A/C delete?
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 5.7L LT1
Transmission: 4L60
A/C delete?
I was just wondering if it is possible to get a smaller belt that will only drive the crank and alt. pulleys. Then rip all the a/c crap out? I've heard of thos mod before but don't know if you still drive the one pulley or just get a smaller belt? If so what kind of hp gain can be expected, I already have the march power and amp set on right now. Thanks!
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if my engine had one horsepower for everytime this topic has come up
...do a
you'll get all the info you need, but while I am at it, I dont know to much about lt1's except I think its a v belt setup so you could run one belt, or if you really want, you can get another to fill the spot. Just go to your local autoparts store and tell them what you need. This is saying you have a v belt setup, which I think you hinted when you asked can I run one belt.
...do a
you'll get all the info you need, but while I am at it, I dont know to much about lt1's except I think its a v belt setup so you could run one belt, or if you really want, you can get another to fill the spot. Just go to your local autoparts store and tell them what you need. This is saying you have a v belt setup, which I think you hinted when you asked can I run one belt.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
It will probably just be easier to get an AC delete pulley... heck GM even carries them! Basically from my understanding you just bolt the dummie pulley in place and put the belt back on. As for it saving hp by doing away with a pulley I doubt it. I have the AC delete made for the 3rd gens and the pulley is just mounted to a bolt on the bracket so it free spins.
Use the search and you'll find a ton of info on this subject. The 3rd gen and LT1 ac deletes have been covered a lot.
Here's a simple pic I grabbed off ebay.
Here check out this thread... this should at least get you started.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=260722
Use the search and you'll find a ton of info on this subject. The 3rd gen and LT1 ac deletes have been covered a lot.
Here's a simple pic I grabbed off ebay.
Here check out this thread... this should at least get you started.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=260722
Last edited by fireturd350; 10-04-2004 at 01:44 PM.
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not to start anything but i can't see it being easier. When you take off the a/c you can just take off the bracket, or if you really want to full attach the pw steering you could just cut the bracket or get one off a car that didn't have a/c. I just see it as pointless to get rid of the condenser to put in another pully, the whole idea of it is to clean the engine bay, you'll see no performance gain besides a .00000000001 increase in handleing by taking 40 lbs off the front of the car.
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Well I'm not positive exactly how the LT1 motors tensioners work that's why I said "probably".
I know the 3rd serpentine setups use the ac pulley to pinch the belt against to take the slack out. I've seen the auto tension pulley 180 degree out to pull instead of push to tighten the belt but that's more work too. I've also seen the belt pushed like stock but ran the opposite way around the water pump, which doesn't look right to me.
I guess it plans on what all you want to do, like most MOD projects. I think doing a simple delete pulley swap cleans up a lot of bay.
Here's an example of a 3rd gen swap.
Another thing to say for general knowledge is that autoparts places like to charge weird prices for belts too. When I did my underdrive pulley setup it was gonna be near 30 bucks for the new belt, so I price the belt that was 1/4" longer and it was only 17 bucks. Needless to say I went with the tad longer belt and used the tensioner to pull the slack out, worked fine for me.
I know the 3rd serpentine setups use the ac pulley to pinch the belt against to take the slack out. I've seen the auto tension pulley 180 degree out to pull instead of push to tighten the belt but that's more work too. I've also seen the belt pushed like stock but ran the opposite way around the water pump, which doesn't look right to me.
I guess it plans on what all you want to do, like most MOD projects. I think doing a simple delete pulley swap cleans up a lot of bay.
Here's an example of a 3rd gen swap.
Another thing to say for general knowledge is that autoparts places like to charge weird prices for belts too. When I did my underdrive pulley setup it was gonna be near 30 bucks for the new belt, so I price the belt that was 1/4" longer and it was only 17 bucks. Needless to say I went with the tad longer belt and used the tensioner to pull the slack out, worked fine for me.
Last edited by fireturd350; 10-04-2004 at 08:46 PM.
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