Head stud issue
#1
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Car: 89 S10 Blazer
Engine: 355 tbi
Transmission: Built 700R4 w/ 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 posi
Head stud issue
Well i bought a set of 062 vortec heads off of a member of this board and was getting the machine work and whatnot done and when they were pulling the studs so i can run screw in ones, one of the guide bosses broke off so one head is trashed, which isnt anybody's fault i guess, just my poor luck. Im going to run the hotcam with bigger springs, should i keep the other head with pressed in studs and get another head to match? and run it like that.
Im leary of pressed in studs, but i dont wanna be f*cked out 600 bux. Anyone have opinions on running .525 lift with the pressed studs?
Thanks.
Im leary of pressed in studs, but i dont wanna be f*cked out 600 bux. Anyone have opinions on running .525 lift with the pressed studs?
Thanks.
#2
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Re: Head stud issue
I'd say the general rule of thumb is anything over .500 lift should really have screw-in studs. You might be ok with press-ins, but it's kind of a gamble. If you're really worried about another broken guide boss, you could always have them drill and pin the press-in studs. It's not as fancy as screw-ins, but it should do the job.
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Car: 89 S10 Blazer
Engine: 355 tbi
Transmission: Built 700R4 w/ 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 posi
Re: Head stud issue
I thought of a new plan, i got another head for free, im gonna get it machined to match my other, sell those on ebay, then get a set of Dart iron eagle s/s's which seem to be just as good as the vortecs.
#4
Re: Head stud issue
The factory Vortec and LT1/L99 heads used a sealant on the studs, since they penetrate the intake port runner roof. It's usually safest to heat the surrounding area before pulling the studs to prevent just such an occurrence.
I know it's a littler late for that head, but you might want to impart some of that information to your "machinist" or shop.
I know it's a littler late for that head, but you might want to impart some of that information to your "machinist" or shop.
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Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Head stud issue
The factory Vortec and LT1/L99 heads used a sealant on the studs, since they penetrate the intake port runner roof. It's usually safest to heat the surrounding area before pulling the studs to prevent just such an occurrence.
I know it's a littler late for that head, but you might want to impart some of that information to your "machinist" or shop.
I know it's a littler late for that head, but you might want to impart some of that information to your "machinist" or shop.
#6
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Car: 89 S10 Blazer
Engine: 355 tbi
Transmission: Built 700R4 w/ 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 posi
Re: Head stud issue
fast forward a long time and ive been runing the vortecs with pressed in studs, and a 510 530 lift cam and all has been well untill last weekend, trans didnt shift right and i hit 7K and pulled out a rocker stud.
Found me some screw in studs finally, now i just need to find a tap and i should be good to go again. Def hooking the msd rev limiter back up!
Found me some screw in studs finally, now i just need to find a tap and i should be good to go again. Def hooking the msd rev limiter back up!
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