devilfish

I found this "instructions" for a GM crate engine.
http://paceperformance.com/index.asp...=Custom&ID=636
It sounds reasonable for break-in my new build 355.
But then I read "... Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.".
Damn, that will mean, no dyno tuning untill next summer?!

Is this the way YOu did with your new build engine?

Thanks

86camaro383

iTrader: (3)

Many people have different views on this. Some people start the engine up, let it run for 15-20 at minutes at 2500 RPM to break in the cam(flat tappet), tune the carb, check timing shut it off, and change the oil, check valve lash, and its broken in.

Thats similiar to the way we do it at work, except we go up to the red line in 500 RPM incriments. In other words, idle to 1500 let it go back to idle, idle, 2000RPM, back to idle, ETC. Thats on a engine dyno though.

Some people do the 500 mile thing. I guess thats just playing it safe and sorry. Many of GMS crate engines are made in mexico, so maybe they are just playing it safe.

Token

When I built my engine, which is a roller motor, I used 10w40 VR1 race oil because I guess it's supposed to be awesome for breakins. I ran it for about 3 minutes- but after discovering an intake gasket leak, I decided to drain it out. I had some Rotella 15w40 and figured I'd use that to finish the break-in. I had it run for about 10 minutes total, and then put the engine in the car. I drove it for maybe a total of 25 miles before changing it out for Mobil 1 10w30. I changed the filter after maybe 500 miles two or three times. By this time I figured I'd switch to Mobil1 5w40 (idk why, no reason really) and that's been in there ever since.

Nevermind, this post really was of no use

AlkyIROC

The method of 500 miles with no high rpm or hard driving has been around for a long time. It's a prefered way to do the break in for an engine expected to live 100,000+ miles. Change the oil and filter then drive it like you normally would.

My race car engine after it's built, is run up for about 1/2 hour at different rpms to check for leaks, set timing and stuff like that. There is no break in time for a roller cam. After that, fix any leaks etc that show up, change the oil and filter and go racing. I wouldn't think twice about not putting it on a dyno after the short break in time. By then, the rings have already seated and it's ready to go.

The key to a good break in is to change the oil regularly. Any contaminates from the build such as dirt or metal filings that were trapped somewhere when the block was cleaned need to be taken out. Filters and oil are cheap compared to a rebuild. As mentioned above, you could change just the filter at least once before 500 miles. Around 500 miles, change the oil and filter. Do it again 1500 miles later. Then just change it regularly every 3000 miles after that. Cut the filters open to see what's coming out of the engine. Don't panic if you see metal filings after a rebuild. Large chunks such as bearing material is a bad sign though. Take a section of the filter material and squish it in a vise to squeeze out the oil then open it up for inspection. It makes looking for small particles easier.

TPI

I thought using Rotella was for flat tappet motors?
Im sure it wouldnt hurt a roller, but doesnt it do more
good on a flat tappet break-in?

I personally tend to the 500mile, low RPM's method.
My car isn't a race car, and I expect a long life from
it. On the other hand, If it was a race block with all
tricked components. Id want to break it in at variable
RPM's, and check/re-check for leaks and the like.

If I were you, I woulda already had it on the dyno,
after Its proved leakless and road-worthy..

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Going into my engine build I knew it wasn't going to last more than 50,000 miles before needing to be freshened up. I've got probably less than 20k on it, all hard driven miles with quite a few runs down the 1/4 mile.

Broke in the cam per the instructions, made sure there were no leaks and headed down the road to seat the rings. Started out easy going up to about 55 in 2nd and letting the engine do the braking back down to about 10 mph. Did that about 5 or 6 times. Turned around and did some full throttle runs up to about 6,000 rpm, that was both scary and fun. Took me about 2 weeks to get brave enough and take the engine up around 7,000 rpm, it's seen 7,500 more than a few times since. The only mechanical failures have been 2 pushrod ends busting off probably because of excessive valve lash (I run a solid lifter cam). Any other problems have been starters, stock ignition modules and the water pump blowing a gasket.

devilfish

How many miles did you run the engine like that? Before you started to use it like you normal will?

thanks

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I had maybe 3 miles on the engine before driving it like I would be. This wasn't going to be a high mileage engine, it was going to have a hard life and so far it's been great to me. Break in yours the way you feel most comfortable with.

SSC

All the really matters is the cam and rings. Newer engines that use the metric rings dont really require much effort in seating the rings since most replacements are prefit peices that fully seat in 10 minutes. The last engine I built about 4 weeks ago, gen 6 454 I was more concerend with getting fresh filters on it since in its previous life it ate a crank to shreads.