irocz

Okay guys, hopefully my last post on this subject. I wanted to run 6" rods on my 406, but after looking around it seems the only people that make a forged piston for use w/ the long rod are places like wiseco or ross that want almost $600!!

Does anyone make a cheaper piston for use w/ the longer rod? If not, I guess I'll have to go w/ a 5.7 rod, but I don't really want to.

thanks,


------------------
Dan
------
87 IROC-Z, 5.7,auto, 3.27, leather, !cat, Holley fpr, K&N'S, SLP 1-3/4" Jet-Hot coated headers, Accel .219 cam, Comp 1.5 roller tip rockers, $uperPITAram, Edelbrock lower intake, Holley 52mm tb, Dynomax\Flowmaster catback. Coming Soon- DFI or prom burner, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc heads, 6" rod 383 or a 406

1987 Camaro Z28 - 5.2tpi, auto, 3.73s, tb airfoil, ported plenum, !cat, !tbcoolant, !smog, !4th gear :/

1989 Pontiac 20th Anniversary Turbo Trans Am - 161,000 miles, !cat, 9" K&N - SOLD

Z-BOSS

keith blackmon

Guido

I have a 406 with 6" rods. They are eagle rods and JE pistons. They are blower pistons though. Lowered ringlands. The wrist pin is in the bottom ring and I had to put a "rail" on the top and bottom side of the bottom ring so that it had something to sit on.

I think mine were around $600 but i think that was because they are blower pistons. Im sure if you look harder they make them in a non blower application and not as expesive as I had to pay for them.

You know what machine work will be required with 6" rods in a 400 right? I hand filed my oil pan rail to clear each rod.

Ive had no problems with it which has made me feel pretty good.





------------------
-86 IROC
S-Trim, Speed Pro, AFR
this years goal: 10.50 @ 130+ mph
-=ICON Motorsports=-

BadSS

How much horsepower and RPM are you planning on running,, or what is the weight of your car and the time you hope to run? Chances are the 5.7" rods (maybe even the 5.565s) with APR bolts will be more than sufficient. If so, and you're budget conscious, you can take the additional money the 6" rod combo would cost,, apply it to the heads,,, and be much faster.

irocz

DAMN, I didn't know there were clearance issues. Was it much work?

I don't have any specific horsepower goal, but I want the car to run way into the 12s on motor. I'm not sure exactly what it weighs w/ me in it, but it's got a full leather interior, a/c, etc. so I'm guessing around 3800 lbs. or maybe a little less.

Guido

I would say if you kept to a 5.7" rod you will be able to easily meet your goal. I did it because I run a lot of boost and like to free up as much rotating weight as I can. It seemed worth the extra trouble to me.

Hurtin4Hp

I used JE forged pistons, and best I can remember I paid only $450 for them. I also used a Scat crank and Scat 4130 6" bushed rods. Also, I DID NOT have to clearance my oil pan rail, although I did have rod to camshaft contact on a couple of the rods and had to clearance the corners of the rods. And a couple of the cylinder walls at the bottom of the hole were VERY close to the rods.
By the way, with this setup I was able to internally balance the rotating assembly without the addition of mallory??? metal.

Tas

I was at PAW the other day looking at books and stuff. There was one that made a 392 out of a 400 bored .030 over. it looked trick. with the shortened stroke they ran 6" rods.

------------------
-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, auto, 14x3 chrome flat based open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips....

Soon to be installed:
Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248), Catco 3" cat, and injector spacer.

Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options
AOL IM: superGRtaz