whoaru99

Doing some searches on plenums, runners, and repairs in general. I see a number of different torque specs - primarily on the intake manifold, runners and plenum.

My factory service manual says 25 ft-lbs for runners to plenum and runners to intake manifold. The intake manifold to cyl. head says 35 lb-ft.

Am I safe to assume the factory knows what they are doing here since I have seen lower torque on the plenum/runners and higher torque on the manifold to head in several threads.

Opinions?

PS - will be putting anti-seize on all bolts into aluminum, is the "standard" practice to derate normal torque about 20% when using anti-seize?

Also, the factory manual calls out no specific sequence in tightening the runner bolts. Common sense dictates starting from the center and working out, but what about tightening the runner to manifold, or runner to plenum first? Or, just work equally in stages in a logical bolt pattern sequence?

doc

The torque value above are correct, however, I use medium strength loctite on the bolts, to keep them tight. Also, I start all bolts by finger only, the sequence does not matter. AND I come back in a few minutes and re-torque all bolts to the appropriate value because the gasket will take a set.

cdartz

I never bother to torque them. It's never seemed to really matter. I just go by "tight is tight and too tight is broken." I also make sure I start all the bolts by hand before tightening any of them, and I tighten them all evenly. I guess I'd torque them if I had a torque wrench, but I broke mine a couple years back and haven't gotten around to replacing it. So far I've been ok.

Johngypsy

With the pentium and any runners that u have elderbrock, tps, or just the factory, it's only air coming in no gas or water, so the torque sequence is any way u choose to install them,just make sure that your new gaskets are good and tight into the small holes in there l, never ever use gasket fillers materials to it. but I agree with center in and work your way out...
As far as the intake is concerned....

Remember we have old cars that now is not factory any longer as far as bolts, intakes, and heads unless they are brand new from a performance company or just upgrading to another system. We installed quite a few intakes and only had to take them all off agin several months later because of the water leaks and water in the oil, all because of the bolts, 27 years old plus

With our set ups we contacted a few guys from up north who live and breath Tpi iron and aluminum heads for a day job, as that's all they work on
They replied to us saying:

The cast iron heads needs the bolt pattern as follows:

Center first 4 bolts
Fire wall bolts 2 to each side where the disteibeter goes at, or the bracket where the coil is mounted onto will be next with same older org bolts to 37 ft pounds to the back firewall only: clean old bolts off with degreaser first and then use thread lock of your choice (med grade as a member said here to)

Using new arp bolts or any new bolts also same pattern with thred lock medium grade, but with 35.5 pound ft torque no more then 36ft pound,

And the rest of patter do the same outside bolts last near water outlet and torque down properly. We also done by hand tight to wirh no thred lock and whalla! Blown gaskets and water gushing down like it's raining in the spring time, and a nightmear of work to say the least or paying someone who never done this before because these intakes and settings has to be done right. These shops are all good, but remember this is the first and only year wirh fuel injection sys made for any year Camaro/Trans am models,

So do it right the first time around, it's not worth the hassle to redo it again, trust me.

When u guys have to do this job. Just remember DO NOT WEAR A BELT on your pants or have any medal or shirts with plastic buttons or vice versa. As your cars front fenders will hate u pretty bad. They can and will be scratched everytime u bend into the motor to break loose some bolts or to get to the back dis:

Also a quick reminder on your bolts since we brought this up:

Take a card board and draw a diagram of your Tpi unit:

Right side and left or passangers and drivers side:
Punch small holes into your card board every time you take out a bolt, this bolt goes here and this one is at the top pentium ect....

This will help that u won't put a larger bolt into the smaller bolt threads as this will crack open the aluminum and then go and try and find that intake or pentium unless u order it on eBay or have to drive 75 mikes plus back and forth to replace it, so do a proper match to each and every bolt taken out to. If u let someone els do this job? Make them a cardboard for them as they NEVER will do it as they think that they have it all figured out, and if it fits for them they just leave it in there half way threw or broken internal threads..... Seen some intakes that was jb welded that u have no idea what was done as they dottent put back in the bolts properly....

Seen one Used (on my car ) bunk bed bolts used to put together a child's bed into my 400 dollars performance elderbrock runners, yea and 6-7 bolts of intake loose by hand,

So be cautious who ever does this job, do it right the first time and if u do the job? I know that u will do it right to be honest, not to hard if u ask or see Picts on line here, to me it's worth me spending time with my baby, as my wife thinks I am always cheating on her with my Iroc and hates my car now....

So good luck and hope this helps out new readers
John
Iroc z parts and supplies
Houston tx