BrandenCali

I have stock L98 heads, and for over a year I always heard a noise tap, but no one else could hear the noise, as more miles came the car tap more and more. And after putting on The Super Ram and doing the valves, the car still made the noise. When I got all the valves set right the car started right up and the valves where perfect. So tuning in the trans and shift points, The car began to have starting problems, just crank and crank and finnaly start. and warm up and drive ok, as time passed it seemed like I lost power, and at the end The car would not Rev, it's almost like a bog no rpm no high Rev. So the valve springs where looked at on both sides and they turn by hand =/ of course every one knows they should not due that. So what does every one suggest could be wrong. Is there any chance there is a bent valve? a burned valve? or the studs are pulling out, the worn valve springs, Or What else could be the problem. Was the Super Ram to much for stock worn L98's?

Vader

Branden,

Installing a different intake is not going to have any effect on the mechanical condition of the valve train. If your springs are so loose (or weak) that you can turn them by hand, it's likely that the installed height is not correct or they have broken coils (or, you are a gorilla).

Even rocker studs that are pulling out of the heads should not affect spring pressure, only valve train geometry. Spring pressure is controlled only by spring rate, free height, and installed height.

If a close inspection reveals they are not broken, you should probably try to measure the installed height with a dial caliper. Even a steel rule will give you a close indication. Most stock springs are installed at 1.710" to the bottom of the retainers. Normal valve face wear can inscrease that slightly, but if you can measure 1-3/4" you have a problem.

Weak or failing springs will also cause the lack of power as you describe. The engine should start and idle normally, but won't have any power when revving or at higher RPMs.

Stock springs are not really suitable for higher RPMs and higher cam lifts. If you have a new set of springs in your cam kit, you might want to cosider installing them soon even if the cam stays in the box. You can replace them without removing the heads. It might also be worth your time to install screwed rocker studs while you're in there (with the heads on). For fifteen bucks, it's cheap peace of mind.

SHAGME

Hey Vader Ive never done that b4 is it easy enough to change the springs?? thnks

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you have at least one broken spring...that would explain the ticking sound, and the lack of RPMs. The cam is way too much for stock springs...at best, you're probably floating the valves. Get a valve spring compressor (most parts stores have a loaner program, or you can buy a basic one for $15 or so), an air hose fitting that screws in the plug hole, and a reliable air source (to hold the valves in while you change the spring). It only takes about an hour or two to change them out, and you'll get all the performance out of that cam that you are supposed to.

spartyon

broken or really worn rings can cause piston slap which in my mind is what he is experiencing from the sound of it. lifters will also give u a ticking noise. but listen to vader before most of us cause he is da man. lol. i would check lifters and rings first but i am dumb and stupid so i dont know. i hate school


i just realized the rockers were loose. what kinda cam u running stock? if not and u have a higher lift cam your springs might be shot as well.

Vader

By all observations, universal population must have exploded recently. I see it's effects more and more each day...

BrandenCali

Thanks for your help

Ryan3834me

Vader,

What source do you use for your screw in studs!? I found some Dorman ones at Rockauto. Only had 3 on hand. Did u buy them all!? Lol. I ordered some from Summit finally but they were like $35.

I have similar issues as this gentleman. stock reconditioned heads, lacking power, and some noise, even shaking. I've ordered LS6 springs and 787 retainers. Hopefully new springs, studs, SA LT1 rockers, and pushrods, will get me back to smiles.

Any suggestions on spring shims? What diameters do I need for stock L98 heads (exhaust)?

I also ordered new lifters. Hoping I can get it remedied without installing them, tho.

Thanks!

grumpyvette

removing, testing and replacing valve springs can be done with the heads on the car, but its far easier to do correctly with the heads off the car.
these links should help you understand the subject

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...springs#p10020

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...ng+bind#p13739

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...springs#p19783

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...springs#p19552

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...springs#p13780