SumDumbGuy

Okay, i pulled the 305 out of my car and replaced it with a 350. I have an adjustable bracket for the throttle and kickdown cable. If I accelerate slowly, my car gets to about 3000 rpm before it shifts into second gear. If i take off at over half throttle, the car upshifts perfectly.
Also, if i hold the throttle to the floor, it won't downshift unless i downshift manually.
Do i need to tighten or loosen the cable for it to work right?
Or - would it be possible that something else is wrong because the car has been sitting for two years and i finally finished swapping the motor and can finally drive it.
Any help would be great.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

at WOT the tv cable need to be pulled all the way out.

sep945366

I know this is a really old post, but is adjusting the cable really that easy? I just need to pull the throttle back to fully open and make sure the tv cable is fully extended? I have a 1984 z28 305 with a 700r4.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is really that easy.

Once you get around to installing all of THE RIGHT components for your particular carb that will provide the CORRECT geometry for operation of the cable, all you have to do is, assure that when your throttles are at WOT, the TV is buried. This is accomplished in a stock setup by pushing the retainer thing for the cable sheath, where it goes through the bracket, and pulling the cable sheath fully rearwards (toward the firewall); then flooring the throttle, which pulls the cable sheath back forward up to the right spot. A CORRECT aftermarket setup duplicates this behavior.

Keep in mind, your transmission has EXACTLY 2 eyes with which it observes the world around it, and uses what it sees to make decisions. Those 2 eyes are: the governor, which gives it a vision of road speed; and the TV cable, which shows it what the driver is doing. If either of those is wacked, the transmission has NO CHANCE WHATSOEVER of working right, because it is BLIND to the world at large, to whatever extent.

The usual efffffff-up is that the transmission doesn't know that the driver is demanding high engine power, in which case the transmission doesn't know to apply the clutches HARD, shift HARD, and hold itself in lower gears longer. If a motor more powerful than stock is putting out LOTS of power, and the transmission can't tell, it will behave as though grammaw is driving her 6-cylinder to church without ever touching the gas pedal, and the factory calibration for that set of conditions is carefully designed to to avoid jarring her excessively (minimize noise vibration and harshness) because she will take the car back to the stealership and complain about that, and it will go up in smoke REAL QUICK.

Of course if you DON'T have all of THE EXACT RIGHT parts installed as part of your swap, you will NEVER EVER EVER EVAH be able to get it right; and you will most likely FRY your transmission, probably within the first few hundred miles. Doesn't take long AT ALL That's the most usual outcome of a botched TV cable geometry malfunction. Butt who knows, you might just "get lucky", and be the first person EVAH to successfully ethnic-engineer something and get it to work right. I doubt it butt I'm no psychic so I can't predict the future, I can only predict the past. The more your future situation resembles the past, the more accurate my predictions are.

Did I mention the words "correct" "right" and "exact" anywhere? in case I forgot, those are 3 very important properties of what you're looking for. I could add "perfect" butt that's something mere ... humans ... seem to have trouble with.

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Only way to set it right is with pan off. Otherwise you cant see where the valve is at wot. Blind. And a gauge.