kjvail1204

iTrader: (4)

Ok i have a junk yard engine. I bought it about two years ago. Well i have been trying to find the ID number for the block so i know when it was made, and all the other little things that come with it, but I jsut found the remanufactured tag on it, and the top has been milled I got the number off the back Driver side but that only tells me the ci.s and i got the number off the passanger side back, im trying to find the ID number usually its behind on the Passanger front or right about timing chain, well mine is smooth where the number shoudl be, so is there someplace i else i can find it without tearing it all apart. Help i just want a general idea.
I have no idea whats in it so i want to repalce the inside with stuff i know, but i dont want to buy the wrong stuff.

Thanks in advance.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

All that those numbers on the deck tell you, is what it was before it was "rebuilt".

Now that it's been "rebuilt", then even if they were still there, they are totally unrelated in any way to anything that's inside it.

If you know the CID, then you know all that there is to know about what's inside that block, that you can tell from outside it.

In other words, it's the wrong question to ask. Even if you got the answer, it wouldn't match what you've actually got.

kjvail1204

iTrader: (4)

so i guess my best bet is to just go ahead and replace everything so that i know for sure whats in there.

AlkyIROC

If the block has been decked then the stamped in numbers on the pad at the right front of the block in front of the head will have been machined off. Since it's a reman engine, those numbers won't mean much now since internal parts will determine what the engine is not what it was.

The best you can do is get the casting number at the left rear of the block to determine what bore the block is and what years they used that casting. There are year codes cast into the block but they're not that accurate. 01 could mean 1971, 1981 etc. Looking at other characteristics of the block could narrow down the exact year.

Pulling the valve covers, you can see the head casting numbers. Being a reman engine, they may not match the year of the block.

Exactly what were you planning on replacing? Many parts on a SBC are interchangable from 1955 to the end of the perimeter valve cover engine years. There have been some changes over the years such as a one piece rear main seal but basically, they're all the same.

kjvail1204

iTrader: (4)

Well like i stated i got it froma junk yard the guy told me i was built up but i dont know what the previous owner put in it or what.

I was thinking
CAM
Pistons
New Heads

Im jsut not sure what i have to know before doing this

1. Should i do New Crank, push rods, connecting rods
2. What type of cam should i get (street/strip) what duration
3. Flat, dome, or dish pistions
4. Hypereutectic or Forged
5. aluminum or cast heads, what CC
6. what stall for a stock 700r4
7. new rocker arms or all knew heads

I dont know enough about this kind of stuff, i know the ins and outs of the basic operation but i dont think that this is something i should do trial and error. I want a good strong engine. I dont want to do all this cosmetic stuff and then through a rod. I want it the power plant strong i have no idea how many miles are on it now. I want to be able to go ahead with the body work knowing that i wont have to pull the engine in 6 months.

So any and all info you can give me, IE, sizes, brand names, is summit a good brand they have the some of the same stats as the brand name but cheeper. Cost isnt a big deal but i dont know if i wanna spend all that money for one thing when i can get good products for less money verus one product for a large amount.

kjvail1204

iTrader: (4)

I know there are people out there that have favorites i just want the best quailty for my buck i know you get what you pay for but i have also paided for the name (brand name) and gotten **** so anyone at all

AlkyIROC

Some people get too hung up on brand names. They just have to have that brand name part on they're car when a Summit or Jegs brand will do just the same. I'm at a power level where I "need" those brand name parts. Nothing in my engine, including the block, is a factory part.

The best thing you can do is take the engine to a machine shop and let them have a look at it. the reman engine won't have any performance parts in it unless the previous owner did some changes. The cam will be a stock grind. The pistons will be cast. The heads will probably be low compression smogger heads.

As for your parts requests

1: Probably not if the factory parts are ok. Pushrods will depend on heads and cam grind. Although stock length will probably be fine, the lengths should be checked with the valve train geometry.
2: Depends on where you want the engine's operating range to be. Having a cam that starts to build power at 3500 rpm and you only get into that range during brief WOT runs isn't worth it.
3: Depends on the combustion chamber size of the heads and what compression ratio you want. Too high and you're paying for premium pump gas all the time.
4: A street engine doesn't need forged pistons unless you have a huge power adder.
5: Aluminum heads are cheap compared to years ago.
6: The tranny doesn't care about the stall. The stall speed will depend on cam grind plus other factors such as vehicle weight and gear ratio in the diff.
7: Roller rockers will reduce valve train friction. You won't need to buy high end CompCams Pro Magnum rockers but any brand of aluminum roller rocker will do fine for less money.

You can spend a little or a lot of money on an engine but you could also dig a bigger hole. Building a high HP engine means the rest of the driveline needs to be upgraded. Keeping it relativly stock with only mild upgrades can still make a strong engine that can be reliable as a daily driver and have fun racing.

kjvail1204

iTrader: (4)

Well thats what i want, im looking for a D to D and then a stop light and occasional strip runner.

So i can use summit and it will be jsut fine. I just dont want to have ti fall all apart on me in a few months or like two years, i have no idea on how many miles of even what quaility part are in there.

Id rather know whats in there, and that it is new instead of thinking its new and then POW gotta rebuild or and all new block. Or should i jsut look at waiting and building my own block, Just do go from the ground up on another motor, and that way ill have just what i want. I jsut want to do some things to this one to see if i want to stay 350 or if i want to go up to a 383. I know 350 is good and i can do alot, once i do rear end, i think after all i have heard im just going to build one. Ill do some mods to this one that i can bolt on to the new engine. That way i know its NEW and i know whats in it or on it.
thanks so much guys, i jsut wasnt sure if i needed all EGALE or Molden or if summit was just as good.