manchesterbeast

Well I just put in my new rebuilt transmission and now I seem to be having problems with the engine. It seems like one problem after another with this car.

It idles really low, thats something I dont mind too much, but I was driving it this morning and noticed that it would stall at all the intersections. And was having trouble starting. It wouldnt start unless I was giving it throttle as im turning the started. So what I did was advance the timing a little bit and that seemed to make it a bit better. but its still having problems. Usually when its warm I dont have to give it any gas to start it, but it seems to not want to start unless im giving it gas while turning it over. Then when its idleing low, if i suddenly punch the gas a little it'll rev up and then rev down to 0 and stall.

It's a carbed 350 attached to a T5, does anybody have any ideas? The carb was for a 305 so it might be jetted a little less than whats usual for a 350. Should I try to adjust the idle mixture screws? advance the timing some more? It has an electric choke, could that be effecting it at all?

manchesterbeast

Ok I went back and advanced the timing further.

It's set at 10 degrees advanced and seems to run pretty good there.

The idle is just a touch under 500 RPM. It's not stalling very much and seems to be pretty drivable, but i did make it stall a few times playing with the throttle in my driveway.

it seems if i tap the gas quick and then let off, it revs up a little, rpm goes right down and then stalls.

Id like to know why it does this.

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

My 700r4 did this when I put the shift kit in. Only for a few days, then it broke in and hasn't done it since. Just wait it out a little longer and see if it breaks in for ya.

manchesterbeast

good call.

at first i kinda thought the new tranny wouldnt effect the engines running much. I figure a standard shouldnt have as much influence over the idle the way an automatic can.

but the more i think about the more it makes sence.

before the rebuild my t5 was really sloppy. the input shaft had lots of play. After the rebuild it was very tight. no play at all and the input shaft was alot harder to turn as well. So i figure the extra stiffness means the engine has to work harder.

I'll give it a while and see how it breaks in.
thanks guitar.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

It's possible that something happened when the t-5 was installed, or you could be experiencing symptoms of a completely new problem. Either way, when you adjusted your timing or idle, the condition improved. This leads me to believe that this is a problem that isn't going to go away. Start with a few of these checks.

1. Make sure your idle speed is where it should be.
2. Replace the fuel filter and tune up the motor.
3. Check the choke to make sure it isn't sticking or improperly adjusted.
4. Check for vacuum leaks at the carb, intake ect.
5. If none of these turn out to be your problem, then you might have an
emissions problem. They will usually throw a code which you can retrieve
by using bending a paperclip into the shape of a U and placing it between
the A/B terminals on your ALDL.

manchesterbeast

So where is the idle supposed to be anyway? cause mine is just a little under 500rpm. It seems alright...

and I was kinda thinking of the choke, I have an electric one. how do I check it? (do I just look at the carb when its warm and see if its holding the flap down?)

As far as emissions go, I simplified my engine bay quite a bit. currently I have a 350 out of a '78 c20 van. I also have headers. But theres no smog pump or excess sensors or anything. It's pretty basic.

I've never checked for codes before but I do have the little plug in for it under my dash.

Anyway, the engine had a recent tune up right before the trans died on me, it was running really good. And I didnt do anything to it while the transmission was out.

manchesterbeast

One thing I realised i didnt do was grease the pilot bushing....

I left the bellhousing and clutch stuff all attached to the engine. I dont have the alignment tool so I didnt want to take the clutch apart.

maybe I shoulda greased the end of the input shaft before I put the tranny in. do you think that could cause it to stall in neutral?

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

If it's seizing a bit, yeah. The shaft and bearing are both supposed to receive a coat of high temperature grease before being put back into service. I believe you should probably pull it back out and inspect the shaft and bearing. If they're okay, put the grease on both and put it back together and see if that fixes the problem. Don't drive it until you do.

manchesterbeast

dont drive it? damn I've been driving it lots. It hasnt been stalling on me or anything either. Im reluctant to take it apart again after getting it back together.

What are the common symptoms of a bad or seized pilot bushing?

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Noisy in neutral or other gears, popping out of high gear, difficulty in engaging gears and oil leakage are some noticeable symptoms. There's probably more, but I'm not too up on manual transmissions.