cIaRmOaCrZo

hey everyone, iv recently did an engine swap ect.. its all in my signature. but i went to oriely raceway park tuesday night to just see how my car would do. and from the numbers it put down on the dyno, it ran slow at the track. my FASTEST time was a 14.2 in the 1/4mile. and my slowest was a 14.7!!!!!!!!! and iv seen and read a lot of signatures of peoples power and drag times, and mine just doesnt seen to match up at all. that soooo slow for a 400hp/510tq flywheel power....... and NO i dont have any "real" tires on it either. it burns the hell out of them all through 1st gear, almost all through 2nd, and hooks in 3rd. i know that can kill your time and the 60'. but damn i even eased into the throttle, backed on and off so it wouldnt spin them....still slow times

do you think if i actually went out and baught some drag radials and such to get a good hook, that i could be in the low 13's, or even high 12's???? cuz i been seeing some signatures getting those times and making alot less power than me.

AND i found my old time slips from when i still had the 305 tpi in my car, and matched them up with my new times. in the 1/8 mile they are about the same. the new engine only put me .2 of a second faster than my 305 did.

and this new stall converter i installed a couple weeks ago is wierd... iv never felt a converter like this ever in my life. it doesnt go through the rpms, or through the whole power band in each shift. it will only go down like 500-800 rpms in each shift. it stays buried at 5,000-6,000 rpms and doesnt start any lower nor when it shifts. its like its "mushy" or "loose" kinda like its slipping. and its supposed to be only a 2,800 stall.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

what is your mph?

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

what was your 60ft. If you have all that power you should be investing in some suspension parts, ie subframe connectors, lower control arms, and their relocation brackets, some type of drag tires. With that combo I would think a 3500 stall would be more appropriate. And if you still have 2.73 gears like it says in your avatar, that will kill your time out of the gate. Go with 3.73's your car will love you for it. With your combo plus better gears and suspension you should be able to get in the low 1.5's 60 fts

cIaRmOaCrZo

yeah i figured tires woulda been a big deal, but still...

heres my "fastest" time i was able to acheive all night

60' 2.406
330 6.136
1/8 9.242
mph 78.92
1000 11.932
1/4 14.215
mph 97.98

wut do think??

and i have dyno numbers to prove it has what i said it has.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

you 60' is horrible, thats most of the problem, wheel spin

cIaRmOaCrZo

ok lets say i actually hook, how much time do think it would actually knock off that 14.2? i figured with this power, it shoulda seen some 12's. and at LEAST 13's

Gumby

Toss some $1.50 40lb bags of cement in the back till it hook or get some meats you can heat.

Weight isn't a bad thing if its keep you from spinnin and will go faster........

Ever a chirp between gears is bad for speed when tenths of a sec count.

Though soon as you hook you will find a weak link in the chain.
Traction breaks parts.

-----
Im in the oppsite place with my wagon, its a B to get em to even squeal on take off, but the air under my left front tire on a WOT 1-2 shifts makes up for not being able to roast them at will [Cause its a 4ton tank.]

cIaRmOaCrZo

exactly, that was one of my concerns when i decided to do this engine build and swap. i had to ask myself one important question that most people usualy wont..."when am i crossing the line between 'street car' and 'drag car'?" cuz i wanted it to be completely streetable, and everything to be "functional". hell, i even have ice cold A/C and everything in my car. if i wanted it to JUST be a drag car, there woulda been alot of things i woulda sacrificed on my car. and as for the wieght thing, i have a full sterio system with two 12" subs beating in the back lol. its all street man.

kinda like corvettes, vipers, ect..they all can used as daily drivers, function completely like all cars should in every aspect. AND haul *** and look sexy doin it! lol

so i didnt wanna sacrifice street car looks, and function in this build. ex: fat nasty tires, roll cage, carbed engine ect.

so maybe i shouldnt be at the track at all.... but i still want a 13 second car. so ill at least get some drag radials and sturdy up the rear end. i kinda wanna keep my 2.73's for high way use and everything.

Camaro Spectre

Tires and gears would really help you out. You may think that something like 3.73s are not very highway friendly but i personally enjoy them and i drive on the interstate quite frequently and still get pretty good gas mileage. Even some 3.42s would be better for you as you gotta get the car into its peak power as fast as possible and deeper gears are one of the best ways to do it.

Gumby

A stereo system isn't that heavy.
Adding some real weight won't change it, it will help in the winter if your gonna go all out street But you gotta get it to hook if you want numbers.

Id take 4-6 40lb bags to the track and add as needed till its grab like it has claws.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

you don't have the MPH that suggests 400HP at the flywheel.
I have around 215-225 at the flywheel and I trap 93mph.
3580 race weight.

you should be trapping 105+mph, closer to 110mph.
Even if you spin or bog during the 60ft, with HP you will pull up top towards the end of the track.
Your numbers are either incorrect, your tranny is slipping like a ****, or your tune is screwed up.

using an HP calculator with your 1/4 mile time and mph with a 4000lbs race weight, it shows 284.45HP at the flywheel.
http://www.dragtimes.com/horsepower-...power+Estimate

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/Phil/bg/
I know they aren't 100% accurate, but they are a good gauge.

cIaRmOaCrZo

and see thats wut i was saying about this stall converter i got, it doesnt feel right...it seems like its slipping or sumthin. cuz if i mash it, it imediatly shoots to 5000-6000 rpms and STAYS! so maybe that is a bad converter. it does NOT go thru the rpms, just 5-6k and nothing less. at WOT only.

and i forgot to log my timing after i got it dyno tuned, and later on had to replace my pick up coil, so i made these "referance" marks on my intake and dizzy tray and few more in other spots so it would go back exactly where it was. well i must have put the dizzy gear on 180* off cuz when i put it back in, it was a HALF a tooth off in either direction of the referance marks i made. (if you look at a dizzy gear, it isnt perfect on both sides, cuz on the side the tooth lines up with the dowel pin hole, and on the other the tooth is half way lined up with the dowel pin hole.

so my timing may be off a hair, and i took off the aluminum underdrive pulleys off since the tune too, due to alt belt flinging off constantly.
but i wouldnt think it would too far off of the original numbers.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

My brother has a 4000 stall in his 96 Trans Am and when you mash the gas, the RPMs go to 6000 and stay there, but the car starts accelerating, and when it shifts, it only drops a few hundred RPMs and then is back at 6000 rpm.
his car with about 400hp at the flywheel,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7yhFo33ilQ

oh, he has a video of the start up and idle of his car,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZXqMvQwW3I

(you can see my formula next to his car)

cIaRmOaCrZo

JEEZ thats exactly how mine is! so my converter may not be 2800 stall as it was advertized. cuz thats how much flywheel power mine has. and your description of his converter actions sound identical to mine. yet hes running 12's.....

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

You could have a really bad tranny (massive slippage) as well if the converter is actually 2800 and it is going to 6K and holding there.
See if your trans fluid smells burnt.

cIaRmOaCrZo

oh no no no no. tranny is PERFECT. been rebuilt and taken great care of 10,000 miles ago. AND i used 2 other converters before i put this one in. the first one i had was a cheap remaned 12" 2,500 stall converter. felt great. but my front bushing blew out and i assumed it was because of this conveter bieng out of balance. so i put my factory OEM (10,000 miles old) back in it. then that one didnt have enough stall at all. it faught me at the stop lights and everything. so now i put that 2,800 stall 10" conveter in it. and i did all of this in the matter of 3 weeks. and the first two converters went thru the rpms NORMAL. even that 2,500 stall felt NORMAL. its just this 2,800 stall that feels WIERD. pretty much like you mentioned about your friends, or brothers converter.

so tranny is NOT the problem.

Gumby

And yet your still buring the tires off it

NOt all TCs are made alike, it best if you can to have one built for you and not some off the shelf uni built unit.

Good places like coan or TS will ask for a dyno sheet and engine info to match it right.

I got a 12" 2200 ACC and it works great. I want a 10" 2800 now.
{I went shy on it at first but now I want more n smaller}


http://www.coanracing.com

http://www.transmission-specialties.com/

http://www.accperformance.com/

cIaRmOaCrZo

heres the chassis dyno numbers my car pulled. and it was with the normal converters. a slipping tranny could not produce these numbers lol

Gumby

take that, the rest of your car specs n $900-$1300 and have a TC built to match your car, sounds like allot but much better then off then shelf part....

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

usually when you get a torque converter, well at least with me, they wanted it to compliment both the rear gears and the camshaft. If you go with 3.42 gears or even 3.73 gears, your car will get out of the hole so much quicker. I have 3.90 gears in my car and am getting 19 mpg. Very streetable. 3.73 gears are very streetable. I would suggest before you put anything else on your car, to but a good set of gears, and some sticky tires and see how it performs.

IROCZZ3

I have to agree with Zepher that your MPH is too low for the mods, especially for a 383. Tune for more MPH and not ET....worry about ET later when you have the motor running really well. For comparison, my old IROC with an HSRd 350 trapped 112-113 and had more in it with a better tune.

Looking at your sig, it says you have ported and polished 882 heads...I forget but aren't those production truck heads?? What kind of valve springs, and were they set up and matched for your cam? What kind of lifters, and how much lash? From experience, all those little details in the valvetrain can cost you up to 30-40 hp alone. It seems power is dropping off after only 4900 rpms. With a 280 cam I would think it would like to rev a bit higher, which makes me believe the valve springs are suspect.

Most importantly don't get too hung up on dyno numbers...timeslips are whats important. Good luck!

cIaRmOaCrZo

yeah the 882 heads are production cast truck heads. and i have about 32 hours of porting and polishing in them. i never flow benched them, but they are wayy better than stock. and been milled .060" and they have a fresh 3 angle valve job. (stock valves btw) and brand new springs, are all set at 110lbs install hieght.

but i agree that this cam isnt getting its full potential. the cam and intake are basically perfect matches "power band" wise. so i guess the heads are the restriction

ejmcdona

Actually, the numbers do match. You have 310rwhp in a car that isn't hooking and has a slipping trans. This killed your 60', your ET, and your MPH.

Fix the problem with the converter and get some tires, and you will knock at least a second off and pick up 10mph. Put a gear in there and watch it really open up.

Keep it simple! You have the HP, you just need to get it to the ground.
...and DO NOT go to the track with bags of cement! Some people are ridiculous.