WhiteIrocZ

iTrader: (3)

Salesman recommended comp cam #24908-430-8 and springs #982-16 for 305 TPI Auto with 2000 stall, headers, and 3.42 rear gear. Does this cam look good? He said that the cam will sound lopey but not too much chop. Power range looks ok, but I just want to get some opinions. Heres the link...

cam: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

springs: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=cca-982-16

tenpin842

I think the cam looks pretty good.
Dont forget to change your valve seals while your in there.

I used the CRANE cam in my sig. And I like it a lot!

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Wait a sec, that cam has a .525" lift. I was going to install a ZZ4 cam which has a .510" lift and was told that the factory LB9 heads are only good for .500" lift and that MAYBE the ZZ4 cam would work. How is this .525" lift cam going to work?

mnorton

A 305 TPI engine won't like that cam at all. There's too much duration, and not enough LSA. Also, a split pattern cam would be a better choice.

Time to re-think your cam choice!

8T9 BANDIT

so does anybody know of a good cam for a lb9?, i will hopefully soon be adding a procharger. should i leave the peanut in there? or upgrade first?

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

You might want to consider Comp cam# 08-501-8. That one should work with your stock computer, and make great power in a 305. You'll need to upgrade to the matching valve springs, but that'd be it.

WhiteIrocZ

iTrader: (3)

Wait a minute, the specs the guy told me over the phone were not the same as what the web site says. He stated that it was a .500 lift, 270 duration, 215 Duration at 050 lift, 1800-5000 Rpm, and he gave me part number 24908-430-8. That is definitely not the same cam, and that is correct that the LB9 heads can only take .500 lift. What do you think this would sound like, that is basically what I am going for with the cam swap. I definitely don't want to kill my bottom end torque, but I need a little lope to get me through till my new motor is done. What would the 08-501-8 sound like in a 305??? Thanks for the help fellas...

By the way, I am doing valve stem seals also. Replacing them with the umbrella type that will never leak for another 100,000 miles.

I was also thinking about roller rockers also, what would be the kind I need? I am going to have to buy them for the new motor anyway, so it wouldn't be wasted money. Valve cover issues???

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

I used the comp cam xr258hr10.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
I used 1.6 roller rockers so that is 0.512/0.519
Worked good

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

The 501 cam is actually pretty mellow in a 350, so in a 305, it'll definitely have a decent lope to it, and according to Comp cams, it's supposed to work with the stock computer, intake, etc. The duration is short enough to where it shouldn't give your computer fits. Plus the 112 LSA is ecm friendly too. As far as roller rockers go, originally, the only ones I found that fit centerbolt heads with no modifications at all are the Crane Gold series, narrow body, self-aligning aluminum ones. Problem is, they're about $325 for a set. Then I found this website. Go to www.cnc-motorsports.com. They have the aluminum, narrow body, self-aligning rockers for $158.95 in 1.5 or 1.6 ratio. They also have the stainless steel, self-aligning roller rockers for $168.95. These aren't listed as being narrow body, but it's a piece of cake to modify your centerbolt covers for them. All you have to do is cut out a little bit of the inner bracing, and some minor trimming of the oil baffle where your cap screws in. I'd highly recommend getting the stainless steel ones. Aluminum fatigues after a while. If you're putting them on a daily driver, the stainless ones will never fatigue or wear out. I got the stainless ones for mine, and when I saw firsthand how easy it is to modify the valve covers, I don't understand why there's such a fuss about absolutely having to use the narrow body ones. As a matter of fact, if you get the taller, aftermarket cast aluminum centerbolt covers, they clear the standard width rockers with no mods at all. I have a set of these, and they plopped right on. Plus they look so much nicer than the stock ones! The aluminum rockers are old-hat these days. Stainless steel ones are where it's at now.

WhiteIrocZ

iTrader: (3)

How does the xr258hr10 sound and perform??? Any sound clips?? Like I said I want a little lope to it more than all out performance because this is just my every day driver, I want it to sound fast but still get 24 mpg on the highway... . So if it has a smooth idle, its out of the question.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

yea hmm im likeing this thread, im gona chime in so if u could help me too i'd appreciate it. im sick of my 350tpi and i want more HP so idk how u guys delt with the 305's power but looks like u guys built them up nice. my sig has the mods ive done, and i think i wanna get rid of the TPI and go with the HSR, but the cam dies out at 4800...correct? and the HSR wont make power till then, eventually puting ina 383 so i want it to convert over, ive been looking at cams and i might just wanna throw somethinging in there for more HP till the 383 becomes a reality. gona use stock L98 heads, HSR, and either gona put on the 1.6 aluminum narrow body self alligning roller rockers i have now or just throw in a cam with more duration...wats ur ideas, i believe stock L98 heads max lift is around .480...so i was thinking of a GM hot cam since its only 200$, compcams and crane roller cams are 275$ and up ahhhhhh! max lift with the hotcam with 1.5s is .492/.492 with a duration of 218/228 at .050, lobe at 112.

so ur opinon of the HSR/hotcam or the HSR/1.6rr? and HP estimates...

also gona need to upgrade the springs in this bad boy they got 130,000 on them, so if u could also point out a good set of springs that arent crazy $$ that will allow the lift, like Beehives etc id really appreciate it.
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hmm guess it didnt show my sig...basically full true dual exhaust with Xpipe, portet plenum/matched to SLP runners, stock base, 50psi fuel pressure, motorvation TB spacer, airfoil, ram air, pullies, motorvation strip chip, complete suspension etc, WS6, worked 700r4, stock 3.23 9 bolt posi etc

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

I had to up the idle speed for it to idle better. It was running rich at idle, too. It was not smooth.
Sorry, I blew the engine last fall so no clips.

Drac0nic

That looks like a decent cam, I'm using the Summit K1102 in mine (when I get it in) and it's a 204/214. Since I've got an 86 I'm pretty much stuck with a flat tappet cam. With the LTR type intake I'd definitely be keeping towards the conservative side on the cam, unless you're getting some runners or have some runners too. If you've got some siamesed SLPs it becomes a different ball game. I'd be thinking about 215 degrees would be as high as I'd wanna go in a street motor, and even then only with some chip work.

PneumaticTire

how did you getit to be computer controlled compatible?

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

I turned the idle up, that's it.
I bought a chip burner but never got around to burning a chip for my car.

I advanced the timing and it ran well and still got about 26mpg(cdn gallon)

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

On my last reply, I forgot to chime in on the valve seals you're going to use. Most recommend going to positive type valve seals on both the intake and exhaust valves. GM originally used umbrella type seals on the exhaust side, and those are the cause of 99% of our cars that notoriously puff a little smoke out when you first start them up. Do a search on here for "valve seals", and you'll notice how many guys here recommend using positive type seals, not umbrellas. I've never actually heard the 501 cam run in a 305, but I'd be willing to bet it would be pretty damn lopey in a 305. It's a pretty good sized cam for that size of motor. Blackbird, you'll be walking the line pretty close with the GM hot cam when it comes to lift @ .492 on stock heads. Most guys say you should be checking your retainer to guide clearance pretty carefully any time you start to exceed about .480 lift. Of course, you'll want to upgrade your springs and retainers anyways. I wouldn't trust the original springs/retainers at that amount of lift.

85birdy

seeing as how your all talking cam's im looking forward to getting Trick flow 56cc chamber aluminum heads 175cc intake, for my 305 TPI along with edelbrock high flow base and SLP runners with port matched plenum and custom cold intake and some hooker shorty's. with this stuff in, what do you guys recommend for a cam? I need a street/strip not to wild, but one that will make the heads worth it you know. also what rockers should i go with 1.5 or 1.6?? im pretty new but want to build a nice 305 atleast in the low 14's

and would i need to change injectors?

Thanks,
Jonathan

Russ-So Cal

I don't know a lot about cams, but if it will work to maximize power in a naturally aspirated engine, you DO NOT want to use it with a blower! Hot cams for n/a engines are designed with a lot of overlap to work at higher rpms. When you install a blower with a cam with a lot of overlap, your boost will push your fuel and air into the exhaust headers before the exhaust valve closes on the intake stroke. For a blower motor you want max lift with as little overlap as you can get. I would not even ask about cams in the tpi board for a blower motor. Go to the power adder board and ask the guys that are already running blower motors to see what they are running.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Are you planning to use the stock heads and TPI? If so, that cam is way too big for you. I have the comp cams 08-500-8 and like it a lot. Sounds way different than stock. I wouldn't call it lopy, but I would definitely call it choppy. This cam is slightly smaller than the 08-501-8, which is also a good choice, but may require more work to the heads, including screw in studs.
You want a cam that is going to give you a power band where the TPI can breathe. Also, no matter how computer friendly a cam is, you will need a computer tune in order to take full advantage of it. Computer friendly means that it will run, but it will be too rich in some spots and too lean in others. My car really woke up after the tune and has no problems running with stock LT1s.
When getting a cam it is better to err on the smaller side.