89rs305-DP

So i got this problem... i installed an edelbrock open element intake and i tried to make it fit just like the stock intake, so i fabricated a spacer, a hole for my IAT sensor, and for my crankcase breather. I basically have a hose coming off that tube on the valve cover and going back onto an adapter and into my new intake. (im sorry if this is a bad discription, but im trying my best)

I ran it like this for a few weeks, until i checked the oil and noticed a very small amount of milky yellow stuff in the oil on the dipstick. Then i took off my intake and there was a bunch of this yellow stuff in the tube for my crankcase breather. (i had put a little bit of sea foam in my oil the last time i changed it btw) Of course i immediatly changed the oil and oil filter, and tried my best to clean the stuff out of the tube. (i couldnt get my valve cover off, i seriously tried for over an hour and just gave up.) but a few days later i had the same problem.

Also, with the air filter off, and the engine idling, there is smoke coming out of the breather. I think its supposed to be drawing air in, not out right?

Ok, one more thing... sometimes, especially when its cold, the engine
"hesitates" What i mean is; when im at a stop, and i try to accelerate, it will go a little bit, and then a second later, it jerks forward and goes normally.

So somebody please help. BTW its an 89 camaro RS with the 305 TBI.

Sandman22

No the breather is definitely suppose to vent out gases into the atmosphere, it prevents buildup of pressure from blowby in the engine, PCV's just recycle the blowby gas instead of venting it out. So there is nothing wrong with venting out of the breather, its just the fact that there is smoke coming out. is it burning oil?

Sandman22

I could be wrong but it also seems like the oil color (yellowish residue) is unrelated to the hesitation, do you have any engine codes? is it stalling, idling properly? accelerating how you think it should? if all thats working have a look at the transmission fluid (at least be sure thats at the proper level when warm).

pound

iTrader: (7)

Smoke coming from the breather means that exhaust is getting past the rings or valves. And milky stuff in the oil could be from coolant but maybe its left over from that seafoam. I've never used it so I'm not sure about that.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

If you don't have the PCV line hooked up to the engine vac you have no air flow ;PCV =Positive Crankcase Ventilation .
You are relying on the fumes being pushed out ( which you are seeing ) rather than sucked out.
So in colder weather / short trips the engine is not getting hot enough to boil off the condensation and with no air flow to suck water out , it settles out in the cold parts of the engine
What temp does your engine run at? does it get up to correct operating temp?

Sandman22

I agree w/ pound,
have a look at the coolant level , ensure your not burning it off, this could contribute to driveability problems fouled plugs, dirty valves ect....

danandamy

Yellow clabber looking stuff means you are getting moisture in your crank case. Sometimes you will get a little bit, just from condensation and such but quite a bit (sounds like you have) means you have either a busted head or blown head gasket.

Dan

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

drive it for 20 min bring it up to temp all the yellow stuff will be gone.

short 5 to 8 min tripes will not do it.. you need the eng to come up to temp. if it was a bad thing you would see the brown milkshake ON YOUR DipStick

89rs305-DP

Wow thanks guys for all the replies. Ok im gonna answer some questions..

Sandman22- No i dont think it burns oil, but it does leak oil. Yes i do get a check engine light, but only on the highway, and just once in a while. I havent checked to see what its for yet. Yes it has stalled on me a few times (its an automatic btw) but its very rare. It just sounds like it wants to stall when im trying to accelerate, especially when its cold.

Vettoz- I do believe my PCV valve is working. When i shake it, it rattles, and with the engine running, if i put my finger on the end of it, there is a strong vacuum.

Sandman 22- "I agree w/ pound,
have a look at the coolant level , ensure your not burning it off, this could contribute to driveability problems fouled plugs, dirty valves ect...." Now that i think of it, i have had to fill a little bit of coolent every week or so. I have a bad water pump, so i still think thats whats causing the loss of coolent. Also i just replaced the spark plugs about a week ago.

Ok i think that about covers all the questions. Please ask more! I really appreciate your help

Sandman22

If you get an engine light and the car is still running fine its the least of your problems right now (maybe an O2 sensor or something common) so check it later. Otherwise, definitely run the engine to operating temp like articwhitez said (should be idk 195-210) let it run for a little while 5-10 min at that temp see if the yellow residue goes away, (if the oil is turning a milky thick brown you have coolant and oil mixing) if not we're in good shape and its just some water condensation in the engine, also on a separate issue did the hesitation continue after the plugs were changed or has it gone away?

89rs305-DP

Yea theres just a little bit of yellow stuff, nothing brown, so im thinking its minor.

No, the hesitation still continues even after the plugs were replaced.

I should also mention that my alternator also isnt charging the battery. I have no idea why. But i have heard that the fuel pump needs a constant, steady voltage to work properly. Could this be the cause of the hesitation? I checked the big red wire going back to my battery and its good, and i checked the red wire on the connector and it also goes back to the battery and is good. But my it still isnt putting out any volts. Its a rebuilt alternator from advanced auto, and i installed it exactly like the old one. (old one didnt work either, obviously) I have no idea about the thin white wire on the connector. I think it goes to an indicator light? If so, the indicator light must not be working, because it never came on, even if the engine is off but the key is turned halfway. Or maybe its just a bad alternator??
This is my first car, (im 16) and its getting to be annoying with all these little things i have to fix

Sandman22

If the engine doesn't have the proper voltages there are such a multitude of problems that could occur, one could get lost in a car manual just thinking about it. Yes, the alternator is absolutely necessary to keep the fuel pump running correctly (among a hundred other electronic accessories), So your alternator isn't putting out any voltage? When just sitting the battery should put out 12, started and running the battery terminals should have a steady 13.8-14 volts depending on age (check w/ a volt ohm meter). Also if the car is running and your alternator is toast, it will not run long because all the electronic accessories will drain the battery and kill it (especially the fuel and ignition systems), w/out a properly working alternator its very hard to even know where to start diagnosing problems (but its a start at least)... If you don't have a volt ohm meter (either buy one $10, or go to autozone and have them test the alternator and battery (its free). Leme know how it runs after you figure this one out....

Sandman22

You and me both brother,
I worked 4 years and spent a 1500 at least to get mine to a point an I can say it runs the way I like it now, I'm unsure of the white wire right as of now, but i can tell you the one you should be most worried about is the thicker red one coming from the back of the alternator and going to the battery, ensure your getting that 14 volts from it (both at the battery and the alternator) and then we can worry about the indicator light, chances are its very possible with how old the car is it could've burned out (I didnt even realize third gens had them honestly)....

89rs305-DP

Yea im getting abosolutly no volts out of the alternator. So yea everything is running off my battery and i have to charge it everynight (its my daily driver). That cant be too good for the battery. Im definatly goin to advanced auto tomorrow to bench test the alternator. I already had the charging/starting system tested and everything was good except it wasnt charging. Obviously. Im really hoping for just a bad alternator. Then i could just exchange it for a new one and put it right in. Ill let ya know how everything goes over the next couple days. Thanks for the advice. Also i noticed you live in Oshkosh. I live in Green Bay.
Sometimes i wish my engine would just die so id be forced to swap a 350 in haha

Sandman22

feel the same,
hey when you get her runnin good this next summer i am gona try to hit up the track at kaukauna, leme know if you would be in, last time i went i got my *** handed to me but hopefully it'll be better this time.

89rs305-DP

Ok so after spending many hours in my cold garage, i think i finally have a healthy v8.
I exchanged my alternator for a new one and i put it in and it worked beautifully. 14.5 volts at the battery while its running.
Also i put a new water pump in. My old one made an annoying grinding noise.
As far as the hesitation, it has improved dramatically, but i still notice it a little when its real cold. So i bought a new fuel filter and tried to install it, but the nut is rusted to the fuel line. If i try to turn it, it starts to twist the fuel line. What should i do about that?
Also i still have the yellow stuff, and smoke coming out of my breather. I dont know what to do bout that either.

Sandman22

Thats what I like to hear,
Well to be totally honest the fuel filter is going to be very diffucult, mine was and it wasn't even rusted, if its horribly bad you might as well forget about it unless you wana replace fuel lines, I know its suppose to be done about every 10-15 thousand miles you replace it, but with how diffucult it is here idk if its worth it, eventually when you have more time you might have to replace fuel lines if you really think thats the cause of the hesitation and the rusting is really terrible, my best advice to get it off there is to soak the threads in penetrating oil for a few days, just go out to the car over and over spray it and leave it go, you may get lucky... As for the yellow stuff did you run it for 15 min at operating temp and its still there? If not try that, and if you did; check your coolant level (in the radiator) if its low we could have a problem...

Goany

seafoam can cause a left over residue but if you changing the oil it shouldnt continually keep coming back. also your saying it leaks oil where does it leak at? also the smoke is causes due to something burning. How many miles are on the engine? i know that my old car the rings around the piston fried and caused minimal oil burnage which lead to smoking so if it is leaking how fast does it leak? and if it is for sure leaking and not burning fix the leak and see if level continues to drop. As for the fuel filter those things are usually ok until they plug up which i only had happen once and its very unlikely that it is causing your sputtering. You might want to check voltage to the pump. and if its ok go ahead and run a bottle of fuel cleaner cant hurt nothing. Get back to me and let me know what happens.

89rs305-DP

It has 94,000 miles on it. And im not exactly sure where its leaking oil, but its not leaking too bad. I havent had much time to work on it recently cuz of school and work, but when i find out ill let ya know. As for the coolent leak i mentioned earlier, it seems to have stopped leaking ever since i changed my water pump. Im thinking it was leaking from the weep hole. But now i know at least its not burning coolant