gofastbird

With this setup will i be able to hit the low 13 mark (13.3-.0)

Borla exhaust no cat, jet stg 2 chip, k&n drop in, just got the following parts in last week, 3.42 gear, ratchet shifter transgo shiftkit, and 125shot of spray. drag radials??

And if not what do i need to get there, i truely want the car to hit 12's but i keep hearing it anit gonna happen. other than a swap what should be done to get closer?

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

what headers and what size exhaust you running. You running the stock converter? What heads and cam? If its all stock you may be able to hit 13.9-14.0 at best

gofastbird

it is a 3'' exhaust everything else is stock.... 13.9 wow thats hurts what needs to be done to get to the low 13s i have about $1100 bucks left to blow. any suggestions? What is a good head and cam combo to run with the car being sprayed?? i would like to get heads, cam and maybe runners done in the next few weeks. Any comments needed.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

a good converter 2800 stall would be best, along with some good shorty headers, that alone could drop .5 seconds

gofastbird

shorty is for top-end and long is for bottom-end correct? i def need help on the top end (shyts weak).a good set of headers and the 2800 stall that should run me about 500-800 bucks not a great deal for the posible .5 time drop.

gofastbird

In what order should i get this stuff done?...
heads and cams
intake runners
2800 stall and shorties

gofastbird

Thanx for the help...Now i dont have to feel like a complete idiot when i go to the shop

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

i would start with good subframe connectors, then new headers, then a torque converter, heads, cam, intake. Around that order. And also a good tune up is also a must.

gofastbird

i am gonna handle stiffness problems when i got the power and engine function up to par... it will be tuned no later than june of 2010 and all that summer i will be working on handling and braking and saftey things like that.
Oh and not to mention the body work that need to be done...Got a cracked t-top, cracked left taillight, splash of red paint on trunk hatch, light mist of tan spray paint on the hood. And a sweet key job on the right side from rear hatch all the way to front fender.. luckly the interior is fine! 3 coats of black pearl should fix most issues (got a buddy in the body shop profession (lifesaver so to be))!!!!!! other than the paint issues i have named the paint looks really good. to bad the problems arent touch up paint small they are all pretty huge. Gonna be a broke as hell for at least the first 5 or 6 months of 2010 great way to start the year.

Shadygrady

iTrader: (3)

I would do a GOOD set of headers,dyno dons or hooker 2055`s come to mind for ease of install,You could go long tube for about the same price just depends if you`re installing or paying for it.I think you could do it with some help from a half way knowledgable friend.I`ve been really surprised how easy some stuff has been to do to my car.With your nitrous and a set of sticky tires and gears id spend money on a converter and a good tune up and prom tune.You could port the stock intake for a little help but dont think you`ll see 12`s.I have seen a bone stock L98 TPI with a 125 shotget in the 12`s but dont know about the 5.0.Maybe toss on a cheap set of iron vortech heads and maybe a good used cam and you may get close,just not sure.

300hpse

iTrader: (2)

What year is the car?

gofastbird

Yea i think the next step for me is gonna be 2800 stall and 2050 1khr hooker heads, hopefully they will fit up to my exhaust well enough.

I really wanna kno what set of heads and cams i should run with the nitrous setup.?

i am not to worried about the computer to much right now i havent topped the car out since i have had it but i remember when i was younger around 14 or so my dad had the car topped out past the speedo (125).


The car is a 1989!!

gofastbird

I saw someone else in a search that was told to run this setup with their 305 on spray.....trickflow heads 175cc,

And can someone please please please explain what this means....?

218/230 duration at .050", .495/.510" lift, and then go with 1.6:1 rockers for .528/.544" lift. For a 305, a 114 lobe sep will be better than a 113, just slightly. This will want a 2500-stall converter, but will pull well to 6200 rpm. Combine with 3.73:1 gears, and 26"-O.D. drag radials.

And i am starting to see that i shouldnt have the jet chip, my dad did that years ago what should be done with it or can i just reprogm it.?

F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the headers man.

Also food for thought, most-all race cars use long tube headers. So dont get fooled. LTs are the BEST. Period. The only issue is that our cars dont have a ton of room under the hood for that kind of stuff. Your application would probably do best with 1 1/2"x3" headers. You could use 1 5/8 but the 1 1/2s will have some more yank off the line, 1 5/8 will bring more high end power. But you do not need 1 3/4.

DON 88T/A

Your car is a 89 TPI -correct?
That jet chip may not be worth much if anything...you can put the stock chip back in,bump the fuel pressure a few pounds and advance the timing a few degrees and probably get more of a kick from that..you have a drop in k&n filter,but do you have any other intake mods?a cold air kit/ported plenum (easy diy mod) will add some power. coil and set of wires will help a little as well..these are not very expensive either. Your next mod should be headers without a doubt especially if your going to spray. A nice mild stall in the 2500 range would be nice along with some DR's and subframe connectors(they make a big diffrence) These mods should easliy get you in the low 14's or faster in decent air/track...and witha 125 shot easily/match exceed your goal of low 13's.I have a 88 T/A with these mods minus headers and it ran very well...
Heads and cam is a another can of worms and I would hold off with that especially if you are going to do a bigger motor down the road. DO bolt on's and spray then go from there...

gofastbird

I think i am def going with the 2050 1hkr's cause i do wanna help the high end power.

i def will be doing the stall and headers next (2 weeks at the latest).

And as for the chip i dont really care if it isnt doing anything right now i didnt buy it (lol). But i will figure that out when i get the car to the point where it is ready to get tunned.

And the intake i will try to tackle this issue this weekend i have seen the threads on what ppl have done. Trying to figure out the best route for this..

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

I couldn't help but notice somewhat of a contradiction in this thread. You want 12's low 13's but want to get the power before tightening up the chassis. They go hand in hand. Without the power the chassis stiffening is less effective and with tons of power and lots of chassis flex and wheel spin/hop, you lose time. Long tubes are a must, gears, and good tires. Stall and tires are going to be sort of a package deal too...doesn't do a ton of good being able to launch at high revs if your tires break loose at anything over 1500 rpms. The subframe connectors and panhard rods, lower control arms all help to minimize wheel hop and increase launch/60 ft. times which as a result help your overall times. Just keep this in mind...it's a package deal. You have to have an idea of where you are wanting to be in the end as you throw parts on. Spraying the **** out of a car with stock intake and exhaust only goes so far before the restriction keeps it from going any faster for example. Basically, I think a good stall, tires, LTs, and some suspension would be my route. Should be able to do it with your budget if you do all the work. Used suspension parts can be founbd in just as useful condition without paying new price...

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

long tubes are not a must, a good set of shorties will be just fine to

gofastbird

Please read the thread b4 you comment: Most of the things you have spoken on has been discussed in the thread allready.There is a method to my madness (I think)lol

874ME

iTrader: (1)

Man, this post reminds me of my thought process in 1991 when I bought my 87. Keep in mind that header size, cam profiles and after market heads for 305's dont really do well with 350's.
Personely, I would take the 1100.00 and buy a vortec 350 out of a wrecked late 90's truck for 500.00, then install a small cam and vortec HSR.
The best my 87 IROC ran with a TON of after market parts was 15.00 @ 93 mph. I cant see a 100 shot knocking that into the low 13's/ high 12's.
Ditch the 305 for a 350 first.

gofastbird

i really think it is possible once i get the suspension and protune done i will be hitting the high 12's if i can get the car to around 350whp i should get there.... I had a 05 subaru sti stage 2 310 awhp i was able to hit 12.4 1/4 greatly to the all wheel drive launch control and great launching...So if i can get 350 -360 tunned whp and shave off wieght of the car, and suspension i should be good. i am really good driver have )soooo many track days its stupid) this is just my first time with "american muscle". Your times are made more so on your ablilty to make the car move and i am sure i will have this thing moving i will be making a complete lay out of the parts and steps i have made with this car and will post pics and 1/4 times no later than july of 2010. My main goal is to have the car completed by the end of the summer 2010 (interior,exterior,engine)

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

ok crane 2032 .452/.465 lift 214/220 duration at the rockers with 1.5 ratio, is a good cam to swap in. it will work well with nitrus too.

I would port the tb opening on your upper plenum, also siamese your lower intake runners about 3inches inward.

As for headers i'd probably go cheaper, like hedman long tubes if it were me. As for heads a set of ZZ4 aluminum heads would work great if emissions isn't a real question.

expect to pay 400 for a decent set of usable aluminum zz4 heads, that will shave 50lbs off the front too.

as for the stall forget about the naysayers it's realy un needed at this level. Dont get me wrong it will help but wont make a great deal of difference on a budget. if you realy feel the bottom end is soggy with new h/c/intake combo you can either spray it at a low end or get a converter that stalls higher and is the same size (maybe something out of a late 80s 4.3 blazer or a corvette, i know this forum says the corvette converter is around a 2200 stall. I'd be willing to bet the blazers had about the same stall too but this is just guess work here.

the cam will run you 300 bux new give or take..... porting bit maybe 20 bux, heads max of 600. gasket set 100. hedman headers probably 400. you do the math but this is a good cheap proven combo....

as for a 305 not doing the trick there has been plenty who have hit the marks you are looking for, just dont expect it to hang with a modded higher cube motor thats all.

that will put you in to high 12s i'd say fairly easy with your 125 shot of spray.

if you want to go cheaper, port your factory heads yourself and pocket the 600, performance will be close to same with unported vs ported stockers.

if you want more info feel free to pm me ok.