89transam*pearl

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Hey Guys,

Looking for some opinions on where to start first.

Cruised out to the local burger shop for the Sat night meet turned off the car had some food and when I went to leave the car wouldn't start (305 TPI).
It was getting gas because you could smell it but no ignition.
Checked the wires and plugs, all good there, it has been working fine since out of storage in May.
End of story I had to do the drive of shame home with the car on a flatbed ($98 dollar cheeseburger).

Hoping you guys can give me some direction on which sensors to check or any other opinions.

Thanks

thejimsterz28

Have you tried to start the car since then?

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

OK, finally was able to look at the car.
Replaced fuel filter, rotor & distributor cap (spark plugs looked okay).
Still no start (turns over good), I'll test the injectors & coil tomorrow hopefully one or the other is the issue....

thejimsterz28

Check your ignition control module. Have a local parts store test it for you. Have them run the test several times. That could be an easy fix. Also check your connectors on the coil (2 red and white wire connectors.) I've had a no start bc of both of those issues. Hope this helps.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'll have that checked out!

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Update:

Replaced the coil (AC Delco) & distributor, fired right up, hooked up a timing light & timed it, tightened down the dizzy hold down bolt and went for a test drive.
Car ran fine for about 15 minutes then died at a red light and wouldn't start again same as before, getting fuel pressure so that's not it just wondering what else I should check sensors, etc....
May be beyond my skill set and need to go to a shop which I really don't want to do.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Ashton89iroc

Are you getting an SES (service engine) light at all? If so, you should check the codes with a paper clip and see what it comes up with. If you don't know how to do so, this is how.

1:with the key OFF, use the a paper clip to ground the 'A' and 'B' ports on your OBD diagnostic port. 'A' and 'B' are the top two holes on the upper right hand corner

2: once you have it securely grounded, turn the key to the ON position. do NOT start the engine as long as the paperclip is in the diagnostic port.

3: with the key ON, your check engine light will go through a series of flashes. These flashes represent error codes the ECM is picking up.

4: The first code you will see is code 12, this is perfectly normal. code 12 means the ECM is in diagnostic mode. each code that comes up will show up three times and always comes in numerical order. for example if you have a code 33 (bad MAF) it will appear like this: FLASH -pause- FLASH, FLASH (this is code 12 and repeats three times) FLASH,FLASH,FLASH -pause- FLASH, FLASH, FLASH (this is code 33, each code repeats 3 times. any code after 12 is an error code until you see code 12 again)

once code 12 comes back up again, the ECM has reported all error codes and is finished. turn the key OFF and remove the paperclip and look up any codes you found.

Good luck man! using the paperclip trick has helped me immensely in diagnosing troubles with my car.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, getting an SES light and will give it a go with the paperclip deal.

Thanks

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Update,

I'm only getting a code 12.
Would an Oxygen sensor or one of the other sensors have something to do with the engine shutting down after 10 or 15 minutes?
When I got the car back in the driveway after the drive of shame on the flatbed it started again but I don't have any confidence driving it until I'm sure I've checked everything....damn tow bills are adding up!!
Any input greatly appreciated.

thejimsterz28

When you say it won't start te starter turns the engine over right? Have you checked your fuel pressure? When it doesn't start, try shooting a quick burst of carb and choke cleaner through the throttle body. If it starts for a second I'd be looking at the fuel system.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Yup it's getting fuel (fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail 40lbs.)
Engine does turn over....funny thing is it started and ran this morning.
Replaced the fuel filter last week...

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

The dreaded drive of shame....

chevypower91

I had the same problems that you are describing and the culprit was the distributor. A piece of the metal housing had broken off, which caused no spark. Have you taken out the the distributor to inspect it? I would also replace the pickup coil as well.

Let us know what the cause was.

Benny

thejimsterz28

When you turn the key to the on run position and the pump primes does the fuel pressure drop of fast on the test guage? It should hold prime well for quite a bit.

Ashton89iroc

your electronic spark control module might be bad too.
It's odd that you're not getting any codes though….it just keeps flashing code 12 over and over? you're supposed to see code 12 three times, then it shows error codes, then back to 12.

thejimsterz28

It's possible the new dizzy or component is bad. I just put a new delco icm on mine and it was bad. Took a bit to figure out lol

Bigfoottpi11

Are you sure its not VATS? vehicle anti theft system?

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

I have a mounted fuel gauge which shows consistent good pressure.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Replaced both

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

When I get home tonight I'll run it for 15-20 minutes in the driveway and see what happens.

89iroczvert

My iroc z is doing something similiar right now but seems to have to do with something getting hot and when whatever it is that is getting hot, gets hot, it will not start, im so lost with mine! I hope you get some answers and they help me at the same time! No one is answering my post haha! I hope its something simple....i was thinking pick up coil from what ive read, but now im unsure...

RBob

iTrader: (1)

If the OEM Multec injectors are still in the engine, replace them. The coils short out and the ECM can't fire them, gets worse as the temperature increases.

Next time it won't start spray some fuel into the TB and see if it kicks. If so then no fuel which points to the injectors being bad.

RBob.

89iroczvert

if the OEM multec injectors get hot and the coil shorts out....why will it remain running UNTILL I shut it off? atleast thats how mine was reacting...when i finally got it started i let it idle for an hour and a half to see if it would die or not...the longer it idled the throttle response and rev got really slow and i put it into gear and rpms dropped to 500 and car died...when it first started it reved quick and was idling around 1200 and in gear would drop to about 800-900....i have boschIIIs from southbay to try but once it started i figured i dont need injectors, i was hoping to send them back and save the money...

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

RBob, I replaced the injectors with rebuilt 22lb Bosch III's a couple of years ago, I'll give them a check, good place to start looking....thanks!

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Injectors are most likely OK, I've never known Bosch to have the 'shorting coil' syndrome.

Next time it quits need to be ready to check for spark and then if the injectors are firing. Carry a spark plug for spark testing and a NOID light for injector pulsing. Probably best to drive it and without shutting it off back to the driveway.

Then shut it off and wait a few minutes before trying to start it. If no start check the above. That will go a long way to narrowing down the issue.

It may also be something like a loose battery cable or the grounds that are bolted to the back of the heads. If any work had been recently done before the no-start started, best to check that over.

RBob.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input!

No work done recently.
Battery cables are tight.
Last time I was out it died at a stop light about 15 minutes into the drive, and wouldn't start.
It's done this both times I last had the car out, 1st time 15-20 minutes to the local burger joint (wouldn't start after it was turned off), 2nd time it died at a red light about 15 minutes into the test drive after installing new distributor & coil (and setting timing).
I ordered some 19# injectors from South Bay and will install on the weekend.

thejimsterz28

89 ta, have you checke the above? Rbob had a great point. After it shuts off, check for spark And use your mood light. That'll either prove those two wrong or you'll be able to check them off your list. Also, I'm assuming you have a 305. I noticed you currently have 22 lb Bosch injectors. Is that wht a custom tune chip? I've been thinking, I've had trouble with The chip adaptor on my z before with vehicle shutting off. Also, it could be the PCM? So it's very important to check before throwing more parts at it. Remember to also shoot carb cleaner or a super short burst of starter fluid down the tb after it dies to see if it fires off.

thejimsterz28

Noid light

89transam*pearl

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Thanks for the input jimsterz, I'll definitely try that.

89transam*pearl

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Update

RBob, changed the injectors to 19 lb (thanks South Bay) from 22 lbs, fired right up but after 10 or 15 minutes wouldn't start again, getting a code 15 (coolant temperature sensor or circuit fault - signal voltage high), would a coolant temp sensor cause the car to not start after 15 or 20 min?
Or what else should I check, appreciate the help!

ploegi

it could. If the ECM things the engine is too hot, or cold.... it will either give very little fuel, or WAY too much. It isn't an expensive part, check the wiring, if the wiring is good, replace the sensor.

89transam*pearl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks ploegi, that's what I'll do next.

thejimsterz28

Sensor is like 15 20 bucks

89transam*pearl

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Update

Just installed Coolant Temperature Sensor, the car fired up and I ran it for about 20 minutes, shut it down and it fired back up, not showing any codes now.
I'll run it again in the driveway tomorrow just to make sure....
Thanks guys for all your help!!

thejimsterz28

Your welcome! Glad we could all chime in and help!