ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I'm starting with: 96 vortec block punched 30 over, LT1 intake (stock never touched), LT1 alum heads (stock, never touched), steel 3.75 crank, powder H rods... I know I have to have the intake cut for my dist and the heads filled and milled... I want to turn this ***** 7-8k and put about 450-475 at the crank...

Cam and head job opinions please!!

Doc

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Can I ask why you need to use LT1 intake and heads? If you wanted to turn 7-8K rpm, I'd suggest something abit different, perhaps Speier Racing 215cc small bore heads. Ported LT1 castings are usually good to 7K and start to fall off.

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

I prolly won't ever turn the engine over 68 or so but I want it to stay together... And I'm working with the parts I have...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Seems like alot of headache to get ok results. The heads are great when ported by someone who knows what they are doing. Seeing great things from AI, advanced induction. But doing the conversion to sbc seems to be alot of hassle when you can get decent heads for not much more than a full port job costs. Turning to 7K rpm, you only need 195-210cc head, typical AFR/Profiler 195 should work or Dart 200 platinums.

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

I've been thinking that I shouldnt go w/ the LT1 heads just for the cost to performance factor... I've never used AFRs but I have used Darts before (700+CI BBC build) and LOVED them... I might look at the platinums... I have not however, used an LT1 intake before... I'm going to have the hole machined for the distributor and most likely, in the near future go w/ a turbo setup... Thats why I like the LT1 intake idea

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well the intake goes with the heads. If you dont do LT1 heads, you'll need to do alot more to the intake to get it to work with non LT heads. I've done the conversion, its not too bad but its best to have a welder to build up port material and attach the distributor hold down clamp nut or however you decide to do it. The distributor part is most difficult and crucial to get right. ITs on a slight angle and 1/4" gap so you need a 1/4" spacer machined with I believe a 7-8 deg angle on the surface.

And they are known to have air distribution issues so be careful with tuning. Watch the front to rear air fuel bias to see how its working. May need offset injectors or something to cure the problems. They can be sketchy on boost too. Some have used them well, others have not. Just got to be careful with it. I'd like a single plane EFI conversion when boost comes.

I mentioned AFR heads since I've had them and they worked well and alot of guys use them with good success. For 7K rpms, they fit the bill since they have lightweight 8mm valves and good 1.27" diameter double springs with 155lbs seat pressure/400 open which are the ticket for hyd roller cams turning near 7K rpms. Other heads may have some decent valvetrain options but I havent seen alot that use the small LS style valvesprings nor do they use light weight 8mm valves. Thats the best part about AFR.

Pro-Filer has good valve train options when you get them from people like Chad Speier or Dr J's performance. They will custom match whatever you need and also do some port cleanup to get them flowing well from the 'as-cast' form. Great bang for the buck head.

Darts work good too. For a strong near 7K running 355 that wants to make big power. 200cc should be minimum size i'd consider. 210 wouldnt be too shabby either for peaks near 6800 on a 355. 195's will feed it tho. 210's will make another 15hp or so at peak.

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-21...9380c2&vxp=mtr

I ran across these last night and "if" the company spends as much time testing and tuning as they claim they do, I think these heads would be a good match also. I'm going to go w/ a 210cc head for the extra top end capability. I know ProComp had some issues for some years but from what I'm reading now, they've put alot of effort into making a quality product at an affordable price... I've never known anyone to run them personally but I've heard good things about them recently... Thoughts??

I've got a Vic Jr. that has been modified to go on late model heads also... Its a carb set up but again, its an option that I have...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I still hear negative things about pro comp but I have not used them. I just know some highly experienced engine builders refuse to use them on builds so thats enough for me to stay away. Their castings are abit thinner on the deck. Its been said they weight 3 lbs less than other typical castings....

With a head, I believe you get what you pay for to a certain degree. If you are going for a fairly stout build, then do it right and save the money and spend it on a good head once you are ready.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I suggest you read through this thread.... all of it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...num-heads.html

Accessory bolt holes are wrong, poor machining, head bolt bosses are thin over water jackets leading to cracks when torqued down... etc etc.... If you can get them in a working state they're okay. I dont know that they're any better than aluminum L98 heads.