Shifting an AUTO 700 R4
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Shifting an AUTO 700 R4
Ok so I have a 91 Camaro 700r4 Transmission, my question is.. lets say I wanted to race some person, On my car it has D for drive and a D circled for overdrive I asuume then it has a 2 1
my question is, when I take off, do I shift it directly to the 1 or 2? or is it 2 then 1 ?
I don't know if im doing it right, going from 2 to 1??
How do you shift it correctly so I get the most speed?
my question is, when I take off, do I shift it directly to the 1 or 2? or is it 2 then 1 ?
I don't know if im doing it right, going from 2 to 1??
How do you shift it correctly so I get the most speed?
#4
Supreme Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,771
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
10 Posts
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
For the people who should not be driving cars, just leave it in (D) Drive. Also don't race, you sound like accident waiting to happen. Cute username, it sure fits.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
This reminds me of that history channel special.
Just keep it in D and let the tranny do it's work. You're probably going to miss a shift and end up in D anyway.
This reminds me of that history channel special.
Just keep it in D and let the tranny do it's work. You're probably going to miss a shift and end up in D anyway.
Trending Topics
#9
Banned
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Usa
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 85 IROC-Z
Engine: magflatoVE
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 411
Originally posted by GTA matt
I just figured I'd respond to that history channel special. Those old fools didn't know what they were doing.
I just figured I'd respond to that history channel special. Those old fools didn't know what they were doing.
check this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4531513693
#10
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 10,041
Received 395 Likes
on
337 Posts
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
BTW the stock shift point on most 700r4s and even TH350 is 4,200-4,500 not 5,000. I believe only the vette and s10 and s10 blazers w/ 2.8 got the 5,000 rpm governor. The problem with most 700r4s is they shift 1-2 @ 4,400 and 2-3 @ 3,800 or so. If you just let it shift it will cost you alot of acceleration. That is assuming you have a motor that actually makes some power at the higher rpm and can take the abuse. I always had to shift mine manually to run it. That was before I changed the governor weights and springs to make it shift @ 5,500 out of 1st (50 mph) and 4,900 (85)out of second. Nothing like a big van screaming 4,900 rpm in 2nd blowing some **** burner off the road. With the stock 4,400 rpm upshift I would have been at 40 and the engine would have dropped back in RPM too far. Shifting at 3,800 rpm and 65 mph would have brought the rpm in 3rd gear down to 2,300 rpm and performance would have suffered badly.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
I dont' agree with the 4,200rpm and 3,800rpm. Or at least my experiences aren't the same as yours.
My trans when stock shifted at about 4,500rpm on the factory tack every time. 1-2, and 2-3 were always at 4,500rpm till the trans finally gave up.
My new trans has a stock governer, but a shift kit, vette servo, .500" boost valve, 2,200rpm stall and a complete rebuild but still shifts about 5,000rpm.
I need to work on the governor so it shifts about 5,500rpm when I get the LT1 intake on to compliment the rest of my mods.
My trans when stock shifted at about 4,500rpm on the factory tack every time. 1-2, and 2-3 were always at 4,500rpm till the trans finally gave up.
My new trans has a stock governer, but a shift kit, vette servo, .500" boost valve, 2,200rpm stall and a complete rebuild but still shifts about 5,000rpm.
I need to work on the governor so it shifts about 5,500rpm when I get the LT1 intake on to compliment the rest of my mods.
#12
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 10,041
Received 395 Likes
on
337 Posts
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
I am dealing with truck transmissions behind carbed or TBI 305 or 350 engines.
A guy I work with has a 92 RS that shifts at the same speeds. 4,500 into 2nd and less than 4,000 into 3rd.
I wish I knew an easy way short of pulling the valve body to make mine shift at 5,500 out of both first and second.
I am guessing that GM did this on their lower powered engines so that they would upshift even in the worse conditions. That would be something like full throttle and uphill. My guess is that had they kept the 4,400 rpm shift point the transmission might not have shifted unless you let off when going uphill or into a head wind or similar.
A guy I work with has a 92 RS that shifts at the same speeds. 4,500 into 2nd and less than 4,000 into 3rd.
I wish I knew an easy way short of pulling the valve body to make mine shift at 5,500 out of both first and second.
I am guessing that GM did this on their lower powered engines so that they would upshift even in the worse conditions. That would be something like full throttle and uphill. My guess is that had they kept the 4,400 rpm shift point the transmission might not have shifted unless you let off when going uphill or into a head wind or similar.
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Fast355
BTW the stock shift point on most 700r4s and even TH350 is 4,200-4,500 not 5,000. I believe only the vette and s10 and s10 blazers w/ 2.8 got the 5,000 rpm governor. The problem with most 700r4s is they shift 1-2 @ 4,400 and 2-3 @ 3,800 or so. If you just let it shift it will cost you alot of acceleration. That is assuming you have a motor that actually makes some power at the higher rpm and can take the abuse. I always had to shift mine manually to run it. That was before I changed the governor weights and springs to make it shift @ 5,500 out of 1st (50 mph) and 4,900 (85)out of second. Nothing like a big van screaming 4,900 rpm in 2nd blowing some **** burner off the road. With the stock 4,400 rpm upshift I would have been at 40 and the engine would have dropped back in RPM too far. Shifting at 3,800 rpm and 65 mph would have brought the rpm in 3rd gear down to 2,300 rpm and performance would have suffered badly.
BTW the stock shift point on most 700r4s and even TH350 is 4,200-4,500 not 5,000. I believe only the vette and s10 and s10 blazers w/ 2.8 got the 5,000 rpm governor. The problem with most 700r4s is they shift 1-2 @ 4,400 and 2-3 @ 3,800 or so. If you just let it shift it will cost you alot of acceleration. That is assuming you have a motor that actually makes some power at the higher rpm and can take the abuse. I always had to shift mine manually to run it. That was before I changed the governor weights and springs to make it shift @ 5,500 out of 1st (50 mph) and 4,900 (85)out of second. Nothing like a big van screaming 4,900 rpm in 2nd blowing some **** burner off the road. With the stock 4,400 rpm upshift I would have been at 40 and the engine would have dropped back in RPM too far. Shifting at 3,800 rpm and 65 mph would have brought the rpm in 3rd gear down to 2,300 rpm and performance would have suffered badly.
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Chasing Electrons
Posts: 18,406
Likes: 0
Received 216 Likes
on
202 Posts
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by Fast355
A guy I work with has a 92 RS that shifts at the same speeds. 4,500 into 2nd and less than 4,000 into 3rd.
I wish I knew an easy way short of pulling the valve body to make mine shift at 5,500 out of both first and second.
A guy I work with has a 92 RS that shifts at the same speeds. 4,500 into 2nd and less than 4,000 into 3rd.
I wish I knew an easy way short of pulling the valve body to make mine shift at 5,500 out of both first and second.
RBob.
#15
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Moorestown, NJ
Posts: 9,962
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Re: Shifting an AUTO 700 R4
Originally posted by Psycho_91Camaro
Ok so I have a 91 Camaro 700r4 Transmission, my question is.. lets say I wanted to race some person, On my car it has D for drive and a D circled for overdrive I asuume then it has a 2 1
my question is, when I take off, do I shift it directly to the 1 or 2? or is it 2 then 1 ?
I don't know if im doing it right, going from 2 to 1??
How do you shift it correctly so I get the most speed?
Ok so I have a 91 Camaro 700r4 Transmission, my question is.. lets say I wanted to race some person, On my car it has D for drive and a D circled for overdrive I asuume then it has a 2 1
my question is, when I take off, do I shift it directly to the 1 or 2? or is it 2 then 1 ?
I don't know if im doing it right, going from 2 to 1??
How do you shift it correctly so I get the most speed?
When the trans is in 'OD', you have 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with little or no engine braking. In 'D' youll have 1st, 2nd, and 3rd with engine braking. In second itll be 1st and 2nd with engine braking. Ins first, well, you have first. Under most driving conditions, The trans will still shift automatically but wont shift any higher then the gear thats been manually selected.
#16
Supreme Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Ajax, ON
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Auto's shift fine on their own. You will have to be awfully good at shifting it down the track if you can cut a better time that way. I haven't seen anyone do it no matter a turbo 350 a 700 or a 4L60. If you like shifting gears then you would have been better off with a stick.
#17
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Calimesa, California, U.S.
Posts: 3,458
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
27 Posts
Depending on what engine & transmission & vehicle combination you got from the factory, you could have shift points as high as 5,800 rpm, and as low (except diesels) 4,400 rpm at WOT.
#18
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 10,041
Received 395 Likes
on
337 Posts
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Its like my scenario, I had the 4,500 rpm governor that actually shifted 2-3 @ 3,800 and a 305 that made peak HP at about 6,000. It made a huge difference when you manually shifted it.
#19
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe LT
Engine: 357
Transmission: turbo 350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt posi, 3.73 gears
Originally posted by Fast355
Its like my scenario, I had the 4,500 rpm governor that actually shifted 2-3 @ 3,800 and a 305 that made peak HP at about 6,000. It made a huge difference when you manually shifted it.
Its like my scenario, I had the 4,500 rpm governor that actually shifted 2-3 @ 3,800 and a 305 that made peak HP at about 6,000. It made a huge difference when you manually shifted it.
#20
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
in my iroc with 3.08 rear gears and a 700r4 i would have it shifting about 5800 with the bottle....
#22
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Northern CA.
Posts: 5,321
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
Auto's shift fine on their own. You will have to be awfully good at shifting it down the track if you can cut a better time that way. I haven't seen anyone do it no matter a turbo 350 a 700 or a 4L60. If you like shifting gears then you would have been better off with a stick.
Auto's shift fine on their own. You will have to be awfully good at shifting it down the track if you can cut a better time that way. I haven't seen anyone do it no matter a turbo 350 a 700 or a 4L60. If you like shifting gears then you would have been better off with a stick.
#23
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by EvilCartman
A person might be able to get a quicker time shifting it on their own instead of letting the trans do all the work. If I were to leave mine in Drive, there's no way I'd run the times that I am. In drive it shifts way too low even at full throttle so I manually shift it anywhere from 6800 to 7000 rpm. Hundreds of thousands of people manually shift their autos, guess they all need to drop in a stick shift
A person might be able to get a quicker time shifting it on their own instead of letting the trans do all the work. If I were to leave mine in Drive, there's no way I'd run the times that I am. In drive it shifts way too low even at full throttle so I manually shift it anywhere from 6800 to 7000 rpm. Hundreds of thousands of people manually shift their autos, guess they all need to drop in a stick shift
#24
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Northern CA.
Posts: 5,321
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
HalfInchWrench was saying people who manualy shift an auto should get a stick shift and I rolled my eyes at that idea (ie dumb idea). As for damage to the transmission by manualy shifting it, I've never had a problem and never heard from friends of any problems. The only things I can think of off hand you could do by manualy shifting your auto is accidentally go into neutral, reverse or park with a stock shifter or some other aftermarket shifters. It's just about impossible to do that with the shifter I have. Maybe Pro-Built or any other professional will step in and shed some light on risks of manual shifting.
#25
Supreme Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Changing Tires
Posts: 5,675
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: too many ...
Before saying its a bad idea to want to shift an auto manually, I gotta ask why? Are you talking straight line racing or a roadracing situation or something where you also have to downshift? If its just for going straight, you're better off setting up the trans to shift how you want automatically. You can change when it shifts and how hard and get it to shift the way you want consistently. Or if you're talking roadracing or something I'd say best bet is to get rid of the computer controlled shifting and install a manual valve body. Buf if your trying to roadrace with an auto, think about getting a manual.
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Originally posted by GTA matt
Ummmm....these were L98's they were using. they shift right at 5000. Unless your using a 700 out of a 6.2 diesel, the stock trans in a TBI car shifts at 4500. Believe me, I know.
Ummmm....these were L98's they were using. they shift right at 5000. Unless your using a 700 out of a 6.2 diesel, the stock trans in a TBI car shifts at 4500. Believe me, I know.
My 85 700 that I have in a g-body is a totally different story though. However, it's carburated, and not exactly the same, lol.
I wouldn't say that the manual shifting does any damage, and in fact I would recommend it over letting the 700 shift automatically. I don't have any science to support that, but both of my 700's work pretty well for how hard they've been driven, and that '85 has over 286,000 miles on it with much manual shifting in that lifespan.
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pasadena, Tx
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 Formula350
LoL, my 89 L98 wont shift untill 5800-6000 rpms at WOT everytime at the track; otherwise its fine. This is of course shifting it manually from 1st to drive.... Best time yet was when i let the automatic do the shifting itself. Even then it didnt shift to the next gear untill reaching 5200-5600 rpms..... L98/700r4 only mods are full exhaust (long tube headers, 3in exhaust), all smog equip deleted and k&n air filter.
#28
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 10,041
Received 395 Likes
on
337 Posts
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally posted by MaxxMitchell
My old '87 2.8 + 700R4 would shift at 5,200 +/- 100rpm every time at WOT
My old '87 2.8 + 700R4 would shift at 5,200 +/- 100rpm every time at WOT
#29
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Chesterfield, VA
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '86 IROC, black and sharp
Engine: 305 tpi, bone stock
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 pos w/rear db
My Z28 (305 HO w/700r4) and my IROC (305 TPI w/700r4)both shift at 5500 rpm on the dot with the pedal to the floor. Okay for the Z but the IROC would be better off shifting at 4500 since it starts gasping for air around 4600 to 4700 rpm. Stock 700r4's as far as I know. I just put a rebuilt 700r4 in the IROC and it was not an F-body transmission (tail section did not have the holes to bolt up the bracket for the torque arm - had to use my old tail section) and it shifts at 5500 rpm when the pedal is on the floor. However, it is supposed to be a "higher performance" 700r4 so they probably took the truck/van governer out of it during the rebuild. Hopefully in about a month I'll find out what rpm the red IROC shifts at with the pedal down.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 640
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 z28
Engine: Hyd. roller 498
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.90 gears
Funny reading some of the replys. It all depends what kind of power your putting down and if you've got a shift kit , good internals . On a stock 305 I would probably just allow the tranny to shift on it's own but on a moddified engine(good power up top), moddified tranny I would surely shift it manually. I would never go to the track , let the tranny do the shifting and expect good e.ts . Now if it was an lt1 ,( stock tranny) I would allow the pcm do the shifting but that's another story.
#31
Supreme Member
#32
Supreme Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
I typically let the transmission sort it all out. But when I want to slow down, I use the tranny to provide additional braking force, by downshifting it. Before I fixed the brakes on the GTA, that was just how I drove it. The TTa, however, has much better brakes so I don't have to worry about it, and heck, it makes gobs more power so I just let it figure out where it wants to shift and call it good. Autocross? I left it in second. Since I never saw anything over forty miles an hour, I was fine. (slow course, lots of cones!) When I was with CrazyHawaiian, he left the car in first while drifting, and drifted to his hearts content - L98 torque is a good thing for busting tires loose, eh? (not to mention throwing me around the interior like a rag doll...)
#33
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AmpleUnicorn88
Interior Parts Wanted
16
11-29-2015 05:45 PM