12SecondTA

I dont understand...

The engine is barely 3k miles old. already has blow-by, and now i think valve seal problems...

I'm going to rering the block in a few weeks, blow-by is zero tolerance to me... Not so sure if its the valve seals so i'll explain...

When the engine is hot, and i start up, a puff of blue smoke. If cold, no smoke at all... Very weird just at that...

The heads were fully done when the engine was built. Umbrella valve seals, my valves had no grouve for the o-rings.

The engine has over heated maybe three times since the build.
-first, was cooling fan switch took a dumb, caught it very quickly.
-second, cool fan relay took a dumb.
-third, Radior Sprouted a small leak, i filled her up and drove home, and at the end of my road(100ft from the house) i think the engine got steam locked. when the head burns off the water and builds presure to where new water stays away...

Never did the guage totally pin, and it will pin if you ground it...

I'm not thinking the head was warped, but maybe a small possibility... Hopefully its just the rings still...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

There's your problem, right there.

Put "positive" ones on it. I prefer the Teflon ones such as you can get from Comp and Crane and elsewhere. They require that the guides be machined to precisely .501" or .531", depending on which particular seals you get. I'd recommend the .530" seals, that require the guides to be .531". Like these.

12SecondTA

alright.... basically heres what i have, and how it was described,



If i ordered those new seals, do you think they would have to still be machined? i'm pretty sure they were machined previously...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Nowhere in all of that ad copy does it say what the valve guide diameter is. They blather on and on about the Eaton valves; but say nothing at all about any machine work to the heads (or what the heads themselves are, for that matter; doesn't even say that).

So, no only do I not "think", since it only gets me in trouble, even on those rare occasions where something happens when I try, but there's not any information to "think" about.

Mic em. It's the only way to know.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

do a search on the forum for valve seals. I know apeiron posted a step by step with pictures, when he redid some lately. Federal mogul positive seals that fit on stock guide bosses. $30 investment. That'll cure your fire up oil problem.
did you check to see if you're losing compression (rings?) yet?

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

i hate those umbrella seals, they flat out suck, & without the O-rings they really suck.
i refuse to put any head that has them on any motor i build. this is 2006, not 1965. the way they talk about those seals, it sounds like that add is from 30+ years ago.
like has been said, get the right positive seals & never look back.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Ahh, the good ol' days. Back when cars were made to burn oil. It was totally normal to add oil at every gasoline fill up. Ah, they just don't make 'em like they used to right? (thank goodness eh?)

12SecondTA

lol....

i did check compression, but not leak down... compression was perfect, as i'd expect. all 8 had plenty of compression....

the block is going to be removed in a couple weeks... Ready for a rering, new cam, new rear end(12 bolt) and a couple other goodies...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If the compression is good, why are you re-ringing it?

Yes there are other valve seals, that may fit without machining; that depends on the size of the guides you have, and also the springs you have. Double springs with a damper may have too small ID to accomodate them though.

Only way to know is to bust out the mic.

12SecondTA

blowby....

my dynmaic compression(psi) is above OEM, maybe becuase i built a 10.2:1 CR motor... but... I just didn't do a leakdown test. I think it would fail...

Either way, it was running pig rich due to a clogged air bleed, and well, i may have gas washed a wall or two... need to fix it...