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Moly or Cast Rings?

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Old 08-22-2009, 10:08 AM
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Car: 1969 Z/28, 1983 Z/28
Engine: 350, 305 (L69)
Transmission: TKO-600, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.73
Moly or Cast Rings?

I have an old SBC that is maxed out at 0.60” over. It has about 70,000 miles since it was rebuilt. Several thousand miles ago, I tore down the motor and did a quick hone and ran the motor with no apparent blow-by problems. (On cold mornings, it does sound like a diesel! Piston slap?) I can’t remember what type of rings I used.

For other reasons, I have torn down the motor again and I’m going to try to do a hone one more time. I have no idea what the actual taper is. There is very slight ridge I can feel, with the sides of the cylinders being a little less, so I know there is an out-of-round condition. I can still see a lot of the original cross hatch on the walls, but the pattern is irregular and somewhat patchy.

Since this is not the correct way to be resurfacing the cylinders, I was wondering what would be the best ring to use that could tolerate the irregular wear.
Old 08-22-2009, 12:34 PM
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Re: Moly or Cast Rings?

60 over is NOT maxed out. JE Piston does 65 over, and 70 over. By the way, a 4.070" bore is a 30 over Mopar 340, so you have lots of choices for rings, while at 65 over, you'll have to do JE's rings, or use file-fit rings minus the filing. If that's not in your budget, 80-over cast pistons and cast rings are readily available. They're all dished, there are no 80-over flat tops. But it would be cheaper and easier to just get another block that's already been 30 or 40 over, and make it a fresh 60. Really, you can get a good 350 block for $100 anywhere, they're not scarce nor difficult to get. That would save you the pistons, rings and re-balancing.
Old 08-22-2009, 12:45 PM
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Re: Moly or Cast Rings?

The cast rings are probably the best way to go. Molyfilled rings do require a near perfect bore and pretty exact finish to get a good seat, but they last much longer when right. In the older bore I'd go with cast though.
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