Tech / General EngineWhy is my car making that sound? My car won't start! Combination questions? Don't see a board for your problem or have other technical or engine specific questions? Post them here!
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[hey i just got a 1986 camaro with a 92 v8 5.7 liter engine in it . the car was running really crappy so i had to change firing order on the car it was running alot better.. but still wasnt right about a week later i discovred the smog silinoid was disconnected from the terminal where it goes into the top of the engine also the electric was not pluged into the conponent. i did some research and found out the correct way to hook it up .. i started and drove the car about 5 blocks car seamed to be running better then ever smooth and more power . after i turned the car off and tryed to start it up the next day .. car does not start .. as u hold the exnition and pump the gas the engine gets slowly to full running speed as if its running and when i let go of the exnition it turnes off as quick as i let go ?? i also tryed removing the smog silinoid back to how i org found it still same story any suggestions ?? thanks
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[hey i just got a 1986 camaro with a 92 v8 5.7 liter engine in it . the car was running really crappy so i had to change firing order on the car it was running alot better.. but still wasnt right about a week later i discovred the smog silinoid was disconnected from the terminal where it goes into the top of the engine also the electric was not pluged into the conponent. i did some research and found out the correct way to hook it up .. i started and drove the car about 5 blocks car seamed to be running better then ever smooth and more power . after i turned the car off and tryed to start it up the next day .. car does not start .. as u hold the exnition and pump the gas the engine gets slowly to full running speed as if its running and when i let go of the exnition it turnes off as quick as i let go ?? i also tryed removing the smog silinoid back to how i org found it still same story any suggestions ?? thanks
Well i can tell you one thing... smog equipment won't cause your car to not start... Full tune up? Timing might be off really bad.....
Also as an update.... I puller the dizzy cap off and changed to the light springs to bring the timing advance in almost fully before 3000rpms and it seems to run alot more powerful now.... I was driving in the rain (spun all the time) but its getting better! So far so good!
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Sounds like progress!
Watch that the springs aren't so light that they try to advance at idle. If you find your initial timing isn't stable (at idle) that would be the place to look.
Sounds like progress!
Watch that the springs aren't so light that they try to advance at idle. If you find your initial timing isn't stable (at idle) that would be the place to look.
Alright, it seems to have good mid-range power but up top it seems to have lost some power..... I'll have to check my timing....
i just did all spark plugs and wires/ oil radaitor all fluids
How about you start your own thread with your problem instead of posting this in everyone elses? This is the 2nd post in like 10 minutes in someone elses thread with your problem, you will get more people to look at it if you start your own, just an idea. Not trying to sound rude but you'll have better luck with it that way and other people will get answers to their questions as well without having to figure out which person someone is talking to
[hey i just got a 1986 camaro with a 92 v8 5.7 liter engine in it . the car was running really crappy so i had to change firing order on the car it was running alot better.. but still wasnt right about a week later i discovred the smog silinoid was disconnected from the terminal where it goes into the top of the engine also the electric was not pluged into the conponent. i did some research and found out the correct way to hook it up .. i started and drove the car about 5 blocks car seamed to be running better then ever smooth and more power . after i turned the car off and tryed to start it up the next day .. car does not start .. as u hold the exnition and pump the gas the engine gets slowly to full running speed as if its running and when i let go of the exnition it turnes off as quick as i let go ?? i also tryed removing the smog silinoid back to how i org found it still same story any suggestions ?? thanks
Here's an update: I went to do a run today and i launched the car and i hit 2nd then all the sudden i head a pop noise... the engine starts to miss and a loud ticking starts.. It ran ok (based off the tone of the exhaust) but would miss every once in awhile but the ticking would obviously get faster as the rpms climbed. I drove it home (maybe 2 miles) and it was ok, didn't loose much power..... but it now sounds like a tapping. I pulled the valve covers thinking it was a rocker or something but it sounds like its deep in the block. I think i spun a rod bearing..... heres a link to the youtube vid of it running.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9aaj2Fqe0g
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Sounds like a spun bearing to me, but I'll admit I'm no expert on that. I would check your header gaskets. My SBC sounded very simliar when I first started it up and I thought I had a bad bearing but it was just a loose header bolt. The pop may have been a piece of the gasket being blown out of place.
After listening to it again on real speakers(not my crappy little earphones), I don't think the exhaust idea is right. It definitely sounds like something moving around in there that shouldn't be.
After listening to it again on real speakers(not my crappy little earphones), I don't think the exhaust idea is right. It definitely sounds like something moving around in there that shouldn't be.
I have had MANY problems with my exhaust gaskets and i KNOW its not that. I can feel the tapping through my clutch pedal when i push it in..... I think its screwed....
I have had MANY problems with my exhaust gaskets and i KNOW its not that. I can feel the tapping through my clutch pedal when i push it in..... I think its screwed....
Yeah, that's not a good thing. I just got my 350 build/swap done and I can only imagine how depressing this is. Hopefully we're both wrong about it.
Here's a little test I learned years ago to try to isolate a rod bearing knock.
Compare the sound of the knock with and then without the spark plug wire on the suspected cylinder. If the knock is noticably quieter, it's a good bet the bearing is done.
Here's a little test I learned years ago to try to isolate a rod bearing knock.
Compare the sound of the knock with and then without the spark plug wire on the suspected cylinder. If the knock is noticably quieter, it's a good bet the bearing is done.
Its too loud to be able to really even be able to tell which cylinder it is.....
Do each cylinder one at at a time to see if you hear any change.
A compression test may also indicate a different problem. Blown head gasket. Bent valve.
__________________ 1986 IROC-Z. 350 010 4-bolt block 10.1:1 static cr. 8.1:1 dynamic cr. Vortec heads w/ competition valve job milled to 63cc. Modified for screw in studs and guide plates. Comp Cams: Bee hive springs, Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers, Pro Magnum push rods, XR276HR cam. 670 Holley Street Avenger. RPM Air Gap intake. Cloyes Hex Adjust timing set and cover. Resized stock rods w/ARP bolts. Polished stock cast crank. Speed Pro coated flat top 4 relief pistons. Balanced assembly. Fluidampr balancer. SFI flexplate. MSD small cap distributor. MSD 6AL ignition box. Hedman LT headers w/ stainless 2.5" y-pipe. 3" Flowmaster no cat back exhaust. 700R4 w/ Trans Go reprogramming kit and upgraded 3-4 clutch pack. TCI Street Fighter 10" convertor. B&M trans cooler. Hurst dual gate shifter. 3" steel driveshaft with Spicer 1350 u-joints. 9 bolt 3.27. Spohn LCA relocation brackets. Boxed LCA's. Edelbrock strut tower brace. Energy suspension polyurethane bushings throughout. McCreary Dirt track 26" bias ply treaded slicks. 12.778 sec. 105.05 mph. 1.70/60'. 3700 lbs w/driver and 1/2 tank of 94 octane. 26(CDN)/23(US) mpg highway.
Do each cylinder one at at a time to see if you hear any change.
A compression test may also indicate a different problem. Blown head gasket. Bent valve.
Basically what i'm getting at is i know the problem has to be in the rotating assembly as its not THAT loud up top, it sounds like its inside the block coming from the bottom end...... A bent valve can make a noise that loud?
Well look on the bright side, if you catch it early enough, you dont really need any more machine work done. Just need to clean it out and throw new bearings in it. Still a lot of work, but it doesnt cost you much money, except for maybe the cam bearing tool...
Basically what i'm getting at is i know the problem has to be in the rotating assembly as its not THAT loud up top, it sounds like its inside the block coming from the bottom end...... A bent valve can make a noise that loud?
I'm just suggesting a couple of tests to try to confirm what the problem may be.
Try running the engine with one plug wire removed at a time. If the knock diminishes, you've found the offending cylinder and your rod knock. It's a simple test and only takes a few minutes.
Also i'm trying to figure out how much it would cost to go for a 385 stroker..... Do i have to change to a better set of heads than the Vortecs? Or will they be ok in a 385? Whats a good cam for a 385? I am hoping to be at least 425hp but i would like to see 450 at the crank.... Any ideas? Thanks (and this time around i'm having a shop install the rotating assembly) lol
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
One other thing i was thinking was changing to a roller setup (i have one from my factory L03) Is it really worth it to change to a roller setup? Or should i not bother and stick with a flat tappet?
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Also i'm trying to figure out how much it would cost to go for a 385 stroker..... Do i have to change to a better set of heads than the Vortecs? Or will they be ok in a 385? Whats a good cam for a 385? I am hoping to be at least 425hp but i would like to see 450 at the crank.... Any ideas? Thanks (and this time around i'm having a shop install the rotating assembly) lol
Doing a stroker means a whole new rotating assembly, clearancing the block for the longer crank throws, and checking for interference between the rods/rod bolts and the cam shaft. With Vortecs it'll knock your compression ratio through the roof. You can pull it off if you get some real deep dished pistons but I had a hard time finding some that were affordable. But i was tryign to keep it around 9.5:1.
Plus, you've got a T56... so if you want to keep your flywheel, you'll need a 1 pc RMS internal balance stroker crank. They can be had, though.
Also, I would definitely switch to a roller if you can afford it. The peace of mind is more than worth it with today's oils. And rollers give you huge performance gains. Make sure those heads can take whatever lift you throw at them though.
Just based on listening to the engine i am probably going to need a new crank (as i bought a cheap rebuilt one and it was already .040 over on all journals) and the connecting rods are probably screwed as well. So i was looking at prices for engine parts and i might as well go stroker..... its just about as expensive to put a new(aftermarket) rotating assembly that it is to but a kit or the individual parts. Basically if i confused you..... 383 internal parts price is almost equivalent to say a crank/ rods etc of the stock 350..... About the same to build the rotating assembly or either one...
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Only other thing i was wondering as well...... I want more power out of the engine... If i stay 357 and rebuild the rotating assembly with aftermarket parts what can i do to make more hp while still keeping her streetable, Or should i go with the 383 stroker? I would have to buy a new carb/ maybe heads, etc. to see good numbers from the 383. What do you guys think?
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
building a stroker motor isnt just puting in a different rotating assembly. you have to consider the block prep, as stated before there are clearance isuses with the rods to the cam and the block. a small base circle cam and grinding the block and rods while keeping it all balanced will be more money/time.
the stroker kits do make it alot easier and cheaper.
you will see better numbers when adding cubes with your current top end, jet up the carb or run a bigger one, not sure what u run. i would also rec more cam and timing. your compression ratio, will tell u how streetable it is. i street mine once in a while, its 11 to 1 with a big solid roller cam on e85. streetable comes down to what u make it, and the resources avaliable.
personally, after building a stroker, i wouldnt go any other way, when it comes to building a high performance engine.
Last edited by iroc a 86 berli; 08-09-2009 at 02:20 AM.
Ok i finally took the block apart and found this.....
Yea i know right? Idk how that happened but i'm going with forged pistons this time, and what a good roller cam to go with? I have the old L03 i'll pull the roller stuff out of to use... what a good roller cam to use with my current setup that's in my sig... Also i did take a good look at the cylinder walls and they seem to be Fine. Same with the head on that same side of the block.... its fine... Maybe terrible detonation or just a factory defect?
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Last edited by v10viper04; 08-13-2009 at 02:06 AM.
call a cam grinder with that question.
i used chet herbert, they custom ground a mech roller cam to my engine for $190 shipped, and its a wicked bump stick.
Well for now i'm going to stay flat tappet, this friday i get paid so i'll have enough money to have everything checked over again, i might end up having to buy another crank, one of the rod faces(on the crank) does not look too good. So we'll see where it goes....
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
Those pistons are the result of detonation- which was caused by imprpor tuning. I recomend having a professional tuen you car, and a REAL professional, not a shade tree mechanic with a timing light.
I would also suggest going the roller route and the 385 route. If you need a crank and cam you're only going to spend about $300 more and have about 100 more hp- seems like an easy decesion.
ALSO, clean up the SSR, bowls, and widen the pushrod pinch in your heads, taking out 10cc's of material in each runner in the right place can do WONDERS for a set of Vortecs, don't get carried away though.
500 hp on a 383 with ported vortecs and a roller cam comes about as easy as a wet fart.
Ok i got the engine running again about a month ago and it runs good, it has a little over 1000 miles on it now. My machinist informed me that it was a manufacturer defect in the piston, and that it wasn't my fault. The inside of the piston was not black at all (from the heat) it was very new and clean. But its running fine now. and i'm actaully figuring out what else i can do to the engine to pull more power out of it.(current setup is in my sig) what do you guys think? Get rid of the vortecs?
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
It depends what your objectives are.
The Vortecs have a documented history of supporting upwards of 450hp.
If you're looking for more, then a change is in order. My only beef with the Vortecs is that they're cast iron. With my cam, I could probably stand a little more static and dynamic compression however at 10.1:1/8.1:1 I feel I'm at the limit even with 94 octane.
__________________ 1986 IROC-Z. 350 010 4-bolt block 10.1:1 static cr. 8.1:1 dynamic cr. Vortec heads w/ competition valve job milled to 63cc. Modified for screw in studs and guide plates. Comp Cams: Bee hive springs, Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers, Pro Magnum push rods, XR276HR cam. 670 Holley Street Avenger. RPM Air Gap intake. Cloyes Hex Adjust timing set and cover. Resized stock rods w/ARP bolts. Polished stock cast crank. Speed Pro coated flat top 4 relief pistons. Balanced assembly. Fluidampr balancer. SFI flexplate. MSD small cap distributor. MSD 6AL ignition box. Hedman LT headers w/ stainless 2.5" y-pipe. 3" Flowmaster no cat back exhaust. 700R4 w/ Trans Go reprogramming kit and upgraded 3-4 clutch pack. TCI Street Fighter 10" convertor. B&M trans cooler. Hurst dual gate shifter. 3" steel driveshaft with Spicer 1350 u-joints. 9 bolt 3.27. Spohn LCA relocation brackets. Boxed LCA's. Edelbrock strut tower brace. Energy suspension polyurethane bushings throughout. McCreary Dirt track 26" bias ply treaded slicks. 12.778 sec. 105.05 mph. 1.70/60'. 3700 lbs w/driver and 1/2 tank of 94 octane. 26(CDN)/23(US) mpg highway.
It depends what your objectives are.
The Vortecs have a documented history of supporting upwards of 450hp.
If you're looking for more, then a change is in order. My only beef with the Vortecs is that they're cast iron. With my cam, I could probably stand a little more static and dynamic compression however at 10.1:1/8.1:1 I feel I'm at the limit even with 94 octane.
Well right now i think my car is around maybe 300 at the wheels. I would like to see 350 to the wheels.... i want a little more out of the engine, and i do think my compression ratio is around 10:1. I did use some calculators and they come up with a little over 10:1.
Well right now i think my car is around maybe 300 at the wheels. I would like to see 350 to the wheels.... i want a little more out of the engine, and i do think my compression ratio is around 10:1. I did use some calculators and they come up with a little over 10:1.
Here's a link to what I figure is the limit for a 350 Vortec headed small block.
You may have read it. That should give you 350 to the wheels.
If my combo gets me mid/high 12's (and that's about 300 rwhp), the sledgehammer should be good for low 12's at least.
(In my chassis anyway)
that's cool, but there is nothing artificial about gobs of power at hand.
Its limited that's what i don't like, its cheap horsepower... I consider Nitrous unfair power, everybody can slap a wet shot on their car and make it fast.... i would rather have the power there 24/7. I would rather beat somebody on straight motor than needing happy gas....
I was wondering about S/C my car.... Buying a used serpentine S/C like most newer cars use and buy a hat thing for the carb and running the piping... What about my compression ratio? Is it too high? I have close to 10:1 compression... Would running 5-8 lbs of boost hurt it? IDK i'm just wondering about S/Cing it... Thanks
Also will hypereutectic pistons be ok to use? I heard you can with low boost and i hear you can't... any input would be appreciated thanks....
__________________ 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Vortec 357/.040" over Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, scat forged connecting rods with ARP bolts, XE274 cam, Vortec heads, Hedman Longtube headers, T-56 Swap/Mcleod Clutch ,Holley 600cfm 4bbl Carb, Open Element w/ K&N filter,3.23 4th Gen Rear, ARP main bolts, Fully balanced.
with that much compression, you are pushing the limits of forged pistons. i would not run boost with hyper's, they will destroy that engine. i have seen cars running low boost with 11:1 compression, but it was a built to the hill engine.
