BigLou907

Alright i wasn't sure where to post this so I figure this was the best place. I have 100 dollars in my pocket and I was wondering what's best thing/things I could purchase to get a little extra power, or just the best thing I could get to improve my car?

It's a 91 RS 305 TBI, I already did the ultimate TBI mod, took out the smog pump and all its hardware, not much else but would like what ever little power i can get out of this little 305

Any input would be great thanks..... and remember I have a $100 budget and emission testing is not an issue

karr1988

Maybe a delete pulley to remove the AC compressor if you still have AC

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Full tune up. Or perhaps replace motor, trans, and diff oil with a synthetic (though you might consider a search on swapping to syn in the motor as some members complain of leaks).

JamesC

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Why would he get rid of the a/c if he has it thats dumb, it doesn't use horsepower unless you have it on.

I think you could get headers for under 100 bucks, or get a better muffler.

You could do a tuneup but whats the point if it doesn't need it.

Maybe a high-flow air cleaner, flip the lid upside down. Really not much you can do with the TBI motors other than exhaust and air cleaner.

nascar2496

iTrader: (2)

how about maybe an appearance mod? pay someone to brighten your wheels or maybe your existing badges have seen better days.. just a thought.

BigLou907

these are all great ideas except ive beat most of you to the punch haha...

I just replaced the oil and filter with a k&n, (not relevant) but i had to replace the water pump last week and the lower radiator hose

i was thinking about the k&n fliter 14/3 but its expensive like 50 some bucks.. i kinda skeptical tho if it will really boost power (any testimonials)

i have a 160 degree thermostat

i like the header idea i was looking at them on summit but im not sure if they will fit to my stock y pipe?

i have an 80 series flowmaster but would like to replace the cat back, who ever had the car before me jus did the muffler and i know that the pipes have to be restricting the flow but the only problem with that is i havent seen a good cat back for less then 300 dollars and i dont have that money yet

as for the a/c delete i like the a/c in my car and both the window motors need to be replaced as well so thats my only source of cool are besides the t-tops haha but that was a good suggestion thanks

as for the wheels and badges there all good but like i said another good suggestion

and as for the tune up all my wires and plugs seem to be good (well ok) i would like a set of new E3 plugs but i dont want to just do the plugs i would do the wires as well and that will bring me over my budget unless someone knows where i can get some cheap reliable performance wires?

any one got anything else remember $100 budget....

thanks for your input

Lou

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

Save up and drop a 350 in it. Trust me you will be happy.

I could keep giving you suggestions but my main one is save the money.

Also, I have read many places that E3 plugs aren't good for performance couldn't recall why.

My local speedshop uses AC delco plugs on all his high end motors.

BigLou907

thanks and i would love to swap a 350 believe me the only problem is i cant get one for cheap i would LOVE an LT1 more then anything but i cant find one for less then a grand..... but i would take any other 350 for cheap i didnt know how slow my car was until i got beat by a fricken crown vic taxi with over 250,000 miles completely stock and a caprice wagon completely stock, i figured that with all that extra weight i could atleast sick with them but i got blown away, wow like GM really gave these 305's absolutely now power

also i was looking into a mac performance cat delete should give me like 5 horsepower and a better sound... has anyone done this? and if so is it woth it? and is it hard (what problems should i expect)?

1986v6

If you are looking at bolt in cat delete you can always just make one your self, for like twenty bucks, or look into a cam you can find some cam and lifter kits starting right around 110 bucks or so, as far as the k&n air filter, I preffer using filters that arent oiled I just think the oil would capture more gunk and hinder air flow right out of the box versus a non oiled high flow filter, also, a muffler is a great place to look if you want a better sound, even look on rock auto.com they usually have one or two performance mufflers for a good price

built91Z28

I would personally just save the money. $100 really isnt going to get you much. I wouldnt do anything to try to boost power on a 305 anyways, escpecially becuase you already said you dont really want the 305. Its an older car so things break. I would save the money incase you wind up needing it. If your intent on spending it, I would find something in the maintenance category to spend it on. Be it on the motor, suspension, steering, alignment, etc.. As far as the cam goes, sure the cam and lifter set is $100 but then when you add in the price of two oil changes, coolant, gaskets, etc., theres another $100.

BigLou907

as for the cat delete i dont know how to weld and the mac one i think already comes with the hardware for the o2 sensor if that makes sence plus it come with all the hardware for a direct bolt on because i noticed that that using two U clamps would require more fabrication unfortunately but that is a great idea

the K&N filter the oil does kinda make me wonder myself idk they do praise these things all over the tv, if i was looking for a high flow filter without oil what would be my options?

as for the cam if i am looking for a 350 if i did get a cam i would want one that i could swap into the 350 plus i have no clue how to put a cam in and how to properly tune it and like you said with the price of gaskets, oil coolant im sure that would bring me wayyyy over my budget wasent a bad idea though

any other ideas?

bonesbrakr

iTrader: (3)

Pay a hooker to pose on the car next time you are out with your friends. MIght not make the car faster but will make many a heart race.

BigLou907

i might have a chance to win if i race the hooker idk haha with these motors it will be close

el_muerte

full poly bushing set might be an idea

BigLou907

i do like that idea i was thinking of getting all new poly urethane bushing and components for my suspension...

great idea any others?

RED86Z28

Oh yea and what exactly is that going to do?

Getting the K&N 14X3 and maybe a better coil to replace the old one is about all you are going to do for $100. If you want to do a tune up you can get good wires in the $40 range. You might be able to find a set of 1.6 rockers in your price range if you look around.

Poly bushings are not really in the budget for $100. Its going to cost money to install them. You could do poly sway bar bushings and end links but not the whole car.

1986v6

What about buying a high quality fuel system cleaner from a reputable auto parts store and then doing that with a new coil from say accel or something along those lines? a quality fuel system cleaning kit should be around fifty to sixty bucks and should help to remove carbonbuild up and all the gunk from your fuel and intake system and is easy to do in your garage or even better driveway. not sure if it was mentioned but a fuel filter can change alot

wabbitslayer

well your TBI needs to go for one. so buy a used TPI there not too much. more then 100$ around 180-240$ used but well worth it. you should think about a better rear end. a good used 4th gen rear end will do you just fine around 400$. you cant buy much with 100 and get alot out of it. i bought spark plug wires for like 80$ and coil for about 70 both MSD it will give you a little better spark. I have a 87 trans am 305 M5 TPI and i can smoke any stock crown vic. also remove your A/C unit and spare tire (you can sell the A/C stuff on Ebay for like 70$ or somthing like that. makes your engine bay easyer to work on and looks cleaner.

Zerocyde

Cause who wants an A\C when you can have no A\C instead?

RED86Z28

Removing the AC is retarded. If the AC hinders your working on the car then you are lousy at working on cars.

The $80 wires wont make the car fast but will rid him of his limited money.

Zerocyde

NOT removing the AC is retarded. How's that feel, meanie? lol.

What's wrong with wanting to remove a giant useless piece of metal? Looks better, can't hurt, more room. I fail to see a down-side.

wabbitslayer

im with you there I have T-tops so i dont see the point of them and I think A/C is a wast of space. my buddy bullydawg removed his and he has a hard top. and just because you want more space in your car does not make you "lousy at working on cars." i see it as weight reduction.

wabbitslayer

i never said it would make it "fast" i said better spark.

iroc stangs

hi here are my thoughts. ok really 100 bucks even for say plug wires and plugs honestly wont do much. i know its hard not to buy something like hi pef plug wires but honestly its just flat out not worth it. i remember i bough 2 air filters for something like 20 bucks not to long ago and my camaro is not driven at all, not raced, and the old filters were still pretty clean and now im kicking myself in the azz wondering why i even delt with that lol. if you are REALLY set on a engine swap dont spend a dime on the 305 then what you would what to spend it on is platform mods. something like springs and shocks, shift kit, rear end/rear end gears, etc. but thats just if you absolutely want something to buy right now (you wont be able to find a rear end for 100 bucks im just pointing out what platform mods are) but if you can wait just do everything at once or when you know that you'll need something and its on sale or cheap then get it. also if i rember right you said your power window motors were out, why dont you fix those? or if your paint isnt past gone maybe spend some money on apperance stuff or even stuff like chrome liscence plate frames, steering wheel cover, seat covers, headlights/tailights, etc.
anyhow good luck on your decision.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Try hot summers in Texas or Arizona and tell me you don't want AC. I don't care if you've got the tops out and the windows down, hot air blowing all over you isn't terribly pleasant. I'd rather have cold air from the vents on days like that.

wabbitslayer

i live in CA so i dont have that problem. but i see were your coming from. you could get a little spray bottle and have your girl friend spray you down while your driving.

RED86Z28

Ha feels fine. Now the cars hot, defogs like crap and is still slow. Looks like a real accomplishment.

built91Z28

I agree that taking out a perfectly good working AC is dumb. I live in Florida and cherish the AC in my daily driver. My Camaro doesnt have AC but my Camaro isnt a daily driver. If I dont feel like dealing with the heat, I just dont drive the Camaro. Although I am looking at aftermarket cleaner looking AC systems. With the AC off its not using any more power than the idler pulley is. And loosing a little bit of weight on a daily driver isnt a good enough reason for me to remove the AC. My 96 Firebird was a T-Top car and the AC didnt work. I hated that car for that reason only.

Also, how is a 4th gen rear better than a 3rd gen rear?

Bottom line, I still say save the money.

TheMuskr

Cold air

el_muerte

I live in Alberta and it can get hot enough here that I wouldn't consider removing my A/C. And besides, making any sort of road trip isn't all that pleasant with the windows down and T-tops off the whole time.

Unless, like most people here, OP is mechanically inclined and installs them himself...

RED86Z28

The control arms are very difficult to do with out a press and then it needs to be aligned.

BigLou907

wow these are all great ideas

i will tell u now im not going to remove my a/c i can work around it and its very comfortable even though i dont live in a super hot desert philly can get hot enough and i enjoy the a/c

also if i do plan on getting a 350 and spend money on my 305 now i will get things that i can remove from the 305 and put on the 350 for the most part 9 times out of 10 arent the engine blocks almost identical and thing bolt rite up

as for the tpi that i can wait to get for the 350 unless i get one with it already on there

as for products to remove carbon build up does anyone recommend any? every time i do research on them people say their all snake oils an such, just trying to get money out of my pocket but that is an area im very interested in

as i may have said before im looking at the mac cat delete, i kno it will give me a maximum gain of 5 horse power or something like that but thats better then nothing and with in my price range (not to be rude but you dont have to bring up how illegal it is and how much fines will b and how its a federal offence i know, im a bad person for our eco system and am stupid, but i kno the risk im taking and am willing to take it, sorry if that came off rude but i dont want the arguement)

these are all great ideas guys and i kno 100 dollars dosent get much anymore in the automotive industry but any imput is good thanks

keep up the ideas!

Lou

1986v6

Sea Foam how to

by Gary » October 21st 2009, 11:45pm
Not a big fan of a fix in a can.But for those of you who are I found this link on another site and thought I would pass it along.

Sea foaming Your Vehicle

For those of you who have a vehicle with a fair amount of miles on them (more than 50,000) your vehicle may have carbon buildup on the engine. To help get rid of this carbon buildup you may need to sea foam your vehicle. This is a fairly simple procedure but can seem scary if you don’t know exactly how to do it.

Sea foam is a type of product that is a liquid 100% petroleum based so it is ok for use in your vehicle. It helps loosen up and expel the carbon built up inside your engines. This was a lot more common in the days of carburetion, but sea foaming today will still help rid cars of unwanted carbon buildups. Cleaning the engine this way will lead to better performance, better gas mileage, cleaner exhaust emissions, and better throttle response.

To sea foam a vehicle you will first need to buy two cans of regular Sea Foam. Most auto parts stores should carry these products so just ask. And then you will need to buy one can of Sea Foam Deep Creep which is basically an aerosol can of Sea Foam. Once you have these you will then need to purchase a needle nose pliers , a plain screwdriver, and a long funnel.

There are three parts to sea foaming your car. The first part is cleaning your vehicles injectors this just happens to be the easiest. The second part is cleaning your vehicles oil system, and this is a little more involved. The third part is cleaning your vehicles top end which is also a little more involved.

Note: Before starting this procedure I would wait until you are a couple hundred miles away from your next oil change. You will need to run one full tank of gas and then about an extra 75-100 miles after that. After the 75-100 miles you will HAVE TO CHANGE YOUR OIL!

Part 1 The Procedure

1. First you will want to run your car until the gas gauge is almost on empty.
2. Now you will want to go to the gas station and take your long funnel and pour 1 can of Sea Foam into the gas tank.
3. You will then want to take and fill your gas tank full with a good quality gasoline. I would recommend 91+ octane.
4. Now you will want to drive your car with the sea foam in your tank until the car is almost on empty again. Then refill your car with regular gas. Now you can move onto part two.

Part 2 The Procedure

1. Now you will need to look in your owner’s manual for the oil capacity on your vehicle. This is vital to the next part.
2. Once you have located the amount write that amount down. You will want to use 1.5 ounces of sea foam for every quart of oil. This does not have to be exact just fairly close.
3. Now that you have figured out the amount you need to use you will want to make sure your car is COLD. Make sure your car has not been running in the last 20-30 minutes.
4. Now you will want to use your long funnel and pour the measured amount of sea foam into the oil fill spout.
5. This is crucial you will not want to drive your car more than 100 miles with the sea foam in the oil. You will want to drive it around for less than 100 miles and then change the oil and the oil filter. The oil will look really dark and this is all of the carbon buildup that has been cleaned out.
6. I discussed how to change your vehicles oil in Preparing Your Vehicle For Winter.

Part 3 The Procedure

1. The last part is the most complicated and often worries people but if you follow this procedure then everything will work out fine.
2. You will want to park your car in a WELL VENTILATED AREA. This is important because your vehicle will be smoking a lot!
3. Now you will want to start your vehicle and allow it to run for 5-10 minutes until it is at proper operating temperature.
4. Next you will want to pop the hood and locate a vacuum line that runs into the engine. I recommend either the PCV line which should come from your engine to your intake, or the brake booster line. The brake booster line is located on the big black round object behind your master cylinder. It has a hose connected to it; this is the brake booster line. To remove this you will need to use your needle nose pliers and a plain screwdriver. You will need to remove the clip with the needle nose pliers. Once the clip is slid down you will want to use the plain screwdriver to pry the hose off.
5. Now you should have about a half a can maybe a little more left of Sea Foam. You will want to pour about 2/3 of it into a glass.
6. You will want to start your vehicle. Do not be alarmed when your vehicle is idling at like 2000-3000 RPMs it is because you have a vacuum leak from the removed vacuum line. You should hear air coming out of the vacuum hose you removed.
7. Now you will want to take your long funnel and put the long end inside of the vacuum line.
8. Next you will want to slowly pour the 2/3 sea foam you poured into another glass down the long funnel. Your vehicle may start to smoke or almost die; you do not want it to die. If it starts to die stop pouring and wait for it to rev back up and then pour in slowly the sea foam.
9. Once you have finished pouring the 2/3 of the sea foam into the vacuum line your vehicle will likely be smoking a lot this is good, this is the carbon being burned in your engine. Now take the remaining sea foam the 1/3 left and pour it all at once into the long funnel. This should make your vehicle stall. If it does not quickly run over and shut your vehicle off.
10. Reinstall your brake booster line or your PCV line which ever vacuum line you removed.
11. Now that your vehicle is not running you will want to let it sit for 15-20 minutes allowing the sea foam to soak in and remove all of the carbon. While your vehicle is sitting you can take your can of Deep Creep Sea Foam and remove your air cleaner hose into your throttle body using a plain screwdriver. Then take and open the throttle on your throttle body and spray in a liberal amount of Deep Creep Sea Foam into the intake all over. Once you are done spraying in the Sea Foam you will want to reinstall your air cleaner hose.
12. Once your car has sat for 15-20 min you will want to start the engine. The engine will be a lot harder to start because of all of the sea foam, but it should eventually start. If your vehicle is barely running you may want to just tap the gas and that should help. You don’t need to rev the engine way up.
13. Once your vehicle is idling you will want to let it sit and idle for 10-15 minutes. Your vehicle should smoke here, but if not then your engine may have been clean.
14. Now that you have let it sit and idle for 10-15 minutes you will want to take your vehicle out on the interstate for a 10-15 minute drive. You will want to do some hard accelerating. I mean you will want to push the pedal to the floor and allow the engine to burn out the carbon. You will likely see a blue trail behind your vehicle and that is the carbon being burned out. Remember though obey all speed limits just accelerate fast when going on the on ramps don’t speed.

Now that you have finished your vehicle should run better, be more fuel efficient, have more response, and have more power. This is a completely safe procedure if you follow all of the instructions above. I would recommend doing this whenever your vehicle seems like it is lacking in performance. I would not do it at intervals less than 10,000 miles though.

thomas707

Not really sure on price but you might want to check into a aluminium drive shaft from your local dismantlers for cheap should drop some lbs an put some power to your wheels Just Sayin'

windowrattler

iTrader: (3)

Might be able to find a used posi for about 100 bucks.

BigLou907

sea foam definitely sounds like a good choice if i do everything except the oil thing do i have to change the oil because i just changed it very recently?

i would love a posi and if i can find one for a hundred that would b a definite buy but i have yet to find one

the aluminum drive shaft would also b great but i will wait for a 350 for that the 305 dosent really make enough power to exactly need one besieds the horrible shake when you get up to speeds around 100 buti ill wait on that one

great input keep it comming!

windowrattler

iTrader: (3)

If you watch ebay there are posi's that go for right around the $100 range. I got a posi with choice of gears for $170.

here is one for 28 spline axles

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/28-Sp...Q5fAccessories

BigLou907

thank you very much windowrattler

if i did purchase that would it fit in my stock 2.73 rear?

1986v6

You dont have to sea foam the oil but it will help, but also note that doing the oil is the most likely to expose a fault in your motor being held together by gunk so just a thought.

BigLou907

yeah doing the oil and possibly having it show a real fault in the motor is a real concern for me thats why i jus would do the fuel system probably just pour a bottle into my gas tank and hope it restores some of that carbon build up

my question is if i just do the fuel system will i have to replace my oil? i really hope not

1986v6

I would think not because the fuel system is a completely seperate system from oil and only comes in contact with your oil if you have some serious issues with your piston rings. I would say if in doubt follow procedure for the fuel system and also the vacuum system via the brake booster vacuum line

BigLou907

yeah im gonna do that probably today thanks bro

1986v6

let us know how it goes and remember to do it in a well ventilated area as it will smoke

haroanarchist

What would come with a full bushing set?

heather1226

Caprice wagon have a 350 stock in them, my car has the same things done to it and it has pretty good power heavy duty water pump 160 degree thermostat flowmaster catback new spark plug wires i cleaned my throttle body and a new fuel pump and it seemed to have more power.