what the hell happened???
#1
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what the hell happened???
OK, for a week, the low battery light has come on when I shut the car off, but it never came on while I was driving until 2 nights ago. It came on as I was driving home from work and a few minutes later the car shut down. I waited a few minutes then I started the car and went home and the light didn't come on again until I shut the car off at home. Then I started it up for school the next morning and it ran. For about five minutes and then it shut off. I went to go start it, but it wouldn't start. Well I figured the battery was dead and got one that night. This morning I put it in and the car started, but again shut off after about five minutes. So I thought maybe the alternator wasn't working so I put in the spare one I had. The car still wouldn't start. So what the hell is wrong with my car???
#2
Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Check and make sure you have a good solid ground, and make sure your fuel pump is in good working order. This will give you a good start at diagnosing the problem.
#4
Turn the key to the on position, make sure your radio and any other noise making deviced are off. It helps if yo have a buddy help too. So turn the key to the on poistion but dont start the car. Then stick your head underthe rear of the car, right below the gas tank and listen. You should be able to hear it pumping. This is how I do it anyway. BTW, if its really quiet you can hear it from in the car.
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#9
You fan switch is most likely grounded. That will make your fan come on when the key is turned to on. As far as finding the ground, just look around for loose connections. Check the starter and make sure everything is nice and tight. Try to get a hold of a volt meter, and check for power at various points. like the starter, alternator, relays, etc.
#11
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i don't have a volt meter. and i'm almost 100% sure everything is tight. thanks for your help so far man, don't stop thinking of ideas, you're my only hope right now.
#14
Check your coil, cap and rotor. If its cranking but not turning over then you might not be getting spark. If they look old and worn then replace them. Should be under 75 dollars for everything if you need to buy them
#16
Do you know what your distirbutor looks like? Its that thing at the back of the engine that has all of the spark plug wires going to it and the wire to the coil. BEFORE you start pulling all of the wires off, make a diagram and label them so you put them back in the right place. That top piece that all of the plug wires go to is your cap. Remove that and look inside to see if all of the contacts are worn down. Now inside you should see a 2" piece of plastic with a metal tip. Thats your rotor. Pull that off gently. It maight take some force, but it will come off. One of the wires you pulled off goes to the coil. Follow that wire to the coil and inspect it.
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
im not quite sure what your sayin.. do you mean the car just keeps on cranking but it doesnt start? if so have you checked fuel pressure and checked for spark?
Last edited by 89RsPower!; 02-06-2003 at 03:07 PM.
#21
while your checking the plug wires, coil, cap and rotor check out the ignition module. They crap out every now and then. Did you ever get the alt. checked out? It only takes 5 minutes at dummy zone to tell you if it is good or bad. If not pull it off and take your alt. battery and ignition module to get checked out. Might as well rule all of this out especially since this is easy stuff to pull off and put back on.
#23
ignition module is inside the distributor. You will have to remove the distrutor cap to see it. There are wires plugged into it and it looks like this
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/891-103.html
everything can be tested at autozone, pep boys, any locall store. Hope this helps out.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...A/891-103.html
everything can be tested at autozone, pep boys, any locall store. Hope this helps out.
#24
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Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
To narrow down the starting problem;
Pour a LITTLE bit of gas (or spray a little starting fluid) into the intake, then try to start it.
If it runs for a second or 2, you have a fuel supply problem.
If it dosen't even try to start, it's probably an ignition/electrical problem.
BTW, "turning over" and "cranking" are the same thing. It implies the eng is rotating cause the starter is turning it.
With a voltmeter, check the batt voltage with eng running.
Check the alternator output with eng running. (It's the big terminal on the back of the alt. Usually has a rubber boot over it)
Check the voltage at the fuse panel under the dash.
All the points should read abt the same.
If the fuse panel voltage is low, but the others are OK, check the wire on the starter solenoid that connects to the same post as the battery cable. Look for the wire being loose, coroded, or showing signs of being hot (melted or cracked insulation).
If you discover a difference between the alt output post voltage and battery voltage, you have a bad connection between the alt and battery.
Does the low batt light come on with the ignition in the "off" position, or with the key to "on" and eng not running?
Pour a LITTLE bit of gas (or spray a little starting fluid) into the intake, then try to start it.
If it runs for a second or 2, you have a fuel supply problem.
If it dosen't even try to start, it's probably an ignition/electrical problem.
BTW, "turning over" and "cranking" are the same thing. It implies the eng is rotating cause the starter is turning it.
With a voltmeter, check the batt voltage with eng running.
Check the alternator output with eng running. (It's the big terminal on the back of the alt. Usually has a rubber boot over it)
Check the voltage at the fuse panel under the dash.
All the points should read abt the same.
If the fuse panel voltage is low, but the others are OK, check the wire on the starter solenoid that connects to the same post as the battery cable. Look for the wire being loose, coroded, or showing signs of being hot (melted or cracked insulation).
If you discover a difference between the alt output post voltage and battery voltage, you have a bad connection between the alt and battery.
Does the low batt light come on with the ignition in the "off" position, or with the key to "on" and eng not running?
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