mustangslayer86

First, let me say I attempted to look for another thread relating to this question, but failed to find one. To start off... I own a 1986 Camaro Z28. I bought it probably about a month ago. It has about 110,000 miles on it and haven't done an oil change to it since I got it (The color of the oil is still carmel). I've added about 750 miles to it since I've got it.

About a week and a half after I bought the car I saw the service engine light flash on. All the meters we're running normal and I didn't worry about it at the time because after I re-started it later on it went off and stayed off for some time. As I was riding yet again it came on about a week later, but as I turned it off and started it again... It went off. So about 2 weeks after that I decided to put exhaust on my car (it stayed off this whole time). About 10 minutes after riding with my new exhaust it came on yet again. ***All the times it came on were as I was braking to a stop light***. So my friend checked the engine and he said my oil was about a quart short. So I put a quart in there and continued driving. I was happy because it didn't come on for about 2 weeks after that, but now its back. I drove it to college this morning and it came on right before I parked it. I started it up after college and it stayed off until I went to my work about 25 miles away to get my paycheck and it came on 5 minutes before I got there. Again... After I started it after getting my paycheck it stayed off and is still off now.

I can't understand this thing. I'm going to try this paper clip thing later, but as for now I'm wondering if this off and on pattern of the light can easily determine something for you guys. This is only about the 4th Camaro i've driven in my life and none of the other ones did it quite like this one has. I'm not an expert though.

Also, if someone has a list of codes that represent error for an '86 Camaro Z28 it'd be appreciated if you could provide them.

You guys haven't let me down yet.

sqzbox

Do the paper clip thing and get back to us. With out the code, can't help ya!

mustangslayer86

Confirmed as code 32.

Read your article on it already. I know where its at and ll. Wondering if you guys think it might be loose or need replacing. I tightned it a little bit. My dad says the code was still coming on, but the service engine light didn't come on either... So...

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

yea blocked off my EGR, and put eletrical tape on the back side of the SES part of the cluster (so its hidden), so i just check my codes every oil chage to see if there is other ones in it, all i do is remove the trim so i can see the blub

mustangslayer86

Should I even consider replacing it? My uncle offered to put it on for me.

titan

Ahhh, the infamous code 32...
If you have the TBI the EGR valve is about $110. If you have a TPI, it's about $60. Before you replace it, get the engine up to operating temp, and pull off the vacuum hose thats going to the EGR, and place your finger over it. Give the car a little gas, and hold it steady, and see if you feel it pull vacuum. If you do, you know the solenoid is working and it's the EGR, if you feel no vacuum, it's the solenoid.

You can also check the EGR by pulling the vacuum line off of it, and EVENLY pressing the diaphragm up in the EGR, then placing your finger over the part that the vacuum line was plugged on to. If it comes all the way back down, then you got a bad EGR. It it drops a little, but holds up then the EGR is still fine. Keep in mind though, the EGR could be leaking down slowly. It's only pulsed with vacuum one time, and is expected to hold that vacuum. If it's leaking down slowly... it's gotta be replaced.

As far as blocking it off with an EGR plate... If you want to keep your gas mileage at it's best, blocking it is not a good idea. And as for putting tape over the SES light... Well, I think that's not a very good idea at all. It's a good way to get a heads up on whats going on. All taped up it is useless...

Lastly, after you change the EGR or solenoid, pull the fuse on the ECM from the fuse panel, and leave it out for about 3 minutes to clear the code. Be a shame to keep trying to fix it, when really all you're seeing is an old code.

mustangslayer86

You guys never let me down. Thanks for the wisdom.

mustangslayer86

I'm thinking this is what I should be looking at?

ljnowell

nope, tpi is under the upper plenum of the intake I believe.

mustangslayer86

Crap. I have a feeling I'm not going to be able to figure this out by myself.

titan

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly, if necessary.

If equipped with the 5.0L (VIN F) and 5.7L (VIN 8) engines with Tuned Port Injection (TPI), it will be necessary to remove the intake plenum to gain access to the EGR valve.

1. Tag and disconnect the necessary hoses and wiring to gain access to the EGR valve.
2. Remove the EGR valve retaining bolts.
3. Remove the EGR valve. Discard the gasket.
4. Buff the exhaust deposits from the mounting surface and around the valve using a wire wheel.
5. Remove deposits from the valve outlet.
6. Clean the mounting surfaces of the intake manifold and valve assembly.

To install:

1. Install a new EGR gasket.
2. Install the EGR valve to the manifold.
3. Install the retaining bolts.
4. Connect the wiring and hoses.
5. Install the air cleaner assembly.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

mustangslayer86

Few additional questions...

1. Will the EGR valve turn a dirty blackish as it ages to show that it might be need to be replaced?

2. How different is gas mileage and driving experience without an EGR at top shape or missing completely?

3. Is this something that needs to have immediate action taken upon?

4. Could a loose wire or pipe line be loose somewhere that could be giving my code 32? (I probably missed it somewhere when I checked it, if there is any.)

Thanks much. Without this website, I'm not sure my Camaro would survive.

titan

They usually get pretty rusty looking, but the black look could be from oil or some other fluid that has leaked on it in the past. Overall, outside appearance can't help diagnose it.

Gas mileage varied pretty notably on mine. With the bad EGR in it, I would burn about 3/8 of a tank on the way to work. After replacing it, it dropped to about 1/8 of a tank. Note, I have a TBI, not a TPI like you. Driving experience wasn't affected as far as I could tell. It didn't get sluggish or anything.

It's not a "fix it or blow it up" problem. I had to save up for a month or maybe longer to be able to dump $110 into mine. Mind though, the longer you let it go, spending more on gas, eventually, it adds up. Best bet is to replace it as soon as possible.

There's only 2 vacuum lines, and the gasket under the EGR that could be leaking. Check the vacuum lines for cracks and replace if necessary. As far as that gasket, about the only way you could tell would be to pull it off, in which case, you're going to have to replace the gasket when you put it back on.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

i still get great MPG's with my EGR gone, put plenty of miles with the EGR off of it........

i fell that checking my SES light every oil change or once a month is good enough, all i do is remove the bezel to check it, but to each there own, knock on wood, i have yet to have another code pop up

mustangslayer86

One more thing.

I talked to a mechanic at JiffyLube and "Camaro Specialist" (If you will) at AutoZone and they both insisted that you know you need a new one after your engine stalls as you come to a stop while in gear.

It could be possible that my codes we're reset when a new one was put on because the silver disc (EGR Valve) looks almost new. Looks can be decieving...

Will my engine stall as I come to a stop? Is that a sign?

(Mine hasn't stalled yet.)

Also, my gas mileage has been pretty consistent since I bought it. But the meter is always wrong because it bounces a lot and change like every time I start the car. So can't determine that yet.

titan

Mine never did stall, but I think I know why they would say that. If you manually open the EGR while idling it will stall the engine. So if yours were to be opening while you're cruising, and then not closing as you come to a stop, then yes, it would cause it to stall. That doesn't rule out the EGR though, it just means that it's opening, but not closing as it's supposed to. You may be able to get away with cleaning it. If you can get to it, without taking off the plenum, try just opening it with your fingers while the car is running. If it begins to stall, let it go, and see if it springs back. If it doesn't stall any, even with you opening it yourself, then you may have some carbon clogging up the passages it uses. If that's the case, you can remove the EGR and get a wire coat hanger and run it down inside the passages under the EGR. It won't go in very far, maybe 6 inches at the most. But there's a chance it's just clogged, and be a simple fix.

mustangslayer86

About a week ago I wiggled the valve and pushed the tubes on tighter from the solenoid and the valve and code 32 dissapeared. Probably a carbon jam.

Thank you, Titan and everyone who contributed. I printed a copy of your instructions just in case it appears again.