Help, formula died!
#1
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Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Help, formula died!
Here's the deal, on my 40mi trip home from work this morning, 5mi. from my house my 88 form. just died like I turned the key off! won't restart so the first thing I checked was the fuel pump operation and it's working fine. Next I checked for spark and have none. I checked the wiring going to the dist, coil, and everything else I could think of. I took the dist. cap off to check and make sure the rotor was turning and it was. Checked all the fuses in the fuse block and their good. All the conections on the battery are good.
Basicly, everything works but no spark, no codes, no start! I don't have VATS. In conclution, I figure I've got and ignition component that has failed.
Does anyone have another suggestion other that having the ign. module tested? I was driving 60mph and it just quit! before it did that I was thinking how good it was running (as usual) but a little better in the 30* weather. Any help or suggestions?
Thanks, Sqzbox
88 form 305 tbi w/ EST ign. and external coil everything in the dist is visually ok
Basicly, everything works but no spark, no codes, no start! I don't have VATS. In conclution, I figure I've got and ignition component that has failed.
Does anyone have another suggestion other that having the ign. module tested? I was driving 60mph and it just quit! before it did that I was thinking how good it was running (as usual) but a little better in the 30* weather. Any help or suggestions?
Thanks, Sqzbox
88 form 305 tbi w/ EST ign. and external coil everything in the dist is visually ok
#2
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
have your alternator checked. When you say that it just died as if you turned the key off, I'm assuming it didnt sputter and die, as if it were a fuel related problem. It just cut off all in one instance, like an electrical problem.
You checked all the fuses and fusible links, so next is to take the alternator and battery to auto parts store and have them check it. Have the alternator replaced with a GM unit if you have to.
You checked all the fuses and fusible links, so next is to take the alternator and battery to auto parts store and have them check it. Have the alternator replaced with a GM unit if you have to.
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
His charging system is fine.
I agree, it sounds ignition related. I have no other ideas other than the module.
I agree, it sounds ignition related. I have no other ideas other than the module.
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Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
I've had modules go bad in HEI dist. but nothing like this! It quit like someone just yanked the coil wire out of the cap. Problem is, I work 12hr shifts at night and I don't have the time to mess with it now, maybe monday. Couldn't get it up my drive with a car trailer (dam up hill gravel driveway!) to top that off, it's fixing to rain, snow, and then drop to 9* tomorrow night.
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Car: 1992 camaro rs
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4
only thing i can think of is the module if ur getting no spark....my 92 died like that i was driving and then it was like i turned the key off and wouldnt start....so i sprayed some ether down the intake and nothin so i went and got a module and vroom vroom...fired right up
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
sounds to me like the iginition coil fried on ya ......
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#8
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Car: 88 formula WS6
Engine: 305 Lo3
Transmission: 700-R4
Yup! Module died! Had it tested at A-zone, failed twice. Got a new one and had it running in 1/2 hr. It would have been quicker but right when I got the rear dist. cap screw threaded and started to run it down I thought, wouldn't it be funny if I forgot the...........Sh*t! did it again! Thanx sqzbox
Last edited by sqzbox; 12-21-2004 at 02:46 PM.
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Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Yes let me paste this one here too, copied from another thread:
Maybe I'll clean that up eventually and post it somewhere important. :shrug: The wells part number is the important thing.
Originally posted by Red Devil
Not regular clear dielectric grease, but the thermal white goop, right? ---(Wells part no. SL203) ---
The clear stuff, IIRC silicone dielectric grease, has been reported to have problems dissipating heat. IIRC dielectric grease isn't the *best* conductor either.
It keeps moisture out of connections when used on both spark plugs and regular low voltage connections. When you use DG in a connection and slide or bolt the connectors together you make a metal to metal contact that carries the current.
The DG seals out air and moisture at these contact points which prevents corrosion.
There has been rumblings on the Ford boards that Ford issued a memo to the service dept.s that dielectric grease is not to be used in place of thermal heatsink compound on the TFI modules. (Probably because of problems it's had... with heat).
If you used the clear stuff, I'd get the module tested.
Not regular clear dielectric grease, but the thermal white goop, right? ---(Wells part no. SL203) ---
The clear stuff, IIRC silicone dielectric grease, has been reported to have problems dissipating heat. IIRC dielectric grease isn't the *best* conductor either.
It keeps moisture out of connections when used on both spark plugs and regular low voltage connections. When you use DG in a connection and slide or bolt the connectors together you make a metal to metal contact that carries the current.
The DG seals out air and moisture at these contact points which prevents corrosion.
There has been rumblings on the Ford boards that Ford issued a memo to the service dept.s that dielectric grease is not to be used in place of thermal heatsink compound on the TFI modules. (Probably because of problems it's had... with heat).
If you used the clear stuff, I'd get the module tested.
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