Batass

Just got a trans rebuilt by a local shop. Adjusted the TV cable so it was maxed out at WOT by using the slider. Took it out and it shifted too early and would downshift into third at WOT. So I tightened it up a bit by pushing the slider out away from the throttle. It helped a little but it still wasn't right so I called the shop up and had him do it, drive it, readjusted it. He had the thing so tight that the throttle would only open just past 3/4. I adjusted it so the throttle would open all the way and now it has issues downshifting into third at WOT again. It will downshift into third when I go up a hill but not WOT. It also still shifts into second way early.

When I got the trans back, I installed a B&M shift kit (the $35 one) and installed a corvette servo. Could I have screwed something up here that would cause it to act this way?

I REALLY don't want to have to drop this thing again and take to another shop to pay to have the rebuild done again....

Thanks for any help.

Gregzz4

This is my suffering.
I had the shop build me a stage2 with a corvette servo.
I installed a corrector kit for my Q-Jet when I dropped it off and it was OK.
It shifted Extremely hard. All new High-end internals.
I played with the TV Cable a bit, but hated my mounting location from the kit. I was convinced it wasn't allowing WOT and proved it with a bud's help.
I changed the bracket for the Throttle and TV.
I re-adjusted the TV stock way...push all in...push Accelerator all the way down...ratcheted all the way....
Shifted hard and late. Pulled smaller bit of Cable 2-3 click further out of housing, towards front of car, @ mount, and like it better now.

Side comment...pulled corvette and put in stock servo...much better city driving shifts... no head into back window now and still good WOT.

Keep this in mind..........
Late shifting means your line pressure is still high enough that you internals need to overcome it and your trans is safe.
Early shifts mean your line pressure is low and you could fry your clutches within as many as 'they say' 20 miles.

I set the TV to stock

Gregzz4

Um, I should clarify....
The late/early shifting I mentioned is normal throttle driving. Everyday just in the city like a law-abiding kinda guy. WOT is totally different and doesn't mean much right now until you know for sure you have good line pressure.
If you wanna get serious about testing it, I'll get you a link.
Be here a bit longer.
Greg

Batass

So how could line pressure be low but the cable is adjusted so tight that the cable stops before the throttle goes wide open?

Gregzz4

OK, before I confuse the issue..
Is this a stock replacement or a conversion?

Batass

stock replacement

Batass

Oh and I forgot to add, the reason why the trans was rebuilt was because it started shifting really late and real hard. The fluid was real burnt and had clutch in it. The converter was also bad.

Gregzz4

OK
There are teething pains you will have to go through, like I did, with a modified 700.
But before you adjust stuff, is your TV Cable still intact? You could pull it out and make sure it's not frayed/binding or otherwise damaged/worn.

With what I said earlier, I had it shifting into first from third in the city, and third from OD, sometimes even 2nd depending on speed at shift.
I definately don't want to give you the wrong info.
Read about this a bit at the link I posted.
It may help you clear up your understanding on shifting points some.
Sorry I can't help more but I could cause you to fry your 700.

I did all my own adjusting after some reading and all is good over 14 months now.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml

It may take you some clickin' but you'll find some answers.

I'll still answer questions but don't want to lead you astray.

Gregzz4

Did you talk to the builders about what might have cause the initial failure?

Gregzz4

I wonder if it was worn from normal usage/burnt fluid old and tired, but your cable was also bad?

Gregzz4

I gotta go to bed...I'll read tomorrow...but wanted to say
You know that converters, besides age, don't like hot fluid. Could have all been age..
But, hot fluid kills converters and clutches and burns ATF.
Check your cooler?
Doesn't explain the shifting to me as hot ATF is more viscous and causes lower line pressure.
But it explains the pulled trans.

Batass

It had 120,000 miles on it. I'm going to do a line pressure test and see what I come up with. If it isn't right I'm just going to have the guy fix it. Should be able to do it right under the vehicle.

Thanks for the help.

I used Advance Auto trans fluid, dex III replacement, and I did think it was rather thin and light...

Gregzz4

I couldn't get this outta my head while getting ready for bed.

Your mileage wasn't an issue and any decent fluid is OK. They tried to talk me into the synthetic stuff, but at $120 for fluid per change I went stock. I have a deep B&M pan. System holds something like 13 litres?

I wanted to say while I was getting ready for bed......

I hope I didn't confuse the issue too much. The focus now is on your new trans.

Check your TV Cable and your cooling capacity. Line pressure is a good start but they say pan temp should not exceed 150F.

I installed a gauge and my pan temp is never over 125F with the deep finned pan and an external cooler, not into the rad at all.

I can explain the cooler later. Focus on this first.

Good luck, Greg

Gregzz4

Sorry, definately bedtime.

Thin and light to me means overheated/not cooled enough.

Check into your cooler. Line pressure would only affect ATF heat if you were burning out clutches with Low pressure. Don't quote me but that's my thought.

Cable and Cooler

Gregzz4

Falling asleep and another thought

Binding cable could explain late shifting and lack of WOT

Adjust it as per factory and still will cause issues ie; it's too short due to binding

Maybe try a new cable? They're cheap enough

Good luck, night

Batass

The cable is new. When adjusted per factory it shifts early and any shift besides 1-2 is slow. I have to adjust the slider almost half an inch for it to just shift right. Then the cable is already being pulled at idle and it maxes out around 3/4 throttle.

Right now I'm not concerned about any kind of performance shifting, I'm just trying to get it to shift as good as stock was.

1-2 shift is always super super hard but early when the cable is adjusted per factory. Its much harder than I like and I swear the transmission is gonna spin off the motor. 2-3 is real soft and early when adjusted per factory. With the cable tightened 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are better but the cable is much tighter than it should be.

I don't have a trans temp gauge.

The shop owner was talking about putting a different boost valve in. Why should anything have to be changed? It doesn't make any sense to me that going to a performance part from a stock part should fix a problem. It seems that there is something wrong inside the transmission, like some gunk or metal restricting an orifice or something.

Heres the parts that are in it:
95 4.3 s10 lock up converter-factory 2000 stall, I'm not 100% positive the lockup working. I don't have a tach installed yet.
B&M shift kit-IIRC it just affects 1-2 and 2-3, not 3-4.
Corvette servo
Stock cooler-I plan on using an aftermarket one from a different vehicle when I swap that trans to a manual.

Gregzz4

With my conversion, but set to stock, I also shifted 'wrong'.
I have over $2250.00 in parts in my tranny.
It has taken, on and off, over a year ( Nov '08 ) to get it close enough that I can live with it for now.
Many guys, I found out after the fact, recommend NOT using a shift kit in a 700.
4L60E trannys are easy to set up with an aftermarket processor kit, but I also found that out after the fact.

This is why I said are going to go through teething pains as you installed 'other than stock' parts.

As I hope I said earlier, I only could help you with what I went through.

I had to pull my cable out 2-3 extra clicks to get proper shifting WITH A CONVERSION.

I also had the 'Vette servo replaced with stock to alleviate hard 1-2 at any throttle position.

Read the links on the Bowtie site. There are explanations about how to check your settings as to whether it shifts to 1 from 3 and so on and I hope it will help you nail down at least some of the problems you are having.

There is also information there about line pressures and I 'think' it states what pressure to have during different shifts and how to check if it 'holds' gears.

Good luck, and try not to get too frustrated. You changed the characteristics of this tranny so you need to fine tune it.

Batass

The 1-2 shift is much harder than I like and definitely harder than I want for towing. I think I'll put the stock servo back in.

I found the line pressure specs at TCI's site. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get it tested.

I drove it a little today and when the truck is cold the trans acts great, the shifts are just above stock. As it warms up they begin to happen earlier.