Everything ignition new, getting fuel, still low idle and stalling
#1
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Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-56
Everything ignition new, getting fuel, still low idle and stalling
I just replaced the distributor, pickup coil, ignition module, and ignition coil. Plugs and wires are new.
To put the distributor in...I had someone crank the engine while my finger was on the #1 plug hole. When I felt a big puff of air I put the distributor in with the rotor facing that way. Hooked everything up and double checked the firing order. Was this ok?
I started her up....she was a little hesistant and then she started up fine. She will idle well for a couple of seconds and then the idle will drop and the car will die unless I give it some gas. As long as I'm giving the car gas it stays running. I also tried putting it in first with the clutch in, and it did the same thing. She is running a LITTLE smoother than before (before I changed everything) but not good enough obviously.
I still need to change the fuel filter (its old) and get the timing dead on. Is it possible that I put the distributor in wrong? Any other ideas?
Also, to give some history, she sat for a long time while I slowly put the T56 in. While I did that, I also took out the AIR system and put in a smog delete pump.....hope this doesnt have anything to do with it. For the cat, I kept the stock one on for now, and just clamped the AIR pipe down and put some JBWeld over it.
Any ideas? I really need to get this car on the road soon. Thanks a lot
To put the distributor in...I had someone crank the engine while my finger was on the #1 plug hole. When I felt a big puff of air I put the distributor in with the rotor facing that way. Hooked everything up and double checked the firing order. Was this ok?
I started her up....she was a little hesistant and then she started up fine. She will idle well for a couple of seconds and then the idle will drop and the car will die unless I give it some gas. As long as I'm giving the car gas it stays running. I also tried putting it in first with the clutch in, and it did the same thing. She is running a LITTLE smoother than before (before I changed everything) but not good enough obviously.
I still need to change the fuel filter (its old) and get the timing dead on. Is it possible that I put the distributor in wrong? Any other ideas?
Also, to give some history, she sat for a long time while I slowly put the T56 in. While I did that, I also took out the AIR system and put in a smog delete pump.....hope this doesnt have anything to do with it. For the cat, I kept the stock one on for now, and just clamped the AIR pipe down and put some JBWeld over it.
Any ideas? I really need to get this car on the road soon. Thanks a lot
#2
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Your basetiming may still be off...once you feel the "puff", you then need to keep going until the piston is at the top of the bore (assuming the balancer hasn't slipped, continue to bump the engine until the timing mark is at "0" on the tab.
Then stab...
But, regardless, if you're able to start it and get it running, yo're close, so go ahead and diconnect the EST bypass and set timing to "0" (stock spec's) and see how she runs....after you reconenct the EST bypass, ofcourse
Then stab...
But, regardless, if you're able to start it and get it running, yo're close, so go ahead and diconnect the EST bypass and set timing to "0" (stock spec's) and see how she runs....after you reconenct the EST bypass, ofcourse
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 350 but it's torn down right now.
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: I'm working on it,lol.
If 8mike9's advice doesn't help, double check the spark plug wire routing and the wires themselves. Check your vacuum lines too. If everything checks out and you still have a problem, you might want to flip the Distributor 180 degrees and try again.
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
I'm pretty sure that if the distributor were 180 degrees out it wouldnt even start? Am I wrong? I'd like to know since I have a similar problem
#5
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Don't see how you can start it 180, 270 or 90 off...maybe someone who knows will be able to explain the new firing sequence created.
#6
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Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-56
Well after all the changes...and changing the fuel filter...it runs a lot smoother now...but it still stalls after a couple seconds...I have about a quarter tank of gas in the tank that I put some fuel cleaner in...should I just completely drain that and put new gas in...or just pour some new gas in and let it mix?
What are symptoms of bad gas? The car runs and sounds GREAT when I put my foot on the gas (running at probably about 2k) but as soon as I let off the gas it dies. And the exhaust was smelling kinda funky as well.
What are symptoms of bad gas? The car runs and sounds GREAT when I put my foot on the gas (running at probably about 2k) but as soon as I let off the gas it dies. And the exhaust was smelling kinda funky as well.
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#9
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You need to do that first, set the timing...the fume/stik you smell could be due to unburnt fuel being expelled...symptom of retarded timinng...anyways, start with setting the timing to"0" and see whats cookin'
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
8Mike9 is correct on all accounts. You need to set the base timing whenever the distributor is pulled. There is no such thing as being 180° or a tooth off so you don't have to worry about that.
Unplug EST
Set timing
Plug EST back in
Unplug ECM lead or battery to reset SES code
Unplug EST
Set timing
Plug EST back in
Unplug ECM lead or battery to reset SES code
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