1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

I will be putting a T-56 in the Camaro soon and was wondering what problems anyone has run into? I will get the crossmember from SPD and all the other parts I'll buy brand new. Another question I had, is what flywheel will I have to use? Will I have to have it balanced for my motor or will I have to change the harmonic balancer? Any info would be appreciated!
Thanks

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1991 Z-28 350 TPI, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, 2400 stall, B&M Console Megashifter, 4th gen power seats, MSD6A, Blaster2 Coil, Holley 58mm TB, Ram-air, MSD 8.5 super conductor wires, Flowmaster catback, Crane rollers, march pulleys, and all free mods. (Currently in body shop getting fresh paint!!) I miss her! =(

Steve91Z28 L98

I have a T56 in my car now. It's been in there for about 1.5 years now. I absolutely love it. The only problem I've had with it is it doesn't like to go into gear without using some force. I'm pretty sure this is because I'm not getting enough disengagement with the clutch. It seems that there is still more room for the piston in the master cylinder to be compressed before the pedal bottoms out. I'll be fixing this by trying to move the master cylinder closer to the pedal or maybe lengthening the rod that attaches to the pedal. Also, I have the Cyberdyne speedometer calibration box. It really sucks. I'll be going with the Dakota Digital box in the future. I also have the stock 3.23 rear end. The '94-up T56 really should be mated with a 3.42 or higher (numerically) rear end ratio. I have 3.73's waiting to go in when I get a chance. The 4th gen T56 flywheel will work for you if you still have the 1 piece rear main seal motor.

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1991 Z28 - 350 TPI, T56, McLeod street clutch, LT4 pressure plate, Pro 5.0 shifter, ported plenum & runners, AFPR, Hooker shorty headers w/o AIR, Flowmaster muffler, homeade ram-air, SSM subframe connectors, Kenny Brown STB, Global West steering box brace, Steve Spohn adjustable torque arm and T56 crossmember

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

About the flywheel, you dont have to change the harmonic balancer to use the 4th gen LT1 flywheel?

Birmass

Nope, the flywheel works just fine with the regular motor setup as long as you have a one piece rear seal.

A T56 is pretty easy to get working in our cars. You'll love it!

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec, Accel Pro-Ram MPFI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
T56 - SIX-speed
open 3.73's
3 inch Flowmaster catback
I love pissing those LS1's off

Old time with TBI - 13.9 @103mph, 2.6 60ft

My Formula

FormulaJoe

Ive got one in my 88 and my 89 is getting ready to have one. Had the T56 in the 88 for over 2 years. I like it. As mentioned before..dont get the cyberdyne calibration box. Ive heard good things about the Dakota Digital box as well.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

What about the speed sensor on the tranny? Isnt that sensor calibrated for 3.42's? I know the cal box from dakota digital will work to correct the signal for 3.42's, but I will have 3.73 gears. Is there a way to change the cal box to a 3.73 rear gear setting or is it auto sensing? Also will I have to change the gear in the tail section of the tranny? I know that you would have to do that if you do a gear change and have a 700r4.

AustinT

I have a T56 in a 89 camaro. Rear is a HD zexel Torsen posi with 4.10 richmonds. Works great, No regrets with the gears or Tranny.
If your car has a mechanical speedo check this out
www.abbott-tach.com

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

The T56 uses a completely different speedo signal. There are no gears in the trans to change. The computer handles all the ratio changes. It computes the speed based on how fast it receives the signals.

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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
318 RWHP, 419 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH (2.13 60')
Southern California
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

Brian Shaughnessy

Yes, I do. Liked it with the 3.45's... LOVE IT with 3.70's.

I just used the LT1 flywheel that came with it.... works for any one piece rear main seal engine but won't work with old 2 piece rear seals.

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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-56/3.70 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

99Hawk120

Yup, I have one. Haven't gotten it working yet. These pull clutches are a PITA.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

So all I would have to do is cut the clip off of the VSS harness where it connects to the 700r4, then splice those two wires to the digital dakota box and it will read correctly on the speedo even with 3.73 gears? It's a 91, so it has an electic speedo.

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1991 Z-28 350 TPI, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, 2400 stall, B&M Console Megashifter, 4th gen power seats, MSD6A, Blaster2 Coil, Holley 58mm TB, Ram-air, MSD 8.5 super conductor wires, Flowmaster catback, Crane rollers, march pulleys, and all free mods. (Currently in body shop getting fresh paint!!) I miss her! =(

Brian Shaughnessy

Essentially yes... actually one of the wires from the VSS goes to a ground anyhow with the dakota box.
It helps even more if ya got a friend with an old radar gun so ya can get it +/- 1 mph.


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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-56/3.70 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.

Cntrvrsy

Where did most of u guys get ur T56s? I've been thinking of this swap myself...

Steve91Z28 L98

I posted a wanted ad on the For Sale board at www.camaroz28.com I had about 3 responses from people who were selling theirs within the end of the week. As for the Dakota Digital box, if it's hooed up the same way as the Cyberdyne box, then you'll need to hook it up a 12 volt power source and a ground. Then you'll need to cut one of the wires going from the speed sensor (it's purple if I recall correctly) and splice it one end going in and the other end going out of the box. That's where the box gets the signal to convert. The other wire from the speed sensor remains untouched and (I think) runs to the ECM.

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1991 Z28 - 350 TPI, T56, McLeod street clutch, LT4 pressure plate, Pro 5.0 shifter, ported plenum & runners, AFPR, Hooker shorty headers w/o AIR, Flowmaster muffler, homeade ram-air, SSM subframe connectors, Kenny Brown STB, Global West steering box brace, Steve Spohn adjustable torque arm and T56 crossmember

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how much of a performance difference it will make if I just swap the tranny over to a six speed (if I leave the 3.23 gears in it)? How much of a difference did it make for you guys and what was your total project price (turnkey)?

Steve91Z28 L98

I was able to get all of the stuff from the donor car ('95 Z28) for $1200. This included tranny, bellhousing, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, master/slave cylinders, shifter, pedals, all sensor, all bolts, AND the guy was nice enough to give me the 4th gen starter. I'm pretty sure this is a necessity unless you want to have to grind a little on the bellhousing to make the larger 3rd gen starter fit into it. I then bought the 3 pigtails for the speed sensor, reverse lights, and reverse lockout solenoid from Billy Graham's Camaro/Firebird Salvage for about $30. I spent $80 on the Cyberdyne box but I should've bought the Dakota Digital box instead. The last thing I needed was the crossmember. I opted for the Steve Spohn crossmember with integral torque arm. I think this was around $400 but you can check his website for that. I highly recommend this piece. It is an incredibly well made unit and I've gotten many compliments on it.

As for the performance with 3.23's, I've had my stock 3.23's for 1.5 years with my T56, so I can't really comment on what kind of improvement I will get from putting in better gears. All I know is that '94-up T56 cars came with 3.42's from the factory and the '93's had 3.23's due to the steeper 1st gear in the '93 T56 (the '93 is also rated at a weaker torque handling capacity than the '94-up).

AustinT

I used My 3.08 with the t56 for a while. I couldnt use the 6th gear.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

So, could it be done for under $2000 even with buying a new clutch?

ScreaminDeamin85Z

yes it can be done for under 2k. if your a smart shopper you can do it for about $1200-1300 mine is at about $1350 and will be a little over $1600 afteri buy the pro 5.0 shifter and the speedo box thingy. i have a new lt4 press plate and mcloed clutch, along with the $300 flywhell i had to buy from centerforce!!!
i hear ya on that! i have used it once on the freeway. i was doing about 2 grand and was passing everyone, i have no idea how fast i was going since the speedo isnt hooked up yet.

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Brandon
"ScreaminDeamin 360"
NOW RUNNING!!
1989 IROC 350 60 over, TRW forged 9.83:1 pistons,Hooker Comp headers, crane cam 216/228 .484/.512, crane 1.6 RR's, ported plenum, home made ram air, 24lb SVO injectors, crane AFPR, all going through 3 inch mandrel pipe and a flowmaster.
T-56 ,McLeod clutch, LT4 PP
Newest Pictures
http://screamindeamin.cz28.com/newimages

http://ScreaminDeamin.cz28.com

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Screamin Demon, we need to hook up sometime after I get my Z back from the body shop! I frequent the Spring area every other week or so. Do you live near lexington woods? Drop me an e-mail with your number at ms1badz@yahoo.com if you wouldnt mind, Id like to check out your car. I may need some pointers when I do the six-speed swap! THanks,
Mike

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1991 Z-28 350 TPI, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, 2400 stall, B&M Console Megashifter, 4th gen power seats, MSD6A, Blaster2 Coil, Holley 58mm TB, Ram-air, MSD 8.5 super conductor wires, Flowmaster catback, Crane rollers, march pulleys, and all free mods. (Currently in body shop getting fresh paint!!) I miss her! =(

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

how did all you six speed guys get the reverse lights and the nuetral safety switch to work after the six-speed was put in? Did you tie the big black park cable closed ? - (as was instructed by B&M when I put the console megashifter in).

Birmass

I actually used my 2.73's with the T56 for a while. I never used 6th gear and getting started off the line was pretty slow, but it worked until i could get new gears.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec, Accel Pro-Ram MPFI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
T56 - SIX-speed
open 3.73's
3 inch Flowmaster catback
I love pissing those LS1's off

Old time with TBI - 13.9 @103mph, 2.6 60ft

My Formula

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

any advice on reverse lights and neutral safety switch? I think the T-56 has 4 sensors on it. I know 1-cags 2-reverse lights, 3-vss, 4-neutral? But what ones on tranny controll what? Or did you guys not hook up the reverse lights and neutral safety switch?

Steve91Z28 L98

Ok since you're swapping from an automatic like I did, you'll have to look at the gear selector switch and figure out which wires do what. There's no way i can remember off the top of my head what colors they were but if you look at the switch for a little while, you'll figure it out. Whichever wires are shorted when the switch is in the reverse position, that's what you wire to your reverse light switch on the transmission. It's the one on the passenger side closest to the bellhousing. Then, figure out which wires are the ones that allow you to start the car when they are shorted. (the ones that are in the "park" and/or "neutral" position on the switch) Wire those to your neutral saftey switch on the clutch pedal. I hope this helps you out. It's been a while since I've done the swap so I'm not certain on the exact details. Let me know if you have any more questions.

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1991 Z28 - 350 TPI, T56, McLeod street clutch, LT4 pressure plate, Pro 5.0 shifter, ported plenum & runners, AFPR, Hooker shorty headers w/o AIR, Flowmaster muffler, homeade ram-air, SSM subframe connectors, Kenny Brown STB, Global West steering box brace, Steve Spohn adjustable torque arm and T56 crossmember

99Hawk120

T56 has four connectors:

CAGS
Reverse Lockout
VSS
Reverse Lights

Manual don't have a neutral safety switch, they have a clutch safety switch.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

I know what some of the wires are. I have the B&M console megashifter. I even wired up the double poll/double throw relay like B&M recommends. I have a positive and a ground going to the aftermarket reverse light switch, and a positive and negative going to the nuetral safety switch, I forgot what the rest of them were on the relay. How many wires are there for each sensor on the T-56? One or two wires on the T-56 reverse light switch? Could or should I leave the cags unplugged? What do I wire up to the reverese lockout sensor? Also, would I even need to hook up the switch thats mounted underneath the clutch pedal, or could I get away with not hooking that up? If so, that would mean I could start the car in neutral without pressing the clutch in, right? Keep it coming guys, I really appreciate all your help!

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Where you guys at? .......to the top

Steve91Z28 L98

The reverse light switch is a simple 2 wire connector. You don't have to worry about wiring the skip shift solenoid. There are a couple ways of going about the reverse lockout solenoid. I just have mine wired to an ignition only power source so I can shift into reverse whenever the key is turned or the car is on. I've heard of some people wiring it to their brake light switch so it only energizes when the brake pedal is pressed. I would find this to be a pain in the a$$. If you want to, you can not use the neutral safety switch and just short the two wires permanently. Then you could start the car whenever you want. The only thing that has annoyed me is that in order to open my rear hatch (using the switch on the console) is to push the clutch in at the same time. It does this because the factory wiring with the automatic would only let the hatch open in parl or neutral. I've been meaning to find a way around this but I just havn't had time.

toosloz

all trannys have a neutral safety.....when you are inspected at a track, they have you try and start the car without depressing the clutch

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

But it would work fine if I take the two wires that I ran to my B&M neutral safety switch and run them to the switch on the clutch, this would allow the car to start only when the clutch is pressed in, right?

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

to the top

B4Ctom1

I CONVERTED AN 85 W/ T-5/2.8 TO AN 355 EFI AND T56 USED A CONVERSION FLYWHEEL LIKE THE CENTERFORCE BUT IN ALUMINUM FROM OUTLAW PERFORMANCE. MADE MY OWN C-MEMBER BUT BETTER TO BUY ONE FROM HTE VENDOR LISTED IN THE TECH SECTION ON THIS SITE. THE HYDRAULICS BOLTED RIGHT IN. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE COMPANY MAKES THIER OWN PRESSURE PLATE THEY ALL USE A REPAINTED VERSION OF THE STOCK ONE. MCLEOD DOES MAKE A FULL COMPETITION UNIT BUT IT IS A MULTI DISC SETUP AND IS A COUPLA THOUSAND BUCKS. AND THE CENTERFORCE IS "MODIFIED" BUT WITH A SET OF WEIGHTS THAT CAUSE IT TO RELEASE AT HIGH RPM! THESE WEIGHTS ARE SUPPOSED TO CAUSE A CENTRIFUGAL FORCE THAT TRANSLATES INTO HIGHER CLAMPING FORCE, BUT SINCE THE PRESSURE PLATE PULLS TO RELEASE INSTEAD OF PUSHES, IT WORKS TO HURT INSTEAD OF HELP. THE BEST BET IS A STOCK (ANY VENDOR) PRESSURE PLATE AND A RAM 900 SERIES SINTERED IRON DISC THST IS RECOMMENDED AS ONLY FOR RACING BUT IS VERY SMOOTH IN THIS 85. NO SPEEDO BUT WILL TRY THE LATER SPEEDO GROUP AND THE DAKOTA DIGITAL SOLUTION ASAP

Mike89GTA

B4Ctom, are you sure about that? They wouldn[t have put those weights on if they pulled the clutch out. However, it does appear that they do just that from looking at it.

Mike89GTA

Now that I think about it.. I think those weights are actually to spread out and "lock" the fingers from getting any closer, thus keeping it from depressing.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

With the reverse lock-out wired to hot only when ignition is on, does anyone have any problems with selecting 5 gear or reverse? Or IS this the better way to wire the reverse lockout?

GofasterFirebird

iTrader: (3)

Does the aftermarket T-56 have a reverse lock out solenoid??

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

ANyone have input on how tranny shifts with the reverse lockout wired to an ignition source? Is 5th gear or reverse hard to put in gear?

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

to the top

kevinc

Dude, just friggin' put it in and try it. Geez. Enough with the "to the top".

I'm running mine with the reverse lockout disconnected. Reverse takes effort but is a non-issue for me. R and 5 are so close to each other I'd never run the lockout switch closed full-time, just too easy for me to get anxious on the track and hit R doing 80+ mph.

Chris GTA

1bad91Z, I'm on my 2nd T-56 and both of them took some effort to get into reverse. No way I'm going to "accidentally" shift mine into reverse. As for the connectors, the parts guy at the Pontiac dealer printed a page that showed what all the ports on the Trans. connected to. This really isn't as hard as it seems. Trust me. Later Chris

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

OK, one more question guys!! How difficult is it to install the clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing? Again, thanks for everyones' help!

LeeH

iTrader: (2)

I was told that the way the solenoid works is it gets a reading on the VSS. When the VSS reads 0 mph, it will supply power to the lockout solenoid. I wonder if there is a way to interface with the Dakota Digital box to get a signal....

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, has anyone tried what LeeH is talking about? If it works like that, I'll probably wire it like that! I'll try to ask someone from Dakota Digital to see what they say.

kevinc

The VSS doesn't actuate the reverse lockout directly. The PCM actuates the reverse lockout solenoid based on input from the VSS, and possibly other sensors as well.

Thirdgen ECMs have no equivalent functionality as programmed. You could always go learn assembly language...

Mark A 91Formula

iTrader: (3)

It's quite simple, just like any other clutch really only the throw out bearing is part of the pressure plate