manchesterbeast

so ya. I just put my car back together.
i got it running today. but its reving pretty high, not really ideling the way it should.

what im gonna do tomorrow is fine tune the timing with the lightgun. i havnt done that yet, and hopefully that should make it run better. other that that, you guys got any ideas?

1badrocZ

iTrader: (1)

yeah i just got mine back together too and i seem to have the same problem, it seems to be idleing a little high. I used a timing light and set the timing at 6* and its ideling around 900 rpms. Also i noticed that its not reving as fast as it should, kinda sputtering a bit if thats what u wanna call it. I installed crane 2040 cam, headers, and ported the intake, runners, and plenum along with new wires and such, so i was kind of expecting more power through out the rpms but if anything it seems to have less then before i tore it apart. Then agian i am just running headers and a y pipe so its hard to tell, I need to get it up to the muffler shop to have them put my cat and catback on since its not a direct bolt up. Any ideas?

manchesterbeast: setting the timing with a timing gun will def. improve the way your car runs, i thougt i had mine close until i put the timing light on it and it ran alot better but still not like it should.

ede

you should say what you've done abd what you have. setting the timing and idle would be a good start.

manchesterbeast

okay, well i couldnt get a timing light so i was just turning the distributor with my hand and timing it by ear. not much luck.

it was running really hot, and wanting to idle high. Im not sure if the carb is working right. When i pulled back on the throttle mechanism (ive circled in the picture) it slows down the engine to more of a normal idle. It doesnt seem to rest back all the way. (maybe the spring is to weak, but i had no problems with it before. is there a way to adjust this or set this?

ive never adjusted the carb before so im not sure what i should do. I dont wanna screw it up so i figured id ask here.

(sorry about the blurryness of the pic)

manchesterbeast

here are some more pics of my carb the way its set up now. I wasnt sure if i put everything together right. i shoulda taken more pics before i took it apart. i had to block some vacume lines and stuff.

anyway, if you see anything thats not the way it should be, please tell me.

manchesterbeast

another

manchesterbeast

the back of the carb

manchesterbeast

last carb pic.

manchesterbeast

one of the valves (EGR?) that comes out of the thermostat housing is broken. all the conectors busted off. so i sealed it. what kind of effect would that have?

manchesterbeast

sorry for all the pictures. i hope they dont load to slowly.

anyway, does anyone know what this hose is for? its source is the throttle thingy shown behind it. I dont know what its for or where its supposed to connect to...

Wilburwm

blurry picture, but might be the washer fluid line

87Formula4bbl

Manchester, it almost looks like you have a bolt stuck in the end of the float bowl vent line. Is this so? You want to have that open, it is not a vacuum line, its a breather line/vent for the float bowl. You can leave the hose on there, but take that bolt out.

87Formula4bbl

Whup, here we go.

87Formula4bbl

For the last pic you posted, that is the cruise control. If that is the long vacuum hose from the cruise control unit, it runs up along the steering and around the back of the engine bay, and comes up and connects to the fitting in the intake manifold, IIRC. There might be another branch-off that it connects too that you forgot to hook it up to, and you might have a big fat vacuum leak till you get it hooked up there. Good luck!

edit: That manifold fitting should be right behind the carb.

manchesterbeast

thanks for the info.

i knew i had this thing hooked up wrong. there is most definetly something wrong with how i got that carb set up. I'll free up that float line. thanks for pointing that out to me 87formula


by the way i tried to drive it up a hill today and a big honkin fire ball came right up the carb. good thing i had the hood off! i hope this didnt damage it. im soo glad it didnt catch fire.

87Formula4bbl

If it backfires up through the carb like that your gonna want to get a timing light on there. You'd be amazed at how much timing can affect performance if it's not set right.

Did you just rebuild the carb, or what did you do to the engine?

manchesterbeast

the car had been bagged on and neglected by its previous owner. the engine burnt oil pretty bad. after 4 months i noticed the compression was starting to get bad, till one day it just didnt wanna run at all. we had to jump start it to make it go, and it didnt sound like a happy engine.


lucky my brother had another 305 for me. so alls i did was get the old motor out. and put the new one in. (after painting it up a bit.) its a used engine but its in better shape than the other one. while i had it apart, i decided to put in a new clutch disk.

im still using the carb i got with the engine, i just cleaned it up a bit, and put it on my new engine.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

That last pic you circuled......isn't that the vacuum line that supposed to go to the charcaol canister???

I'd double check that one if I were you....along with all the other hoses. It shouldn't smoke like that.

Good luck with it though!!

manchesterbeast

what if i dont have a charcoal canister? should i just put a breather on the line?

87Formula4bbl

I figured if you didnt have it hooked up that you didnt have a charc. canister. Just leave it opened. Thats what I do and it's never leaked a drop of gas. If you drive down dusty roads all the time, I guess you could put a filter on it, but I woudlnt worry about it a whole lot.

manchesterbeast

Thanks again for your help. Everything makes more sence when theres a picture to look at. hehehe.

so today im gonna try to get a hold of a timing light, and unplug that float line.

another thing i was wondering about is those ERG valves. (i think thats what there called) they come out of the thermostat housing, painted black in your pic there.

how important are they, because ive seen older engines that dont even have a spot to put them in.

the reason im asking is because one of mine is broken. for now i have it blocked off with some tape and a rubber band. (i wouldnt want this thing to drip colant)

thanks again for your help 87formula, your engine looks really sweet by the way.

87Formula4bbl

Thanks, I've got a lot of time in it. The engine bay isnt as pretty as I want it, but I didnt have the funds to buy paint, so I'll repaint the bay next winter. Some other stuff also needs fixed like that windshield wiper motor on the firewall, but its about complete. That pic is of two weeks ago, its all together now.

Anyhow, you dont need those lines on the coolant housing blocked, I think all they (did) was when it was warmed up, allowed vacuum to flow and work the emissions system. I can't remember exactly its been about 2 years since they've been hooked up, I just never found an appropriate sized plug to replace that ugly thing sticking out. So unless you have vacuum going from the carb or engine to the housing, I'd just leave it unhooked like I did. Nothing will come out, like I said, I think it's a vacuum in/vacuum out type of thing. The other side is for a coolant sensor, but you prolby have that plugged in already.

87Formula4bbl

I was JUST going through a search for something on here and came across this pic, might help you out dunno, but here it is.

Also, in your first pic, it doesnt look like it but do you have a return spring on there, on the bottom of the linkage lever?? I dont see one. You can get one from autozone for couple bucks if not, and I would get one on there or your throttle will stick open on ya, and you'll have problems. Just didnt know if you were relying on the small spring around the throttle shaft on the opposite side to return to closed or if you actually have a return spring on there, its hard to tell.

manchesterbeast

hmmm, so judging by that pic, i think i had the vacume advance wrong. so acording to that, the line i have circled here is the one that goes to the vac advance on the distributer? is this right?

yup and i got the return spring there. i can understand how its hard to see, the picture quality isnt the greatest...

anyway i have the timing light, and from what ive been reading the normal setting for a stock 305 is 6 degrees. my question is how can i tell what its set to? the tab has 4 teeth and a round thing. is 0 degrees in the middle of the teeth?

manchesterbeast

i dunno if my tab is normal for fbody 305's. probably, but this engine was in a buick before. here are some pics of the tabs im talking about.

manchesterbeast

and a close up. so whats the round thing for? is it unrelated to timing? sorry about the bad picture quality.

87Formula4bbl

Yep, you set timing according to those marks. Should be marked -2 through 12 or something like that. Use a timing light, chalk the line on your balancer, and set the timing at 6*. Piece of cake.

manchesterbeast

hmm, i guess i need some sand paper or something to get it down to the bare metal, cause i cant see the numbers now. I'll clean it up a bit, they should be there.

right now the timing is set so that the line is in the middle of the teeth. its also running alot better now that i unplugged that float line. heh, thanks again for pointing that out.

now i know that im supposed to unplug the vacume advance when i set the timing. but where does the vacume advance go? i had it pluged into the back of the carb- i just wanna make sure thats right.

DanMac

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=timing+marks


someone did a diagram of the timing marks in this thread. I used it to set my timing and it worked pretty well.

Also, your hood should have a sticker on the underside of it stating the stock timing. Although many on the boards say it is 4-6*, when i checked the sticker it said 0*

I have mine set to 0 for now, and it runs great.

manchesterbeast

thanks DanMac, its good that u brought that to my attention, since my tab is so corroded i couldnt see the numbers.

anyway, i set the timing acording to those marks, t's running a bit better, but its still idleing kinda high. i took it for a few test runs and it seems to run pretty good when im driving it.

the only problem is that when i turn it off i hear a loud 'POP' out my muffler. like a back fire or something. it did this both times i test drove it...

- Does this mean i have to retard the timing a bit? or advance it a little?