mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

Alright guys, i am in the middle of my 305 rebuild. i have the 416 heads with a crane blue racer cam. i couldn't tell you the specs on it though as my father lost the spec sheet and couldn't remember what the lift/duration was. i do know that it is the biggest available in the blue racer series. the question here is, what is your experience with harland-sharp roller rockers. i was considering the pro-form rockers but heard very bad things about them so i figured i would think about some other options. i don't have a whole lot of money and this motor will never see more than 5500-6000rpms. i would like to be able to switch these heads over to my higher performance 355 that i am building next winter. i will have bigger valves along with extensive porting and polishing before they go to the 355 though. so, what do ya'll think about harland-sharp?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

We've got 3 cars out of our shop running Harland Sharp's and no complaints yet. Very nice product, but on a lighter note, when we built the 355 I got now the car/drivetrain was and still is a rolling experiment. I installed the Proforms and never had any problems to date (going on second year) It's not a daily driver, but if the suns shinin and I have time it gets street time, plus it's been getting beat-on every weekend for TT or races, so it's held up under harsher condidtions than it'll ever see street driving. Not recommending if your your gonna put some real money into your motor, but they are not as bad as people think just because they're $60-120 cheaper than other brands. Want the best-get the Jessel rockers.

Vader

I've never used them, and probably wouldn't. I'm not a great fan of aluminum in a high stress application like rocker arms. Unless you're going all the way with shaft-mounted rockers, you might want to consider the stronger, lighter, more durable forged CrMo steel rockers. With good studs and girdles, they are just as reliable as shaft rockers. If you don't want to hassle with custom valve covers for girdles or shafts, want to keep your center-bolt covers, or don't have room because of spring cooler lines, the Comp Pro Magnums are a nice design.

ede

i'm with vader, i use comp steel rockers, stronger and lighter, beside being a better made piece.

Todds1987iroc

I used H.S. rockers in my new engine and really like them. I hear if you have a good oil system (high volume pump) then the Proform rocker will live. The reason i went with the H.S rocker is My buddy had them in his drag engine that made 915 hp and had a cam lift over .70" and not one valve train problem. His engine was a 508 BBC.

snakeskinner

my dad runs Harland Sharps on his 455 GTO and they work great. I have run Crane, TRW and have heard others that are noisy, Harland Sharp are high quality parts and not too pricy. As for aluminum's being weak, maybe under extremely high spring pressures but I have friends running them in 10 second cars with no problems. The steel rockers are quieter though

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

well, even with the 355, i will not be running a huge cam. i will use a comp cams nitrous cam. i don't plan on seeing anything faster than low 11's high 10's with the nitrous. i want to build a bbc for my faster setup down the road. i am building a BFGoodrich Traction Advantage car. which is based around the BFG Drag Radial and Stock Style suspension. with the big block i will be looking at running mid 8's, but that is way down the road.

Morley

ChromeMolly comp cams rollers or if you have the $$ Crower stainless steel rollers, lighter and stronger than alum.

ede

aluminum isn't weak in the sense that it'll break, but over time it'll fail because it fatuigues, that's a metallurgical fact that can not be avoided or over come. after 30,000 miles or so aluminum rockers will have reached their limits and need to be replaced.

RB83L69

I agree with ede and Vader, I will not use an aluminum moving part in my engines. I like not to find myself unexpectedly sitting by the side of the road with a car that suddenly stopped working. I run the Comp steel ones.

Aluminum ones are fine for track duty only. They will not last on teh street, reliably. Occasionally you'll run across people who have gotten a few tens of thousands of miles out of them; usually not. Usually you get "I'm going to put a set on" or "I put a set on last weekend" or at best "I have about 3000 miles on them, no problems so far".

I have a set of Comp steel roller-tip ones in my car right now that have over 100,000 miles on them, just for comparison's sake. I also have a set of the Comp stainless ones (the high-$$$ 100 -series ones, not the cheaper 1300 series ones, which IMHO are just fine anyway) with about 12,000 miles, never even had to re-adjust them after the motor was assembled on the stand.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it's track only so i think i will be ok. i have a minivan for everyday driving. let me tell ya, that thing is pimp too

IHI

iTrader: (1)

What's up soccer mom Anyways, going along with the not on a daily driver-our local tow truck guy had a fleet of Chevy's that he installed aluminum rockers on, and it was'nt 3 months later he put the stock ones back on. Said he kept having to readjust them every weekend towards the end.?? Anyways, like RB83L69, the only time I've ever seen my rockers was when we installed them on the engine stand and adjusted. Covers have never been off since-just the way I like it. But that leads me to believe I'm not making nearly the power I want, since the "real" motors get tore down between rounds. Anybody else want to step up with some more sponsorship money!!!!