Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

My new engine only has about 125 miles on it and it was running like dog meat. I thought it was in the computer tune but after messing around with that I came to the conclusion there must be a mechanical problem. Well turns out I'm right. I pulled all the plugs last night and they were all that nice dry tan color except the #1 cylinder. That plug was noticeably wet with fuel. First I thought maybe it fouled on initial startup so I replaced the plug and started the car again but same rough idle/running issues. Pulled the plug again and it's wet again. I tried a new wire and no change. Found my spark tester and the spark on the #1 cylinder will jump atleast a 3/4" gap so I think I can rule out a spark issue. I also screwed a compression tester into that cylinder and got around 100 psi so I know I've got compression.

The #1 cylinder definitely isn't firing or isn't firing often because all the other header primaries get scalding hot while I can still hold my hand on the #1 primary and it's only warm to the touch.

Sorry for the long intro but this leads to what I suspect the problem is. The injectors are new Ford SVO 30#'s. I'm gonna guess that the one in the #1 port is stuck open and flooding the cylinder? I switched the wires between the #1 and #3 injectors and the #1 was still the cold primary so it's not the wiring. If I put a fuel pressure gauge on the car tomorrow and clamp the return line I would see a quick drop in fuel pressure after the initial prime with the key in the on position right? Is it possible that the injector isn't opening enough to allow enough fuel in and it's not combusing but leaving the plug wet? I know the injector isn't bottomed out because I can still rotate it in it's bore while it's installed. Let me know what you guy think please.

jonmark1985

Have you checked the resistance of the injector. If it checks in a close vicinity with the other injectors then I switch its location to a different cylinder and see if it fires then.

BTW the long intro helps as to give an idea your situation.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I haven't checked the resistance. Just out of curiousity how would switching it to a different cylinder help? Just to make sure a good injector fires in my #1 cylinder?

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

It'll tell you if the problem follows that specific injector. If it does, then no matter what, that injector needs to be replaced.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Very true. There's only one reason why I don't want to go that route if I don't have to. Super Ram......taking that plenum off and putting it back on is a time consuming job to say the least. And I'm hoping I can pop the fuel rail up enough to get the injector out without removing the runners. By the way what resistance reading should I be looking for on the injectors? I know they come in different ratings but I forget what ours is. Thanks.

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

Around the 16 ohm range. Even 14 works fine.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm gonna throw a meter on it when I get home later. I talked to Kisler Fuel Injection and for $20 they'll backflush the injector to clear it out, put a new screen in it, and get it back to me. Gonna try to check the pressure dropoff before I remove it though first. Like I said....that Super Ram is a pain to install.....I've probably done it a dozen times now and those little bolts don't get any easier.

jonmark1985

I'd see if it could be warrantied. If its new I would think it would have some sort of warranty to it. At least 90 days. I wouldn't tell them you had it in a F-body though, just tell them its bad if that turns out to be the case.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Ok well I pulled the plenum off and swapped the #1 and #3 injectors but ran out of light on the reinstall. I just have a few wires and the smog pump left to reattach in the AM. I'll start it up and see if the problem follows the injector or not...hoping it does but I saw no visible problem with the injector and my fuel pressure leakdown test didn't show any quick drop in pressure.

As for warrantying the injector....unfortunately I have no receipt as I bought them off Ebay but they were definitely brand new when I got them.

I'll repost tomorrow once I fire the car back up.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Well wouldn't you know it didn't follow the injector....unless of course I screwed up and put it back in the same port on the fuel rail...but that's unlikely.

So I'm still left with the #1 cylinder being dead. So I've got compression in the cylinder. It's getting fuel because the plug is wet. And I thought my spark was ok because I can get the timing light to go off on that wire and I also have visible spark with my spark checker. I'm pretty much stumped at this point. I've tried a new plug, wire, cap, rotor, and ignition module all today to try and find the problem. I only replaced one at a time and put the old pieces back after each test so there was only one variable.

Could the pickup coil or distributor itself be causing me to have 1 bad cylinder? The header primary is still cold to the touch compared to all the others that burn me instantly.

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

This may sound stupid but check your firing order. I've been slapped in the face before with something that ended up being basic.

jonmark1985

Tried a new plug in it? Also what kind of plugs are you using?

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I'll double check my firing order but like I said....all 7 other plugs were perfect. Plugs are standard AC Delco

jonmark1985

Might be a bad wire then.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I've tried 3 different wires on there already with no change.

jonmark1985

check your cap, the terminal my be broken. Also the reluctor on the dizzy while you have the cap off, may have a broken tooth. Finally check your compression.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

I tried a working dizzy from another car today with no luck as well as a new cap and rotor, coil, module, etc. I ran a compression test on it last night and had about 100psi with just that plug removed....should be plenty to light off the cylinder.

I'm gonna pull the valve cover tomorrow and spin the motor by hand and make sure it appears as if the valves are operating correctly. Then I may doublecheck that I did in fact move the injector and didn't accidently put it back in the same spot....although I can hear them both clicking with a screw driver.

If I pull the plenum again I'm gonna fish a wire down through the runner and into the head and make sure the engine builder didn't accidently leave a rag or tape or anything in the port. Other than those things I'm really stumped and have about had it.

jonmark1985

An oscillascope would be great in this situation.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

True. I'm gonna pull the valve cover tomorrow and check the pushrods, valves, springs and adjustment on that cylinder. I really think I have to check out the compression aspect of the picture better. Maybe it's just blowing all the fuel right out an open exhaust valve or back into the intake?

I may have to try and get my hands on a leakdown tester to find out for sure.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

After going back to basics today I've identified a compression problem. I'm gonna pull the valve cover in a while and check the lash on those valves....hopefully it's not a ring issue.

back in black

I just went through a similar problem,and checked similar things to find the problem.In the end it was one of the pins in the connector that you plug on to the injector was pushed inside a bit.Something easy to check for you.

Paul Riccioli Jr

iTrader: (1)

Possibly the worst problem is unfortunately my answer. Broken rocker arm stud on a brand new AFR head. Took out the #1 exhaust rocker and in turn took out the intake pushrod. Pushrod is so bent I can't get it out of the head and it even chipped part of the head casting that I can see. I may have to pull my brand new engine to have the whole thing checked over now. AFR is gonna get more than just a piece of my mind tomorrow as I know poor quality rocker studs are something they are known for.

Schultzy89GTA

Wow Paul, very sorry to hear about that. There have been a few others here that have had problems with AFR rocker studs. Not sure what rockers you are running but EvilCartman posted up about his broken rocker stud experience. He is running the 3/8 comp pro magnums (as am I). Apparently AFR has a specific warning about these now. Here is the thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ro-magnum.html.

I hope you get things taken care of with a minimum of hassle and expense. It sounds like a stout combo. AFR heads are great at making power but if I had to do it again I would have ordered bare heads and put my own hardware in.

-Schultzy