1stcamaro85

Hi. I'm new here. I bought my 1st 85 camaro Iroc z and well, engine runs good then randomly runs like in limp mode. Now, the mass air and some other minor things are cut and not there from stupid owner before, but I can't figure out why half time I crank up and drive it runs pretty darn good while other times i crank up and it acts like it should with no maf sensor plugged in. Sooo, is that just cause sometime computer doesnt recognize the maf unplugged. SOMEONE PLEASE help. thank you.
your_majesty777@yahoo.com I don't get much time to get on here and dont know much about internet use and this site so plese try to email me or i'll try to check this post soon. thank you to whomever can help.

1stcamaro85

dang people, out of 10 of yall lookin at this, nobody knows anything to say. so much of a good refrence I was told about the people on this site.dont mean to sound grumpy but i was told people here were Stand up guys who know their stuff. anyways, thanks anyway

Glenno

"the mass air and some other minor things are cut" start here?

Reverse psychology won't get you any answers.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Is very hard to diagnose your problem if you have parts missing. Suggest you install everything correctly like it came from the factory and then see what problems you have.
The MAF is a essential piece of equipment for your car.

1stcamaro85

yeah, i know it is. i'm getting a pig tail for it this week about thursday so i'll hope and pray that it works. so far it's the only code the computer had stored.
Apologize for the grumpiness earlier posts. I was so frustrated with the car and still am but it is what it is though. thanks for the replys

burnout88

Sounds like the car has really been butchered you need to get a manual for the car and start getting the wiring back to normal. Also why does it have a 3 spd trans? Did some pull out the 700R4 4 speed? We can help you with wiring diagrams and questions but you need to very specific.

1stcamaro85

hey guys, so I hooked up the MAF sensor on my 85 Iroc 5.0TPI and well, it's still doin the same thing it did before. at cold startup, it will run 70% but after 2-4min of running, no power at all past 1/4 throttle. it just bogs down and accepts nothing if i give it more than a bit of gas. with fuel pressure reg. unplugged still nothing, so far injectors read 16.5ohms all them AT COLD. SOMEONE please help. 4 kids and no money to just guess buying parts. any ideas of where what to diagnose would be great. Thanks guys. please try to PM me if possible.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like you are not getting fuel
Have you checked actual fuel pressure?
Old car ;
filter could be blocked ,pump could be weak , sock filter in tank could be blocked ,FPR could be leaking down

1stcamaro85

ok so heres the new info SOMEONE PLEASE HELP.
Timing was at 16 and now set to 7.good, tps is now adjusted properly,perfect voltage.good, Fuel Pressure is here we go:43 KOEOff, at idle too. Start revving and drops a bit, the higher i reved though it would drop more. I revved it to almost WOT and it dropped to 20 for split second and goes right back up. Fuel filter was clogged BADLY and installed wrong way from whoever long ago. Changed that and put it in right way and well, drives descent now untill gets warmed up/hot. Then its right back to crap/ nothing past 1/4throttle. Now i've heard that the oil pressure switch/sensor controlls power to pump after runing for a minute or so. Also the codes i've got out of it was 42 EST Fault and 44 Lean exhaust. But the light goes off if I drive around slowly and just grandma it. I tested the HEI/EST according to printout and I think it tests ok as far as coil but the cap itself, all the terminals on the D. Cap whre plug wires go on are ALL LOOSE, like prettty loose. Thats not normal is it. SO sorry so long, but am I still having a fuel issue or is it spark related being the EST code was thrown momentarily right after trying to be hard on gas. I've done so much diagnosing I'm soooo confused but I've gotten quite far with it but now am lost though. I also put IAC/air mixture Idle screw at proper setting and idles great so I'm gettin somewhere just not good enough. Any help would be great. Thank you so much. God Bless You

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

OP switch works in parallel to pump relay so not a issue.If pump not running neither will engine

Looking more like a spark problem with those codes. Possible the module in the dist goes bad when the engine heats up , not uncommon.

1stcamaro85

I forgot to mention that if i rev it slowly to WOT it will except it and fuel pressure is ok, only if i snap it to WOT does the pressure drop to 20 split second and back up and acts up like crap. go up gradually is ok revving, try to go up fast and boggs/putters/nothing. does that help anything. I'm going to put on a new cap today since I know the terminals loose on the old one IS NOT a good thing.

burnout88

I have some testing for you to do.

1. With your fuel pressure gauge connected you indicate you have 40 psi of pressure with the car running. If you turn the car off how long does it take for your pressure to bleed down to zero? Does it bleed down right away?

2. The EST 42 error often means a problem in the ignition system. Ignition module under the dist. cap., misfiring cylinders, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. With your timing light connect it on each spark plug wire and observe the pulse. As you move it from wire to wire the pulse should be nice and smooth on each wire. If it erratic on a specific wire then you know you have a misfire on that cylinder. Have you done a basic tune up yet? Plugs, wires and cap/rotor.

3. Code 44 is an O2 sensor circuit error code. Based on how the car has been treated I guessing it still has the original sensor in it. However, the error itself does not mean you actually have a bad O2 sensor. A few things could be setting it off.

1. The wire from the O2 to the ECM could be bad.
2. The sensor itself is bad.
3. The ECM is bad.
4. Bad ground at the ECM on the O2 circuit
5. You actually have a lean condition and not enough fuel getting to the motor.

A lot of times it’s a false code and ECM thinks it has a lean condition but really does not and makes the car run like crap. Here’s how to check it out

With your meter you need to check the O2 sensor voltage. There is a purple wire coming out of the O2 sensor plug. Skin it back a little and check the voltage on it. Then check that same wire’s voltage right before it goes into the ECM. The readings should be consistent ranging between .500 to .800 mv varying. Must check when the car is hot. Also how does the car run with the O2 unplugged?

1stcamaro85

hey guys. WOOO HOOOO. ITS ALL GOOD. Took out fuel pump, Cleaned the nasty sock filter and removed the PULSATOR that was also clogged like crazy and put it back in, no more LOUD WHINE and all the power is there so far. Dam this car is fast. 4.11 posi rear, mild cam, straight exhaust with 40 series no cats, shorty headers, 3spd auto with 1/2 shift kit and WOOW, this car will move. I've wanted one fo these since I was 17, now 28 and finally after 4 weeks since I got it I get to see what one of these cars will do. thank you soo much for all your help and hopefully I can leave you guys alone for a while. Thanks again and God Bless you all.

burnout88

So it looks like it was option # 5.
5. You actually have a lean condition and not enough fuel getting to the motor.

Glad to hear it worked out.