Nic

On our way up I-95 tonight headed to Fredericksburg, I got into it with another one of the guys in the club with a supercharger. This one is either a 94 or 95, can't remember which year, GT convertible. It's got a set of Trick Flow heads on it, all the bolt-ons, 3.73's, Lentech AODE, and a big Kenne Bell blower pushing 8 psi on top of it. We were rolling along about 55 - 60 mph (my speedo is way off, so I can't give exact figures here) and he punched it, then I punched it and immediately started pulling him. I went all the way up to 5500 in 3rd gear before shutting down (should be right around 100 - 105 mph) and had him by maybe 3 - 4 cars by then.

I can't wait til I get a power adder on my car...10 second ET's here I come :lala:

IROCThe5.7L

Man, your car is too fast



Good kill


My cousin just got a 5-speed celica and he ran into a 5.0 when I was in it with him. The 5.0 sounded really nice and he knew he was gonna get smoked. They hit a red light, I roll down the window to hear his car idle, and what do I hear? A Choppy idle! I'm like man, he's gonna beat you silly. And man that mustang pulled bus lengths on him-haha :lala:

fast86z28

nice kill...im not a fan of stangs but i dont think i would mind having ur car......:hail: 10's :hail:

92 Formula

iTrader: (2)

How close do you make these runs near the Massopanox exit? I know that area fairly well, do you go that far north? Your car sounds like a monster. Good kill, Nic.

Nic

Basically we race anywhere the traffic is clear on our way up there. We get off right there at the f'burg exit (Route 1 I believe?) and hit the commuter lot for a few hours then run home.

92 Formula

iTrader: (2)

Maybe one day I can meet you up at the commuter lot. It would be a ways off, but...

Take care.

wes2k3

My *** man, what is under the hood of that beast? I know you have a C-4 and 4.10s. What powers that thing? I know a guy with and 81 TA with a 455 that runs just slighty lower times than you. Very nice car.

Mark A Shields

Nice kill. Damn you fast car guys.

Nic

Just a little ol' 302

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

i would think a newer cobra with that guys mods would have done a lot better. i have seen a heads/cam buildup on a 95 GT and it was very pitiful. i dont know why i am not a big ford guy, nic seems to have a fast car tho on the other hand

IROCZTWENTYGR8

iTrader: (1)

I guess when you're running 12's you can beat almost anything. Most things actually, 12's are fast. I'd like to 1 day run in the 12.20 range. Thats if I should ever actually find the car.

Nic

Would be running 12.50's if it weren't for that damn rev limiter!

GofasterFirebird

iTrader: (3)

BTW, just placing a power adder on that mustang wont bring it to 10s.

85transamtpi

12's are fun

If you werent so far away I'd like to run em for kicks.

Nice kill, GT's are slow

-Doug

Nic

Care to tell me why not?

Mark A Shields

20lbs of boost can do wonders.

Nic

Especially when you've already got all the other supporting components on your car :lala:

Mark A Shields

So, how much boost do you plan on?

Oh yeah, sorry about yesterday on AIM, you typed that stuff about those girls and I was at my girls room. She didn't like it too much, told ya she's crazy like that.

Nic

The NMRA Real Street guys are running 10.20's w/stock cams, unported twisted wedge heads, smaller trick flow intakes (they can only run the street heat, I run the track heat), and 14# pulleys...all while weighing 400 lbs more than my car does

Of course I won't have pullies or slipping belts to worry about either :lala:

:hail: turbos

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

how much boost do you have to run and how long til it rips your motor a new one?

Nic

Could easily do it on 9 - 10 lbs of intercooled boost from a turbo. Tuned right, there shouldn't be any major problems. It would only take ~ 450 hp at 3100 lbs. Brandon's GT makes a lot more than that on 9 psi with a heads/intake setup that flows way less air than mine. The stock shortblock doesn't start getting iffy until 550 - 600 hp.

Graeme'sFirebird

DSS main support/windage tray/ and a high volume pump and you will be able to handle 14# without having to worry about it

:hail: Ford 302

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

how are you gonna be in 10's on 450 horsepower or what other plans do you have?

bigals87z28

not to break up the little mustang party, but i gotta ask u nic, (not about ur magical mustang) but is there a 302 out there that can put out 500 na? this lil mustang sob tells me he sold his bike for 5k and is gettin a new 500hp 302... i asked what kind of shot, blower or turbo hes runnin, he said none, then i asked him if he was gunna go rocket fuel, he still said no.. if there is a 500hp 302, y hasnt chevy made a 600hp 350... anway...this kid already has a nice mid 13sec car, but it keeps fallin apart on him, his roller rockers, pushrods, and cam he just put in, all blew up or broke apart or was slammin on the vavle covers... anyway good run nic, one day ill beat u!... hehehehe

Nic

Power to weight ratio. You've got to think outside of the 3500+ lb. models you're used to and remember that my car only weighs 2780 lbs with me and a hair over 2900 lbs with me. 3100 lbs is probably an over estimate of how much it would weigh with a roll bar and turbo setup. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/calc/index...de=perffromhpw

I'm sure there is, but it wouldn't be very economical or even remotely streetable. The top Pure Street guys are making 450 - 460 hp while being limited to .500" lift cams. It would probably take close to 8,000 rpm, hogged out heads, a big solid roller, and a carb to get you there.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

wait so you are saying on 450 rwhp you will be in the 10's? that i believe because that is what that calculator is setup for is rwhp.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

oh my *** that calculator is a crock of ****. i put in the rwhp for a 350 horse motor with 18% drivetrain loss (287rwhp) and it says itd run a 12.7 in a 3150 lb car.

it says i am going to be in the 11.7's after my cam swap with 369 rwhp :sillylol:

it says my friend's 67 nova, which runs consistant 12.6's should run in the 11's with 425 horsepower at the flywheel and i went higher on his weight than his car actually is.

i honestly dont think that thing is accurate, i do think you will be in the 10's with 450 rwhp tho.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

my car weighs around 3100 lbs.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

just curious, but the stock curb weight on a LX 5.0 hatchback is 3110 lbs and the coupe is 3045 lbs. howd you drop 3-400 lbs of curb weight???

Nic

That's funny...its dead on what my actual dyno #'s were on both of my 5.0's. The calculator gives you your BEST POSSIBLE ET...in other words, it assumes you've got the suspension to put the power to ground and use every bit of hp you have available.

No, I'm saying 450 hp at the crank. The calculator factors in an assumed drivetrain loss percentage. Read back up a little further where I was talking about the NMRA pure street guys. They're running high 10's (class record is a 10.72 @ 125.64) @ 3100 lbs. Do you think they're making 450 rwhp with n/a 302's with those camshaft limits? Nope, they're putting down 375 - 390 at the rear wheels...assuming a 15% drivetrain loss, that means you're looking at 450 hp at the crank.

There's so many different variables...you can't just put one figure on it. Anyway, here's the lowdown...

No smog pump
No A/C...never used it and the A/C lines were in the way so I got rid of it
No front sway bar
tubular front suspension w/coil overs
lightweight racing seats
nothing in the trunk but the battery
aluminum heads
aluminum radiator
convo pro's, which are a heck of a lot lighter than stock wheels
C4...big weight reduction over a T5 or AOD
offroad x pipe (stock H pipe is pretty heavy)
no dog bone on the rearend

Still have a full interior and all power options.

There's still a bit more weight I'm planning on taking out of the car...fiberglass hood, lightweight battery, manual steering rack, aluminum d/s.

jRaskell

Well, I don't know about mustangs, but I can tell you how to remove about 400 pounds from a third gen...

fiberglass hood and front fenders
remove front and rear bumpers (what we see are just the plastic bumper covers. Behind them are steel crush bumpers) These can be replaced with much lighter tubular bumpers for bumper cover support and SOME collision protection if so desired, but I'm unaware of any legal problems not running them.
aluminum heads
removal of smog equipment
aluminum driveshaft
tubular front a-arms and k-member
lexan windows (It may be illegal to run a lexan windshield, but lexan rear windows are completely lega, and save a LOT of weight)
removal of interior carpet and/or sound deadening padding beneath it (many may up for removing the padding only)
removal of rear seats
removal of AC equipment

Graeme'sFirebird

Yea, but you guys need to think of something just to put stuff while your wondering on this.. f-bodys had a more developed rear suspension then the mustangs did, stock for stock. Mustangs cant hook for $hit... unless slicks are used or the rear has been worked on.. our 4 link uses upper control arms and lower control arms where the upper control arms do two jobs, and do it very crappy. F-bodys come stock with torque arm, panhard bar, etc just to aid in how well the stock suspension will hook. my .02

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

so that means that when i entered my 330 horsepower 350HO crate engine without drivetrain loss and my car with driver at 3350, it could be good up to 12.43 with a perfect setup? it will be lucky to see 13.4's stock, more like 13.5-13.7's with a stall and traction goodies.

i entered my friend's S10 with a 450 horse 383 and it said he should be in the 10's, his best is 11.6's with slicks!!! this thing seems almost a second off unless i am missing something, i hate internet arguing that is not what i am aiming for i am just trying to point some things out. thanks for answering my weight question logically nic you are a cool guy but i have some more questions. your weight guess makes more sense now tho. i have:
removed smog pump, catalytic converter, heater, blower motor, blower motor housing, swapped in a th350, removed back seats, removed jack, removed spare tire, removed all smog, aluminum intake, removed cruise control, removed power steering, swapped in an aluminum radiator, pulled the ecu, pulled all ecu wiring and harness, removed a/c, removed a/c condensor and all a/c components, i dont have t-tops (saves 29.5 pounds on a thirdgen), no radio, no antenna, and i still think i am at 3100+ pounds of car unless someone has weighed and can tell me otherwise. i plan on going to the scales to find out how much my thirdgen weighs and am still trying to find ways to shed additional pounds if you guys have any other ideas.

Nic

That just means you have to beef up the rear suspension a little. Nothing $640 spent at UPR can't fix

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

taking weight off of the rear wheels with lexan will give you traction problems more than likely.

Graeme'sFirebird

Nic, i just spent 1500 dollars at griggs for one of their kits.. torque arm, panhard bar, adjustable lower control arms... was money well spent i bet.. i have a tubular k-member etc to install

Btw.. for weight savings unknown_host, for you i have some ideas, however do you drive it a lot on th street? most is removing the honeycomb behind the bumpers, swiss cheesing the doors ( i did this) remove front seats and install 1 aluminum seat.. gut the dash and build an aluminum one.. Btw, go with aluminum heads too..or completely gut the interior.. my mustang is gutted from front seats back. It looks fairly stock from the outside though..

Nic

I've got a friend with a GT with a complete Griggs setup and his car handles like it's on rails. If I were to ever build a car to corner, their suspension would be at the top of my list.

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

i am trying to stay fairly streetable, i was considering those plastic racing seats and 5 point harnesses, then ditching the rear seat belts and front seat belts. i want aluminum heads, afr 190's are up there on my list of things to get . i also ditched my windshield washer fluid resevoir and plan to ditch the rest of that system soon. any other ideas on saving weight, more in the terms of tubular stuff for F-bodies? thanks man

Graeme'sFirebird

Yea, i have plenty more if i can remember, i was an f-body guy long before i bought my mustang after my firebird was wrecked.. let me think here:
Tubular LCA's and Panhard bar, i dropped some weight when i did these, relocate the battery to the hatch, (weight distribution) Aluminum Radiator like you said before, Aluminum water pump...