Is this running lean, rich, or.....???
10-03-2003, 04:20 PM
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Is this running lean, rich, or.....???
Argh.
So I just came back from another AirCare failure, sigh.
Complete tuneup: cap, rotor, plugs, synthetic oil, leads, filters, everything.
It's GOTTA be in the carb, there is nothing else to mess with.
Actually, I haven't replaced the coil in 4 years.... this couldn't make a huge diff, could it? Plugs are gapped to a conservative 0.35 - I really, really wanted to pass. =)
Timing was set at 0 degrees, with 16deg mechanical advance brought in at 3,000RPM, 20deg by 3,500RPM but on the driving test they don't bring the revs up that high, more like to around 2,500RPM.
Here we go!
Driving Test:
---------------
HC : max: 199ppm Good reading: 42.50 Me: 59.0 PASS
NO: max: 1971ppm Good: 872.50 Me: 166.0 PASS
CO: max: 1.34% Good: 0.14% Me: 2.53% *FAIL*
Idle Test:
------------
HC : max: 348ppm Good: 76ppm Me: 65ppm PASS
CO: max: 4.0% Good: 0.25% Me: 1.80%, crappy, but PASS
A "Good" rating is apparently the average of the lowest 20% of emitters, or something along that line. So hitting around or lower than a good rating is... well.... great.
I am running dual cheap-cats, which are only a few months old. I failed HUGE last year, spent the $$ on the cats to get a waiver, and I still flunk. ARGH.
BTW: the cats absolutely STINK like sulphur upon decelleration.
Last year someone recommended I drill out the plug on the top of the carb and mess with the screw that controls primary fuel mixture, or whatever the hell it does. I ended up drilling it out but not bothering to adjust it, I just figured to hell with it, might as well put cats on it.
The carb is a stock NON-CC QJet from an '83 LG-4 motor. Canadian car, so no computer. I have not done anything to the carb besides replace the secondary hangers/rods, it has been left untouched otherwise.
Ok, I'm pretty sure I've covered EVERY base, but who knows.
Thanks, again.
So I just came back from another AirCare failure, sigh.
Complete tuneup: cap, rotor, plugs, synthetic oil, leads, filters, everything.
It's GOTTA be in the carb, there is nothing else to mess with.
Actually, I haven't replaced the coil in 4 years.... this couldn't make a huge diff, could it? Plugs are gapped to a conservative 0.35 - I really, really wanted to pass. =)
Timing was set at 0 degrees, with 16deg mechanical advance brought in at 3,000RPM, 20deg by 3,500RPM but on the driving test they don't bring the revs up that high, more like to around 2,500RPM.
Here we go!
Driving Test:
---------------
HC : max: 199ppm Good reading: 42.50 Me: 59.0 PASS
NO: max: 1971ppm Good: 872.50 Me: 166.0 PASS
CO: max: 1.34% Good: 0.14% Me: 2.53% *FAIL*
Idle Test:
------------
HC : max: 348ppm Good: 76ppm Me: 65ppm PASS
CO: max: 4.0% Good: 0.25% Me: 1.80%, crappy, but PASS
A "Good" rating is apparently the average of the lowest 20% of emitters, or something along that line. So hitting around or lower than a good rating is... well.... great.
I am running dual cheap-cats, which are only a few months old. I failed HUGE last year, spent the $$ on the cats to get a waiver, and I still flunk. ARGH.
BTW: the cats absolutely STINK like sulphur upon decelleration.
Last year someone recommended I drill out the plug on the top of the carb and mess with the screw that controls primary fuel mixture, or whatever the hell it does. I ended up drilling it out but not bothering to adjust it, I just figured to hell with it, might as well put cats on it.
The carb is a stock NON-CC QJet from an '83 LG-4 motor. Canadian car, so no computer. I have not done anything to the carb besides replace the secondary hangers/rods, it has been left untouched otherwise.
Ok, I'm pretty sure I've covered EVERY base, but who knows.
Thanks, again.
10-04-2003, 01:11 AM
#2
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Update: Sold Camaro, now own a "91" Corvette.
Engine: Corvette L98 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
High CO levels are usually due to not enough air entering the engine. It's going to be tough to pass emissions since your engine is highly modified. Your engine has to pass emission standards for a 1983 trans am with stock heads, intake and cam.
Anyways, the only thing you could do is to try and adjust the carb. With aftermarket intake, heads and cam it's going to be tough.
Anyways, the only thing you could do is to try and adjust the carb. With aftermarket intake, heads and cam it's going to be tough.
Last edited by GKK; 10-04-2003 at 01:23 AM.
10-04-2003, 01:46 AM
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More air into the engine? Say whaaaa?
The heads still are stock, well, not 305 stock, but smogger 350 stock. The cam doesn't have much more overlap than stock, and the performer intake is stock replacement. I kept the engine mild for several reasons, well, ok mostly financial =), but it shouldnt be this much of a prob...
The heads still are stock, well, not 305 stock, but smogger 350 stock. The cam doesn't have much more overlap than stock, and the performer intake is stock replacement. I kept the engine mild for several reasons, well, ok mostly financial =), but it shouldnt be this much of a prob...
10-04-2003, 12:03 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS Update: Sold Camaro, now own a "91" Corvette.
Engine: Corvette L98 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I don't know how they test in Canada but, in California the vehicle has to have all the stock emission equipment that the vehicle originally came with (egr valve, smog pump, exhaust manifold A.I.R tubes, catalytic converter, air cleaner assembly, pcv valve and original crankcase breather tube).
The best thing to do is have a reputable mechanic put your car on a diagnostic machine so he can see what the problem is and he can also tell if your engine will pass your countries emission standards. It'll be cheaper and easier in the long run than just guessing.
All I had on my Well Maintained 91 Camaro engine was an SLP Y-Pipe, high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust and I failed 3 times and spent over $300 before I finally passed and only because the test station let me rev the engine up right before the test.
The best thing to do is have a reputable mechanic put your car on a diagnostic machine so he can see what the problem is and he can also tell if your engine will pass your countries emission standards. It'll be cheaper and easier in the long run than just guessing.
All I had on my Well Maintained 91 Camaro engine was an SLP Y-Pipe, high flow cat and flowmaster exhaust and I failed 3 times and spent over $300 before I finally passed and only because the test station let me rev the engine up right before the test.
Last edited by GKK; 10-04-2003 at 12:06 PM.
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