IROCmenace

iTrader: (1)

1988 5.7 TPI IROC-Z, Auto, 2.77 gears

Ok, so my crank snout is bent. Lucky me. I am going to pull the motor which I have done before. I am going to rebuild the bottom end. The motor only has 15K on it at the most and I just did the intake and runner gaskets so I am not pulling the heads off or pulling the rods and pistons out. That is, only if once I have it out, compression tests check out.
Here is my parts list and I was wondering what some guys that have done this thought. I want a primarily stock motor that is durable. Not trying to turn more than 300HP ever in this car.

Clevite CLE-CB663P Rod Bearing, P Series, Standard Size, Tri Metal

Clevite CLE-MS909HG Main Bearings, H Series, Full Groove, Standard Size, Tri Metal,

Eagle ESP-103523480 Crankshaft, 1-Piece Seal, Internal Balance, Cast Steel, Standard Snout

Fel-Pro Performance FPP-2919 Rear Main Seal, 1-Piece, Silicone

Milodon MIL-65503 Gaskets, Timing Cover, Composite/Rubber,

GM Performance NAL-14044872 Oil Pump, High-Volume, Chevy, and a new pickup
**do I need and what dizzy gear, pump drive shaft?

ARP main and rod bolt sets (which version, wave or what?)

I will get a 1 piece rubber pan gasket too.

I already have a pump primer, crankshaft socket, will get plastigage

All parts are coming from Summit
Any help is greatly appreciated

hitman0187

just sell it

IROCmenace

iTrader: (1)

Not an option.

RED86Z28

If you are planning on only swapping the crank forget about ARP bolts and expensive bearings. I would buy bearings and gaskets at the local parts store and just get regular stock replacement ones. You dont need to buy a high volume pump and new pickup when you are not having any oil related problems. The stock style internals are plenty durable.

IROCmenace

iTrader: (1)

Are the rod and main bolts reusable?

Supervisor42

I agree with the above . For a stock engine standard rebuild stuff will be fine, save the money for building the 400HP+ engine later.
Also, the likelyhood of dinging a journal with a block full of sticking up rods will be high. Put rubber hose on all of the bolts. It would be best to have 3 people to set the crank in. 2 to hold the weight of the crank and one to move the rods around. You also won't be able to turn the crank to bolt up the rods, you'll have to pull them up to the crank.

IROCmenace

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks for the advice guys. The parts store crank and the Eagle crank are about the same price. The parts store one would actually be more because of the core. I won't be able to turn in my old crank because of the bent snout. BUt the other parts store stuff will save money, which is good because my wife is having my son in July!!
So I can reuse the rod bolts? What about the main bolts?


What size rubber hose?

IROCmenace

iTrader: (1)

I take that back, the parts store crank comes with all the needed bearings matched to the machining size of the crank. Then I can get a few other needed things like U joints.

Supervisor42

3/8" fuel line. Put it on the bolts curved outward. Keep the caps matched to the rods to preserve the balance.
All of the stock hardware is fine to reuse.