Snake Oiler

I've got what sounds like a loose rocker tick at idle,and as I bring the rpm's up, I'm getting a soft hollow knocking sound.

I've pulled the valve covers and checked the studs,lash and oil flow,all seems ok. Oil pressure is great(35-40psi warm/idle 60+ off idle) I first thought flex plate so I was going to do a shift kit anyway I pulled the trans put in a new sfi plate and new converter. Still there.

The tick is constant. The knock I can't hear at idle. Bring up the rpm's it's there.It dosn't really get louder but does increase with speed,parked or driving.

Thinking rod/main bearing???

Any tips would be very much appreciated.

Charman234581

That sounds like what it might be. It will probably get progressively worse as you drive it. Good luck.

Snake Oiler

That's what I'm afraid of. Guess we'll find out this week when I yank it out . Stopped driving as soon as I heard it.Hopefully the damage is minimal.

84z28350

My first guess when the knock gets louder with RPMs is a rod/main bearing. May as well replace them as you can get a complete set for around $50.

Check your clearances you may need to go with some bigger bearings though.

sellmanb

Who wants to bet it's an exhaust leaked coupled by pinging caused by the exhaust leak?

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Whoooaa now...., just because a knock becomes prevalent, does not necessarily mean it's a bearing. Does the knock have a steady rhythm, or is it sporadic? Does it sound metallic? It could be somewhere in you're ignition.

As for the ticking, it's definitely valve lash.... as that's the by-product of such a heavy foot.

matt_82transam

man we are having the same bad luck

84taowner

Yep, I agree, I had a slight tick that I thought was a lifter on a new motor and ended up being a exhaust leak at the header. My tick however, only was noticable when the car was first started and went away after the car was warmed, I guess the gasket swells and seals the leak. I havent fixed it yet!

Snake Oiler

Got it out and apart today

#1 rod bearing shifted and copper.2 other rods copper,but not shifted.

mains all were fine.

Cylinders all looked fine.
Gonna pull the cam tomorrow and check those bearings.

I bought this short block used,('93) and was in similar shape when I took it apart then(almost a year ago).

I had the block reworked,crank redone,rods checked etc...

Now ,3500 miles later, i'm back where I started.

Starting to wonder if there is a problem with the crank and/or the oil passages.

sellmanb

it is possible that the crank is out of round, or the wrong rod caps went back on, or an oil hole is plugged up.

Basically, if you find that there's metal missing, then it's gone somewhere and I wouldnt expect your oil filter to catch it.

Expect it to be circulating in the motor still. I'd take it all apart and have it hot tanked. Then have it align bored, and make sure that the crank is still in-round.

Snake Oiler

When I had the machine work done, they(supposedly) checked that and balanced the rotating assembly with the flex plate and dampner. I would think they would have found any problems then. Thinking bout woriking some OT and just getting a new short block. Or maybe a new crank and rods. Still PO'd about this whole thing.

Thought I read another thread where they said somethig about defective(quality control) bearings. Don't remember what brand though.?

1meanGTA

383 time

lol sorry bout your luck man. i had similar sounds but turned out to just be a blown header gasket.

sellmanb

the quality control thing was Clevite.


Use Federal Mogul if in doubt

Snake Oiler

Clevites are what I put in. Wonder if I got a bad set?Now I have to decide what to do.Maybe a new crank and rods would be the easiest?Or should I have the old ond reground to 20 under and the rods checked?

sellmanb

If it only started to knock and tick, then I would just have everything inspected. There's a possibility that nothing other than the bearings got hurt.

To be safe you should take the motor out (I know, a pain ) and dissassemble it. Take all pieces you can to the machine shop for hot tank and magnafluxing just incase.

Then have the crank inspected, and make sure to put in new cam bearings too.

If you only need it ground on one or two lobes then it may be a cheaper "rebuild" than you think. You could probably get away with leaving the rods and pistons in their bores too so you dont have to rehone them.

Probably looking at around 400 dollars when it's all said and done (assuming you dont need new rods and crank)