Charging problem
02-28-2006, 08:03 PM
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Charging problem
I have an 85 Camaro Z28 and it set for a couple of years before I got it. I swapped out the old engine and tranny and wiring harness and replaced it with the 305 TPI out of my other camaro.
The alternator was charging at that point. Now if you test the voltage at the back of the alternator sometimes it reads 16 volts and other times it reads .6 volts. Voltage at the battery is about 12.5 then starts draining as the car runs. Could this be caused by a short? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The alternator was charging at that point. Now if you test the voltage at the back of the alternator sometimes it reads 16 volts and other times it reads .6 volts. Voltage at the battery is about 12.5 then starts draining as the car runs. Could this be caused by a short? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by kevinscamaro23; 03-01-2006 at 07:59 PM.
02-28-2006, 08:24 PM
#2
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
No it is not a short.
Does the "Choke" light light up when you turn the key on with the engine not running?
Does the "Choke" light light up when you turn the key on with the engine not running?
03-12-2006, 08:15 AM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
ALTERNATIVE IDEA
<CENTER><B>
You have a bad connection from the output of
the alternator to the battery.
This is the heavier<font color=red> red </font>wire.
</FONT>
</B><FONT COLOR=F3399><H5>
“If people drove any slower they’d be going backwards”</FONT>
<FONT COLOR=FF66FF>NINÅ</H5></FONT>
<P>
<TABLE BORDER=9 CELLPADDING=8>
<TD BGCOLOR=black>
<B><H3><CENTER>REFUSE
TO
LOSE<p></TABLE></CENTER>
You have a bad connection from the output of
the alternator to the battery.
This is the heavier<font color=red> red </font>wire.
</FONT>
</B><FONT COLOR=F3399><H5>
“If people drove any slower they’d be going backwards”</FONT>
<FONT COLOR=FF66FF>NINÅ</H5></FONT>
<P>
<TABLE BORDER=9 CELLPADDING=8>
<TD BGCOLOR=black>
<B><H3><CENTER>REFUSE
TO
LOSE<p></TABLE></CENTER>
03-12-2006, 08:31 AM
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Remove the belt and turn the generator by hand,if there is any bad sounds or obvious play in the bearings it`s time to buy a new one.
Also check the voltage,does it go down if you rev the motor?
Also check the voltage,does it go down if you rev the motor?
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03-12-2006, 10:11 AM
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
IT'S OBVIOUS
Originally posted by kevinscamaro23 It turns smooth with no noise.
<CENTER><B>
Knew that.
That’s why I didn’t mention it.
Go fix that bad connection
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</B><FONT COLOR=F3399><H5>
“If people drove any slower they’d be going backwards”</FONT>
<FONT COLOR=FF66FF>NINÅ</H5></FONT>
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03-12-2006, 12:23 PM
#9
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
could also be the voltage regulator inside on it's way out ( thats why the fluxuation)
Either possibly rebuild it ( very easy to do ) .Or chase down that possible bad wire suggested above.
Either possibly rebuild it ( very easy to do ) .Or chase down that possible bad wire suggested above.
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