melted plastic clutch line
#1
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Car: 1988 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
melted plastic clutch line
I'm an idiot... I was breaking in my new engine and the exhaust melted the plastic line that connects the clutch master cyl to the slave unit. Entirely my fault, I'm doing a 350/T5 swap on my Monte and I didn't leave enough clearance between the header and the line.
So, is there any way to fix that line by splicing in a repair or do I need to go buy another master/slave unit?
Thanks...
EdB
edit: 3rd gen content - the master/slave parts came from an 88 'bird.
So, is there any way to fix that line by splicing in a repair or do I need to go buy another master/slave unit?
Thanks...
EdB
edit: 3rd gen content - the master/slave parts came from an 88 'bird.
Last edited by MonteCarSlow; 08-14-2004 at 07:51 PM.
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my solution i posted a couple weeks ago that no one seemed to care about. 200 miles on the car so far and the clutch works great.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=253942
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=253942
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Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
If you're going to use a line off a different car, I'd use the line from an LT1 T56 car. It's flexible, braided stainless, and about 8" longer than the T5 line so you can route it away from the exhaust.
I you prefer, you can get the full LT1 hydro setup from GM for about $100, factory bled and everything. It just bolts right in, no mess. Then you've got a spare master and slave cylinder, just in case.
I you prefer, you can get the full LT1 hydro setup from GM for about $100, factory bled and everything. It just bolts right in, no mess. Then you've got a spare master and slave cylinder, just in case.
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Car: 1988 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Hmmm.. it's looking like the LT1 setup might be the ticket item for me. Anyone know if the 4th gen V6/5spd master/slave will work? car-part.com lists a local yard with stock on the v6 master/slave unit in a 97 Camaro.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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gee i wish i had money to waste on a new lt1 setup when all i need is a 3 dollar part from a dead car.
go to home depot and buy some braided plumbing hose for 5 dollars and stick it over the line.
go to home depot and buy some braided plumbing hose for 5 dollars and stick it over the line.
#6
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Originally posted by nsimmons
my solution i posted a couple weeks ago that no one seemed to care about. 200 miles on the car so far and the clutch works great.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=253942
my solution i posted a couple weeks ago that no one seemed to care about. 200 miles on the car so far and the clutch works great.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=253942
#7
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Originally posted by TheGreatJ
If you're going to use a line off a different car, I'd use the line from an LT1 T56 car. It's flexible, braided stainless, and about 8" longer than the T5 line so you can route it away from the exhaust.
I you prefer, you can get the full LT1 hydro setup from GM for about $100, factory bled and everything. It just bolts right in, no mess. Then you've got a spare master and slave cylinder, just in case.
If you're going to use a line off a different car, I'd use the line from an LT1 T56 car. It's flexible, braided stainless, and about 8" longer than the T5 line so you can route it away from the exhaust.
I you prefer, you can get the full LT1 hydro setup from GM for about $100, factory bled and everything. It just bolts right in, no mess. Then you've got a spare master and slave cylinder, just in case.
MonteCarSlow, I don't know if the 97 was a slave that will work, but I do know they went to a hyd. throwout bearing around 98, so you should look into it, and just compare to your current parts.
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Car: 1988 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by nsimmons
gee i wish i had money to waste on a new lt1 setup when all i need is a 3 dollar part from a dead car.
go to home depot and buy some braided plumbing hose for 5 dollars and stick it over the line.
gee i wish i had money to waste on a new lt1 setup when all i need is a 3 dollar part from a dead car.
go to home depot and buy some braided plumbing hose for 5 dollars and stick it over the line.
The reason I think I will eventually end up with the LT1 hydraulics is because the master cyl unit from the T5 donor car is leaking fluid out the top where the rod enters the cylinder (I noticed this when I removed the assembly after melting the plastic line). I don't know the history of this master/slave unit, the j.y. that sold me the T5 threw in the unit for free cuz is was questionable to begin with (high mileage car). FWIW, I have yet to move the car via the T5... I don't even know if the master/slave unit was good to begin with.
EdB
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Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
The only operational difference in the slave cylinders is that the LT1 slave has no bleeder valve. GM says all you have to do to bleed it is pull it down and pump it manually via the slave rod. There are also cosmetic differences but they don't affect the way it works.
The LT1 style line fittings will fit the T5 master and slave with a very slight filing of the ridge at the tip of the fitting. If you'll take a T5 line and a '93-97 T56 line and compare them with the O-rings off you'll see what I mean. I'm currently using an LT1 master and line with a T5 slave and reservoir on the T56 in my '91, and have been for the last 3 years.
'98 and up hydraulics will not work with a T5. There is nowhere to mount the hydraulic throwout bearing on the input shaft bearing retainer, and even if there were I believe it is too thick to fit between the tans case and the clutch pressure plate. You could probably do it with some fabbing, but I doubt it would be worth the effort.
The LT1 style line fittings will fit the T5 master and slave with a very slight filing of the ridge at the tip of the fitting. If you'll take a T5 line and a '93-97 T56 line and compare them with the O-rings off you'll see what I mean. I'm currently using an LT1 master and line with a T5 slave and reservoir on the T56 in my '91, and have been for the last 3 years.
'98 and up hydraulics will not work with a T5. There is nowhere to mount the hydraulic throwout bearing on the input shaft bearing retainer, and even if there were I believe it is too thick to fit between the tans case and the clutch pressure plate. You could probably do it with some fabbing, but I doubt it would be worth the effort.
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Car: 86 Transmaro, yes I'm for real do a
Engine: 383, 4 bolt block, scat crank, PM r
Transmission: t5 NWC and its holding up behind my
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt aussie, 3.73s from yukon gea
melted line
I did the same thing... it melted on my header.... and I tried the braided plumbers patch and it expands when you push the clutch in. And I think that because the ID of the braided line is about 3/8 as compared to the platic's 3/32? its acting as sort of a hydraulic buffer and its making the pedal spongy because of the flex. Just a thought. anyone ever tried going to like a htdraulic shop and see if they can fab one?
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