Richard Cosner

Hi guys,

Let me start by saying, I am not a "car guy" in any sense of the word (other than, I like them). That said, I am hoping to get some idea's to throw at my garage to try since they seem to be having trouble locking down all my issues.

There is a longer version to this story that I can post if desired. Here is the "short" version.

I bought my '89 GTA about 2 months ago or so. Drove it a 2 hour drive home with 1 hickup in the middle where it wouldn't start. Got it home, and when I went to back it in, it started acting weird. I was in denial at this point, turned it off, went inside and decided, I'll take it to get it washed.

When I came out to go get it washed, I started it up and a giant plume of white smoke came out... I'm talking full blown James Bond smoke screen levels here. I immediately turned it off and had it towed to my garage.

Long story short on this part since there's no point in going into much here, the engine was replaced with a rebuilt, same 350 engine.

So i get the car back and it drove like ****. I took it on a test drive for about an hour. Whenever you got to 1800-2000 rpms it sputtered and just all around drove really bad. Then it started acting really bad on the way home, could barely get up inclines, and even flat stretches were a challenge, pulled over to the side of the road. The exhaust manifold was glowing red hot. I then had it towed to my garage where they worked on it off and on for about 3 weeks.

I have it back now. The computer was replaced along with some sensors (I can get specifics from the invoice if needed) and the catalytic converter was emptied, so its there but not doing anything. Now it drive's a whole lot better, however, on the highway at higher speeds, like say 65-70-80ish. If your cruising and go into an acceleration curve (or try to I should say), and stay in it like with the gas pedal down anywhere from 40% to 95%, it just kind of doesn't want to accelerate. It just chokes. Then flooring it will get you beyond this choke point. I drove about 15 miles testing it in this manner and checked the engine and low and behold, the exhaust manifold was glowing again...

Also as side note that may or may not be a separate issue, it intermittently stalls at red lights if in D (usually can prevent this by shifting to N, but not always). It's idling at about 500rpms.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Could be tons of issues. Fuel related, maybe. I'd do basics like check fuel pressure.

eseibel67

Richard, that's a sad story. But it can have a happy ending. You will love this car once you get it sorted out.


Hate to break it to you, but replacing an engine or computer are the absolute last resort when everything else has been given a passing grade. The problem is that the car is so old that your average wrench doesn't exactly know how it works and he is guessing. More familiar OBDII systems have been around for 20 years and they narrow the diagnostic path considerably, but these old OBDI TPI engines still require a bit more logic and bench testing of components and wiring.


Your red exhaust manifolds may be caused by retarded (in the literal sense, not figuratively) ignition timing. You might suspect that the ignition was not in "bypass mode" when the timing was set. That's were I would start.

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

cold be MAF, a memeber on here is experiencing something similar, and it seems to boil down to the maf for him

MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor

Richard Cosner

Ok so not sure why the site deleted this the first time, but let me type it all over again...I am sure I will forget something this time. I tried replying to a previous thread but it refused to save the post. Or it's here twice somewhere and I can see it. In any case...

My garage is telling me to do this same thing (rip out the TPI and replace with carb I tried posting this in a related thread but the site is being weird, so I am posting it as a reply to a thread I already created. Hopefully tomorrow when I check the site this same post doesn't appear 4 times in 4 different places....) I had the engine replaced (same 350) about a year ago and my car has not run right since.

I would totally prefer to just keep the existing system. I am sure it would be kinder to my wallet even if only by a little. They are talking about 3k to do the swap.

Now, I have to say I would really prefer someone who knows what they are doing look at this. Does anyone have a good 3rd gen/TPI specialist somewhere in Eastern PA or somewhere in fair driving distance?

For those curious, as far as what it does, it hiccups occasionally around town normal driving, which is bearable unless it really gets in a fit which is rare. The big problem is at highway speeds, say 70-90 if once I start getting near this threshold and driving semi aggressivly, sometimes even normal slow accelaration, the engine will bog down, once this happens the car goes into a shitty mode were it can't really accelerate at all and I have to let it sit for a while and cool off, If I push it too far, I get a burning, which I think is coming from the exhaust manifold melting miscellaneous things on the car (I dont know this for sure).

Again, really would like to just have someone who really knows these cars look at it. I am by no means rich, but I have money and can pay for the work if someone is willing to do it!

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Are you sure it was replaced with an engine with the same specs and not some mystery engine, possibly a low horsepower Goodwrench 350?
When I have seen the glowing exhaust manifold/header thing in the past, it was because the car was running pig rich. That is probably the reason that the cats clogged. It could be something as simple as a coolant sensor or a hung injector. Did they check codes? You need to bring it somewhere that will diagnose it and not just throw parts at it.
Check the engine specs as well, that it is a replacement L98. I think a mismatched cam might cause the issues you are having if it is not a true L98.

Richard Cosner

Yeah that is my primary issue. Finding a place to take it that is good with these cars. I am in Eastern PA, looking for somewhere within maybe an hour or so (or less) drive to have them look at it. I can certainly start tinkering around with stuff, but in my view I probably stand a better chance of making things worse than making them better.

TiredTA

This is sage advise! The only time I have seen glowing exhaust on the street not caused by a converter was with badly retarded timing. Not many shops have guys familiar with tpi anymore.

m16a2r

Check your spark plug wires at night, make sure they not sparking, since the engine was replaced, I bet they didn't route the spark plug wires properly and they got burned. Check for vacuum leaks, make sure everything connected. Is check engine light on?
BTW, car is not GTA, looks like a TA or formula to me.