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383 Idles like a unbalanced washing machine

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Old 10-21-2006, 05:12 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 383SR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
383 Idles like a unbalanced washing machine

Ive been having some problems with my 383's idle, It revs fine but at idle its really, really rough. The cam, a comp xe274, isn't that big and ive checked and rechecked timing and plug wires, It seems to have power, but maybe not quite what i was expecting. Im starting to think maybe valves are set to tight, as it was my first time doing them. Either way im out of ideas.
Thanks guys, basic motor specs are below

Stealthram
Vortec Heads
comp xe274
Old 10-21-2006, 05:30 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I'd bet any money one or more cylinders aren't firing, for whatever reason.
Clamp your timing light onto each plug wire, one at a time, while idling, and make sure all get the light blinking. Also check when it's dark, to see if you're getting any visible arcing to the block or anything. Also check each plug to see if any are carboned up, while the rest are clean.

How did you setup the FI? pretty confident in the timing/tune setup?

Not quite the power you're expecting eh? Want to baseline it?
Old 10-21-2006, 10:47 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Did this just start happening or is this a new engine running like that?

383 stroker. Best guess. 400 externally balanced crank to make a 383 and it doesn't have an externally balanced dampener and flexplate/flywheel or an aftermarket internally balanced stroker crank that does have an externally balanced dampener and flexplate/flywheel on it.

Rotating assembly itself hasn't been balanced. Aftermarket pistons, rods, etc need to be weighed to properly balance the crankshaft. This has nothing to do with the crankshaft being internally or externally balanced.

I would go with a dead hole first.
Old 10-23-2006, 05:58 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 383SR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I had the rotating assembly balanced so that shouldnt be an issue, but ill definatley try the timing light on all the wires

Not quite the power you're expecting eh? Want to baseline it?
hehe yea once the motors broken in definately
Old 10-23-2006, 06:01 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Better hurry, I think i'm going to have to park mine at the next snowfall.
Old 10-24-2006, 11:20 AM
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Car: 84 Z28HO
Engine: 350 summit block
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt
I'de check for a vacuum leak. I had the exact same type of symptom with my last engine, idled like crap, would barely run on it's own until I got punchy on the gas. I ended up re-adjusting the valves, replaced the carb, replaced the intake and replaced the cam.....only to find out it was a tear in a vacuum line causing all my grief. Countless hours of messing around for a 1 minute fix. Always start with the basics.

Also, when you set the valves, I assume you did them in the proper order with the engine off? After the initial pintle depth has been achieved, they should be reset with the engine running while using a stethiscope (very messy, btw).

Last edited by Zed'er; 10-24-2006 at 11:23 AM.
Old 10-29-2006, 09:39 PM
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Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: 383SR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
well i found something today, I was boosting my gf's pos and it was the only time recently ive been under the hood of my car at night and i noticed the back passenger plug was arcing all over from the porcelain and to the block.
Havent had a chance to change that out yet though because of the wonderful weather, so hopefully that should fix the problem
thanks
Old 10-30-2006, 09:48 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
That'd do it alright...
Oh, you don't thoroughly enjoy working on your car while it's -20*C? huh, I thought we all liked that
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