Hello, I read a lot of threads here, but I'm still in doubt. Since I cleaned up the motorbay, the engine is out and on a motorstand. It has 80 k miles on it (or 180 but I don't think so). I've already checked and set the valve lash and still have to replace a leaking oil pan gasket. I also did a compression test which gave very good results. Do you think it's a good time to inspect or change the timing chain. The oil seal looks a little bit sweaty (possibly from the leaking oil pan gasket), but doesn't seam to leak. I'm especially afraid to remove the harmonic balancer, because I don't have the right tool and rental shop just don't exist over here. Also there are a lot of threads here of guys with broken bolts and/or other scary situations. European car dealers over here say that only a timing belt does need periodically replacement, but a chain is good for life. Furthermore I'm not a pro (but I really like to learn and work on my car). Thanks. As always, sorry for possible translation errors.

If the engine is out of the car, I would definitely replace the timing chain and sprockets when the oil pan is off.

The service life of a timing chain is longer than a belt, but it is no way good for life, in my experience.

You will need a harmonic balancer puller. You need one that bolts to the balancer and not a jaw-type puller. Sounds like your only alternative is to buy one. It's not cheap especially if you're only going to use it one time, but it is a necessary tool.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4531/

dunno, i'm on the flip side where I didn't use the tool and from my point of view thats pretty cheap to have the right tool for the job,lol. I was inexperienced and a bunch of people whom I thought knew what they were doing told me I can use the bolt to press the new balancer on. Fixed the threads in the crankshaft but scared the piss outta me and worried me for many miles...

I would say go ahead and buy the tool kit and go ahead and replace the chain since the motor is out. I forget what they cost but with the tool kit included it still shouldn't be to high...

there is no reason not to change it if you are questioning, it while the motors out. exspecially(sp?) if its a factory unit with the nylon teeth on the crank sproket. thet chain might stretch a lil over time, but those nylon teeth wear. and while your there, might as well change the oil pump also, cheap insurance.

just my

Because of expensive shipping costs, I wanted to make sure to order all parts in one shipping. So the hb had to come off first to see which parts are needed. I first made a tool myself but that didnt work. I probably should have used a 12.9-grade bolt instead of a 8.8.


So I took my big puller, undid it of his arms and pulled on the bolts. It came of very easily.


Shoud I still order the instalment tool or will a long bolt with large washer work too?

Thanks.

Order the installer, or make your own. Do not pull the balancer on with the bolt.

NAPA 7753901, about 27 bucks and you'll have the right tool. Yes, change out the timing chain and gears.

Dan

May have misunderstood you but unless you want to use thread locker,retap your harmonic balancer crank threads, or end up using a heli coil kit like I did, I highly recommend you spend the extra money and not use a bolt and washer to press the balancer on the crank.

I'll order the tool anyway, it's really not expensive.
I didn't intend to press the hb on with the bolt, but use it as a guider. That way i could hold the bolt with one wrench and press the hb on with a nut and large washer (prior installed on the bolt) using another wrench. Like you said, I really don't wanna risk damaging the threads, so I'll order the tool along with some other stuff at summit.

Prices of timing chain sets with sprockets are or about 38 USD, or about 130 USD. Is the first one no good ?

I also need the chain guider (or how do you call that), which is broken on the right top. I can't find a new one at Summit or at Rockauto, which are the only ones I know that ship overseas. Where can I get this part?


Thanks.

ah...thats actually a pretty good idea. Using a grade 8 bolt that might would work. Yea, sucks worse when you just had the engine rebuilt and never even started it,lol. Oh well, atleast i've learned alot since. Good luck with your project...

Get a one-piece oil pan gasket. It will cure your leaking oil pan. Stock ones are 4 piece and tend to leak, especially the cork side gaskets. Why anyone would use cork gaskets in 2010 is beyond comprehension.

That's essentially what the tool is.

Without knowing which part numbers you're looking at, the first one is probably a common stock-type "truck" chain, and the second is a true double roller.

I don't think I'd worry about it.

First one : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3201/
Second one : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3137-10/
This may be stupid question, but what is a true double roller exactly and what's the difference with a stock one ?


I'm really not an engine-expert, but don't you think it's possible that the chain gets stuck on the edge of the broken part there or at least take a hit every now and then which eventually will cause it to expand or even break. After all the part is broken while driving (I found the chip in the front case). Anyway I would be more at ease if I could replace it, so if anyone knows where to find it please let me know.

I'm really appreciating all comments.

That's what I thought, the first one is a link-belt chain, and the second is a double roller. The link belt chain is cheaper to make, but the double roller has less friction.

I don't know why it would have broken, but the chain shouldn't have enough slack in it to ever touch.