing to meet the challange, never figured it out last time either and would really like to find out what is wrong.

 

As far as the gas, yes the lower the octane, the more comlete the burn. If a tune-up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) didn't help, and your hydrocarbons are still too high, you might have a oil burning problem. You can try running a heavier weight oil for the test (say 10-40 if you run 5-30, or 20-50 if you run 10-30), that might slow the consumption rate, but other than that, just hae the car fully warmed up with the lowest octane gas possable before you take the test. If all else fails, a Jefferson is never wrong

 

Try setting the timing to 6* burn a chip for the present combo.

 

from cali, the land of all that is choking and restricted, comes the advice of pain-- get an egr and a good chip, find if your burning oil, check fuel pressure and air filters, and make sure the car is warm when you run it. all ive got to offer, but usually works back home, and if you have an oil problem try some ring seal or just heavy oil

 

the numbers would help as far as what to look for.

list them something like this,

............. limit .......... actual
Nox,....... 895............ 755 ........... pass
Co.......... 0.85........... 1.32 .......... fail
Hc...........188............. 245 .......... fail
O2.......... N/A............. 2.1

 

EGR's biggest purpose is to trim back on NOX emissions. not saying that adding an egr wouldn't help, but I don't think that it's the big problem. If your HC emissions were just a little over the limit, then the lower-octane or alcohol tricks and all the little tuning could make a difference, but with the levels around triple what they should be, you've got a misfire.
please post what the CO emissions were (or all the levels, for that matter), with that you can tell if it was a lean misfire or a rich misfire. Either way, a lot of unburned fuel is slipping through the engine and out the tailpipe. witht the info that you've provided, you could have a cylinder not firing correctly, or possibly the computer is making the mix so lean or rich that you're getting misfires that way (come to think of it, maybe the lack of an EGR is screwing up the sensor readings).
anyways, good luck.
~Erik~

PS. The clean-air department that your shop sends the emission data to gets a lot more data than the computer tells the technician doing the test. it's a REALLY bad idea to try to ge the guy to clean-pipe the car (run the test on another car)

 

Unless it is the same car....

 

Can you post results? All four gasses will help determine problem. Is it dyno test or two speed idle?

 

ttt

 

I've always heard it's a better idea to run higher octane fuel. A guy I used to know alwaysj put race fuel in his truck before taking emissions. and he passed prety easy. How old are your cats? If they're getting on in years, those may be worth replacing..


And I'm sorry, but I just have to. Coolant is spelled coolant. You may want to change that in your sig.

 

sry for taking so long getting back to you guys , dont worry bout the spelling thing lol I do take the dyno test here in IL. Here are the results:

HC(GPM) reading:2.41 Standard: .80 FAIL
CO(GPM) reading: 16.3 Standard: 15.0 FAIL
CO2 (GPM) Reading: 391.0 Standard: na
NOx (GPM) Reading: 4.70 Standard: na

Would it be helpfull if i could scan and post the whole sheet with the graphs and everything?

As for the cats i think they should be fine, but is it possible if there is some other problem that they could be blown again since the last time i replaced them last two years. And i still havnt heard any suggestions for FUEL PRESSURE if someone could just leave a pressure i could try id greatly appriciate it.

And yea still seems to be a little contriversy as to which fuel to be using?

 

few more updates not sure how it effects anything though.

I reset my fuel pressure to about 39psi without vacume, and also realized i had messed around with my tps sensor. I went ahead and set that to .70 which is the bottom of the range i found was suggested for speed density TPIs.

I must say the exhaust smeels better, yet the engine still shakes a bit at most rpm ranges. I really am unsure what this part means but i took my digital temperature gun and checked my header primary temps some were reading about 300*f and some were about 350-400*f. Could this mean i have some cylinders running lean or others running rich. and also could that account for the span of temperatures, and engine shaking, because the cylinders with the leaner combustion would be producing a stronger combustion right?

Hope, somehting in that helped.

Thanks a lot and keep up the great help,
Eli
Raptere

 

Car is rich, quite possibly dripping/leaking injectors. Look at sheet on using CO to diagnose. You have no left over oxygen or it would be CO2. HC & CO are high, too much fuel.

 

Yeah. I agree, too rich. Does it smoke black when you rev it at all? Maybe call the dealership and see what the stock fuel pressure is. I wanna say 110, but that's right off the top of my head.

 

Fuel pressure is 43.5psi with the engine off and the fuel pump on, or engine on and no vacuum at the regulator. This is referred to as static fuel pressure. Increasing the static fuel pressure will resulting in a richer fuel mixture until the ECM can get it under control in closed loop, if you're already rich more fuel pressure will make it worse.

Here's a link to Bosch Oxygen Sensor FAQs and questions

Oxygen Sensor
Go to this question: Q. What will damage my oxygen sensor?
At the end of the answer there'a link to pictures of damaged sensors and the cause.