Valve Guide Seals
10-31-2005, 05:54 PM
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Valve Guide Seals
I've got a 1990 IROC-Z w/5.0. I believe the valve guide seals are leaking. Can they be replaced without removing the heads? If so, is it a very difficult job?
The engine only has 75000 miles and I don't think it is in need of a rebuild yet.
Thanks
The engine only has 75000 miles and I don't think it is in need of a rebuild yet.
Thanks
10-31-2005, 06:03 PM
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Car: 88 T/A
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
Welcome to the boards!
If the car smokes on startup only, it's most likely the seals. Apparently, it's not a real tough job, have to do mine soon too.
I plan to rent a compressor, and get the fitting that goes into the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling into the bores while I change the seals. A search will yeild more info...
If the car smokes on startup only, it's most likely the seals. Apparently, it's not a real tough job, have to do mine soon too.
I plan to rent a compressor, and get the fitting that goes into the spark plug hole to keep the valves from falling into the bores while I change the seals. A search will yeild more info...
11-01-2005, 10:03 AM
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Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Vader
The alternative to a compressor and sparl plug hole adapter is to use the rope trick (search).
The alternative to a compressor and sparl plug hole adapter is to use the rope trick (search).
Use the rope trick. It is far easier and faster to get the job done than with the compressor method. With the motor in the car you are space limited and getting an air adapter threaded into the head with an air line in place is nearly impossible. I didn't have enough swear words in my vocabulary to properly finish a seal job with the air compressor.
11-01-2005, 11:07 AM
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Car: 1986 Camaro Z28
Engine: 400
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt Posi 3.73
There is a large thread about the do's and don'ts of replacing your valve seals. You should look for it as I am to lazy 
. Other than that, I replaced mine, and thought it wasn't too bad. The toughest part was the fact that you don't have much room to work. Just pull the old ones off put the new ones on, using the little plastic sleeve to go over the stem to prevent any damage to the new ones. Then you have to readjust the lash in your pushrods. Again there is a nice big thread on how to do that. Just search for valve lash.
Make sure if you use a compressor, and your car is a manual transmission, that you LEAVE IT OUT OF GEAR .
-Greg
. Other than that, I replaced mine, and thought it wasn't too bad. The toughest part was the fact that you don't have much room to work. Just pull the old ones off put the new ones on, using the little plastic sleeve to go over the stem to prevent any damage to the new ones. Then you have to readjust the lash in your pushrods. Again there is a nice big thread on how to do that. Just search for valve lash.Make sure if you use a compressor, and your car is a manual transmission, that you LEAVE IT OUT OF GEAR .
-Greg
11-01-2005, 12:05 PM
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Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 350,Dart Heads,Weiand In,Roller Cam
Transmission: 2400-Stall, 700R4 w/ Kit
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.42 disc (I wish)
Smokes always means rings, smokes when low MAP then intake seals (High RPM closed Throttle).
11-12-2005, 10:37 PM
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Car: 1986 iroc z
Engine: vortec 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 moser 12 bolt true trac
mine was smoking everywhere and come to find out valve stem oil seals were very dry, brittle, and some not even there.
hardest part of the job is removing spark plugs.
hardest part of the job is removing spark plugs.
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