Gsoleski

I just finished up a T56 swap and i'm having a problem of not being able to put it into gear with the car running, but when the car is off you can. I'm using a stock lt1 flywheel, bronze pilot, RAM powergrip clutch, 4th gen pedals, and a pre bled hydraulic system that isn't GM but I got it off of rock auto. The pedal has around maybe 3 inches of travel and is fairly hard to push. I took the slave off and noticed that only one side of the plastic band had broken so I cut the other side hoping it would help but it didn't. I'm pretty sure the fork is set up properly and is on the throwout bearing correctly. I also noticed that the master cylinder rod is going in on an angle and I had a very hard time getting it on the pedal stud. Anyone know what the problem could be? I'd really hate to have to take the trans out again

Gsoleski

I bought some spacers today to go in place of the slave and I watched the rod while someone put the pedal to the floor and I had a half inch of travel tops. Is that enough? I can't find how far it should be. If not what could I do to increase the travel? Make the master rod longer, make my spacers shorter and try that?

DARKmj16

iTrader: (6)

The flywheel is bavkwards or the pressure plate isnt tight enough

Gsoleski

Is it even possible to put the flywheel on backwards? Im using ARP pressure plate bolts and torqued them to 38ftlbs. Thats what they told me on the phone anyway

86T/A_Ram_Air

Does it get better if you pump the clutch

DARKmj16

iTrader: (6)

Sorry clutch disc not flywheel lol

Gsoleski

Tried pumping it today and that didn't help. My RAM disk wasn't marked but I put the side with the hub and springs that stick out to the engine and the flat side to the pressure plate

jazzdadss

where is your clutch engaging? Top, middle or bottom of pedal?

Gsoleski

Couldn't tell you, it won't go into gear so I can't drive

cuisinartvette

Didnt know ARP made bolts for those. Last I checked the ones they listed were actually for the LS1 stuff

McCleod 1502 I believe is the right one

I know those are "pre bled" but my new GM one needed to be pumped quite a few times to work right even though it felt like it was OK.
Was also told wiht the engine off to run the trans through the shift gates and back down 1/2 dozen times or so

It worked. Doesnt make sense but

jazzdadss

I would try this bleeder from Tick. We have spent Hours and Hours trying to bleed these systems. This bleeder made life a lot easier.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/

jmd

iTrader: (4)

That's for the concentric slave in LS1 cars and doesn't have any place to fit in an LT1 hydraulics setup.

The procedure to bleed an LT1 setup is unbolt the slave, point the rod down, and hand pump it. The bubbles have a straight shot upwards. Original slaves had no bleeder fitting.

Gsoleski

I just hand pumped the slave cylinder with my dad watching the resevoir and there were a few bubbles but I pumped until none came out. Still having the same problem even though the clutch pedal feels better now. The instructions with my RAM clutch say if you leave any weight on the input shaft it will bend the hub and cause dissengagment issues so I have a feeling that couldve happened

update:after bleeding I noticed my master cylinder is leaking from the dust boot so i'm going to return those and buy the GM ones

Gsoleski

Does anyone think the angle of the master rod is too off? I'm unsure how to fix that when my new hydraulics get here, move the stud to the other side of the pedal maybe?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...226-post5.html

jazzdadss

^^^^^^^^^
My Bad...

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

I had to bleed mine too when I put mine together. I had a bleeder on top of the slave and it has been a few years but I had to push the rod into the slave, hold it, and break open the bleeder (ensure the slave stays bleeder screw up). Once whatever came out (air or fluid) I closed the bleeder and allowed the slave to return. Then made sure the res was full and repeated about 5 times. Worked flawlessly ever since. I found that procedure somewhere on the web.

Sounds backwards but it pushes the air out of the slave and then sucks new fluid from the res up top to fill back up.

86T/A_Ram_Air

That is the correct way to do it

Gsoleski

Alright I finally have time to work on the car again. Took my trans out today and here's what i've found. First was that the throwout bearing seems to be bent a little. You can see the little flange sits flush but then when i turn it 180 degrees it does not. Should I be concerned with this?



The next thing I found was that the tip of the input shaft is damaged, looks like it was binding and rubbing. I looked into the pilot bearing and it looks like the shaft was going all the way to the crank because there's a nice little groove in there now. Any advice with this? File the shaft? Put spacers between the trans and bellhousing?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

It'd leave the shaft alone, and ditch the pilot bearing. Get a bronze bushing.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Try 22 lb-ft this time.

Gsoleski

Well I ended up grinding some of the shaft down, put the pressure plates bolts in at a lower torque as suggested and everything went smooth. Still doesn't work. I'm guessing I need one of those $350 master cylinders?