how do you remove an engine that wont turn over?
#1
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how do you remove an engine that wont turn over?
I have an 89 l98 tpi iroc that the engine froze up on. I cant turn it either direction at all. I am in the process of trying to pull it out but cant get to all of the flexplate to torque converter bolts. Am i supposed to pull the transmission out with it or is there some trick to get around it? Can i just pull the torque converter off and pull it out with the engine? What would you guys recommend to pull this thing out. What all do i have to do to get the transmission loose to get it out with the engine?
Thanks for any info or ideas that you guys have.
Mike
Thanks for any info or ideas that you guys have.
Mike
#2
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Just pull it. The torque converter will slide off the tranny input shaft.
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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 481.6
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
#3
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Car: yep
Engine: uhuh
Transmission: sure does
Keep in mind when using the above method, you will make a big mess when the conv clears the seal.
You will lose about 2 or 3 quarts of oil.
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1999 NBM Trans Am
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You will lose about 2 or 3 quarts of oil.
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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech
1999 NBM Trans Am
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1981 corvette
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R.I.P. #3
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#4
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Engineboy:
Keep in mind when using the above method, you will make a big mess when the conv clears the seal.
You will lose about 2 or 3 quarts of oil.
</font>
Keep in mind when using the above method, you will make a big mess when the conv clears the seal.
You will lose about 2 or 3 quarts of oil.
</font>
SSC
#5
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id be afraid to do it that way because to pull the converter out, you gotta come ahead at least 4-6 inches, and you cant do that until you are out of the motor mounts, which means you gotta lift up and ahead and jerk and wiggle. id be afraid of bending input shaft or cracking pump housing or something. id vote for pulling tranny with motor and then separating that way.
just my opinion, never actually done that one.
just my opinion, never actually done that one.
#6
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
You could also undo the tranny mount and crossmember and pull both out at the same time.
Just means you need to angle the engine up when you pull it.
Just means you need to angle the engine up when you pull it.
#7
Pull them both...it is a lot easier in the long run.
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Mike Metzler (Desert86Roc)[*] Webmaster: SpeedWorldMotorplex.com[*] Click Here For 86 IROC 305 TPI (406 build in progress) Page
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Mike Metzler (Desert86Roc)[*] Webmaster: SpeedWorldMotorplex.com[*] Click Here For 86 IROC 305 TPI (406 build in progress) Page
ET's @ 1250 ft[*] 14.28 @ 95.461 mph (uncorrected, NOS, no headers)[*] 15.365 @ 86.785 mph (uncorrected, headers, no NOS)
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#9
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I just did this, for my 2.8/2.8 swap. My friend melted his 2.8 together (oil pan cracked & he ran out of oil), and we swapped it with another $100 2.8.
We just pulled the engine, left the trans in the car. When we lifted the motor up, we also had the trans angled up a bit. The torque convertor popped off the trans input shaft, and sent the motor flying toward the radiator- good thing we removed it!
The pain was getting the TC off the flexplate. We had to use a Sawzall to cut the flexplate apart to get a wrench on the remaining "blocked" bolt. If the sawzall didn't work, we were going to drop the pan and pry out the crankshaft.
And yeah, trans fluid went everywhere... put a pan under the trans/engine area, and when you get the engine in the air, stuff a shop rag into the torque convertor to keep some of the fluid in there until you can drain it- otherwise, you'll leave a trail of trans fluid over the front of your car and down the driveway
Oh- brake cleaner does a good job of removing trans fluid (and other stuff) from concrete!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
We just pulled the engine, left the trans in the car. When we lifted the motor up, we also had the trans angled up a bit. The torque convertor popped off the trans input shaft, and sent the motor flying toward the radiator- good thing we removed it!
The pain was getting the TC off the flexplate. We had to use a Sawzall to cut the flexplate apart to get a wrench on the remaining "blocked" bolt. If the sawzall didn't work, we were going to drop the pan and pry out the crankshaft.
And yeah, trans fluid went everywhere... put a pan under the trans/engine area, and when you get the engine in the air, stuff a shop rag into the torque convertor to keep some of the fluid in there until you can drain it- otherwise, you'll leave a trail of trans fluid over the front of your car and down the driveway
Oh- brake cleaner does a good job of removing trans fluid (and other stuff) from concrete!
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
#10
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I agree witht the guys that say pull it as a unit. Separate the trans after it's out and sitting on the floor.
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1984 Z28 350
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