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Alright! Lots of how to do T56 swaps here. But this is probably not gonna be that. Anyway. I'm cheap. And I have 1985 SBC so no 2 piece rear main. I've read that these pull type clutches kinda suck and are expensive for a good one. And that the conversion flywheels for a older Chevy motor to this transmission is kinda expensive. I was told that getting a Muncie or T10 in our cars is impossible without a donor car that came with a 4 speed manual. Which is not true. Also been told that the only way to get a T56 behind my older SBC is to pay for the "special" junk that they sell you.
So I thought about making a plate that would bolt onto the clutch forks location and this plate would also hold a stud for a hydraulic throwout bearing. I saw a post with another user using JB weld. I thought it was a solid idea. Have a stud on the mid plate. No drilling or welding. But then thought about drilling and welding. For strength. I don't know what kind of forces that stud would see and the mid plate is aluminum so that seemed like a bad idea too. Steel plate! A plate that would be cut to fit nice a snug.
Here is a picture of what I came up with. I think it needs way more cutting. Picture below is a kit that does the same thing. Found it right after I made this plate. But making dumb stuff is about as smart as I am. I'm hoping someone can tell me what problems I'm facing using this. I'm concerned about vibrations. My next set is to figure out what throw out bearing to get. I think I should be able to use any GM 10.5 inch flywheel and any clutch that's made for it. But that's a I THINK.
Next on my list is that this T56 is from 1993 and its the M29? The better one rated for 400 HP and 3.3x rear gears. I have 3.27s so I know it's close to that. But my input shaft bearing is bad. The cage was rubbing on the race to the point that a needle bearing came out. Now I found the needle bearing and it looks like it didn't catch on any of the gears. The gears look perfect and clean. I got this trans second hand. But I also found another piece of a bearing cage. It looks a lot bigger then the the one on the input shaft. Not extra needles anywhere. I also can't get the pin on the shifter out. I tried drilling it. That was taking a while to even scratch it.
If anyone has any input on anything. From this plate to why the input shaft bearing died. Or part numbers. Or maybe how to remove this pin. Oh the gears all shift fine. Everything spins good. But I'm dumb. I'm not qualified to say its in perfect condition. Ideally I wanna put a new bearing in it. Shim it. Get the gears tight with the correct amount of play and let her eat.
I can't help with the conversion part. But keep everyone posted on how it goes. The one suggestion is before you buy the TOB do a dry fit to measure how much room from your plate to the fingers of the pressure plate.
On the pin for the shift lever I use a 1/8 or 3/32 pin punch pound the pin towards the bottom of the case. It's a straight roll pin nothing special about it.
I can't help with the conversion part. But keep everyone posted on how it goes. The one suggestion is before you buy the TOB do a dry fit to measure how much room from your plate to the fingers of the pressure plate.
On the pin for the shift lever I use a 1/8 or 3/32 pin punch pound the pin towards the bottom of the case. It's a straight roll pin nothing special about it.
Didn't think about that one. Was thinking of getting the TOB first to mock it up but what's the point if I get everything and I don't get enough room. I currently still have the 700r4 in my camaro. It still runs. Well only to what ever is max speed is in 1st gear. Anyway I'll get the clutch and flywheel first place it on something flat then put the bell housing over see what I come up with.
I did look at the manual and it looks like it's got a couple more big roller bearings in it. Not just the input shaft. I'll have to remove the tail part to check it out.
Thanks for the link tho! I'll try to get more pictures of the gears and maybe the broken bearing cages too.
Curious how this turns out. I was under the impression that there wasn't enough space with the stock LT1 bellhousing to run a conventional flywheel and clutch setup and still have room for a hydraulic TOB. But apparently there's that Malwood unit that I had no idea existed until you posted it along with McLeod 1400-22. Searching the McLeod LT1 T56 hydraulic TOB shows quite a number of people complaining about it failing though. It's also unclear to me if there are different height pressure plate and flywheel combinations and what is needed to use either the Malwood or McLeod hydraulic TOB.
The stock LT1 T56 clutch setup seems to work well, but it does get expensive fast if you want anything better than a stock service replacement. There's only maybe 1 off-shore company making the LT4 pull type pressure plates anymore from what I understand and everyone who offers "better" ones are just buying those and modifying them. And the pull type throwout bearings sound like a crapshoot with the flange for the fork coming off sometimes, although I'm not sure if that only becomes a problem with beefed up pressure plates.
Neat to see someone else with an M29 T56. I had a 3.73 rear in the 3rd gen when I was using it but I will be using 3.42 in the 2nd gen I'm moving the setup to. The 3.73 was fine, but it just seemed excessive for my combo and how I use the car. M29 T56 cars actually got 3.23 rears from the factory so you'll be fine. Unless you meant M28? Those are the ones with the 3.31 first gear, M29 had a 2.97 first. The M28 is factory rated for 350lb/ft, M29 400lb/ft, and 1994+ is 450lb/ft. Conservative ratings from what I've read.
Not sure what would've killed that front bearing and its concerning that there are broken bearing cages at all. Hopefully the gears are fine, it's difficult to find replacement gears for either the M28 or M29. They do not interchange with newer units.
You should seriously consider replacing all the fork pads and snychros while you have it apart. The LT1 T56 units used paper lined synchros (like the frictions in an automatic trans) and they have an issue where they'll delaminate and you'll have to double clutch or shift slowly. And the fork pads tend to get brittle and break over time and given that yours is a 93, there's a high chance they're toast. The M29 T56 I got seemed fine on the bench so I installed it as is, but it started grinding between 1st and 2nd and was difficult to get into 5/6/reverse. Turned out the fork pads were almost all broken and the 1/2 synchros had delaminated. Replacement ones anymore are carbon fiber lined like the later T56s and are much better. I went with bronze fork pads, but I've read arguments saying it's probably better to stick with the plastic ones for a daily driver. There's also a shift fork (3-4?) that you should consider replacing because they used aluminum in the early units and switched to cast iron later because of strength issues.
When I took mine apart, I just used a punch and tapped that roll pin out. You also need to remove the two random torx head bolts on the top of the main body at some point. They have red loctite from the factory so you want to heat them a bit first. They are supports for the shift rails and will stop you from getting the guts out of the main case. You may want to look up a good T56 rebuild thread, ideally with pictures that still work.
A proper roll-pin punch (not pin punch) works easily on the roll-pin. 3/16" IIRC.
Originally Posted by rburrow87
Curious how this turns out. I was under the impression that there wasn't enough space with the stock LT1 bellhousing to run a conventional flywheel and clutch setup and still have room for a hydraulic TOB.
It depends on the TOB depth.
TDP in Texas has converted the LT1 front plate to accept an LS1 TOB.
I have seen a number of fabricated mechanical linkage options.
I modded a 94-97 front plate to accept an 82-83 fork, so a stock third gen clutch and 95 T56 could work together.
Simplest is probably going to be setting it up to use an LS1 slave like TDP does.
Back! So I did buy a proper punch set and she came right out. What do you know? Proper tools get the job done! Anyway! I got the tail end off and everything looks good to me. I have a couple pictures I honestly thought I could see more of the gears from the back but that's not the case.
But see I had no idea that could be a problem. Didn't know that I might not have enough room for a TOB. Explains why the LS1 T56 is longer. I was thinking about getting the 99 dollar one from jegs or speedway? Saw it being used in a 350/M20 Muncie swapped 240z on YouTube. Was also thinking about just using a LS1 TOB but I don't know how it works. Looks way to tall. Has a spring on it. I have no idea what I'm looking at with that TOB. It be cool if I could use it. I'm also planning to use a Wilwood Flor mount clutch. Because. I really don't wanna get under that dash remove the column and all that. The more info the better.
Alright so I went thru that post. And his way of mounting the stud was much more cleaver then mine. Tap metal into a rib then mount the stud. I think me and my friend toss that idea around. I just didn't trust the aluminum. But it looks like he sets everything up. And doesn't confirm that it all worked out. But he also didn't say it didn't and the car did run fine. My head says it all works. I think it's just getting the right TOB.
I also want to get a light flywheel. My thinking is that it would help with the 3.27s I have maybe help it rev up faster like adding a taller ratio? Or does it not work that way.
I also want to get a light flywheel. My thinking is that it would help with the 3.27s I have maybe help it rev up faster like adding a taller ratio? Or does it not work that way.
Lightweight flywheel kind of works against you since you're losing rotational mass/inertia for starts from a complete stop. Light flywheel is really good for situations where the RPMs change frequently and you don't want the mass and inertia to do what it's doing at the moment and want it to change.
Alright so I went thru that post. And his way of mounting the stud was much more cleaver then mine. Tap metal into a rib then mount the stud. I think me and my friend toss that idea around. I just didn't trust the aluminum. But it looks like he sets everything up. And doesn't confirm that it all worked out. But he also didn't say it didn't and the car did run fine. My head says it all works. I think it's just getting the right TOB.
I also want to get a light flywheel. My thinking is that it would help with the 3.27s I have maybe help it rev up faster like adding a taller ratio? Or does it not work that way.
Yeah I assumed it worked out because he didn't say that it didn't. Can't imagine that pin sees a lot of load unless the TOB seizes up, but I definitely wouldn't want it to break the case or rip up the lines if it does.
I don't think you have anything to be concerned about with that rear end ratio. Maybe if you had a 94+ T56 with the 2.66 first gear. The 93 T56 cars got either 2.73 or 3.23 from the factory depending on if it was an M28 or M29 T56. So you're either already geared better than stock or right on depending on which you have.
But see I had no idea that could be a problem. Didn't know that I might not have enough room for a TOB. Explains why the LS1 T56 is longer. I was thinking about getting the 99 dollar one from jegs or speedway? Saw it being used in a 350/M20 Muncie swapped 240z on YouTube. Was also thinking about just using a LS1 TOB but I don't know how it works. Looks way to tall. Has a spring on it. I have no idea what I'm looking at with that TOB. It be cool if I could use it. I'm also planning to use a Wilwood Flor mount clutch. Because. I really don't wanna get under that dash remove the column and all that. The more info the better.
Seems like doing a floor mount clutch is harder/more work than just swapping the pedals? Is there enough flat floor to mount it so that it's not too close? Dropping the column and removing the pedal assembly honestly sounds a lot worse than it actually is, especially considering everything else you're already doing. And actually removing the column helps a ton so that you don't have to deal with all that being in the way. It's like 3 bolts on the firewall, 2 nuts below the gauges, 1 bolt for the steering shaft, then unplug the electrical connectors and yank it out. The pedal assembly is just the 4 nuts holding it to the brake booster and 1 bolt at the front that goes straight up. And while the pedals are unbolted, you can take the brake booster out and deal with mounting a clutch master cylinder to the firewall.
I think you need to get a flywheel and clutch assembly on the engine so that you can measure how far it sticks out from the block, then use that measurement to see how much space is left over in the bellhousing to determine the maximum height of the TOB. Would be nice to be able to use a cheaper one instead of the expensive McLeod or MalWood.
Alright so I went thru that link to the C3 build again. The guy who seemed to know what he was talking about said something about 153 tooth flywheel being able to fit in a LT1 bell housing. Does that mean a 163 tooth is to big? And would I run into problems with my starter? I'm not sure what my car was right now. But it is a 1985 and back block. Casting number came back for 1983-1985 for a Monte Carlo SS or something along those lines. I found a flywheel that I like 230 bucks. Billet I think and 26 pounds. I do want to road course this and have it as a mean canyon carver since its already setup for this. I do have a M29 T56 and 3.27s so the ratios are closer then stock but honestly thinking about it a super light weight flywheel might not be the right move.
I think I want to get rebuild parts first before flywheel and junk like that. Fork pads. Input shaft bearing. Take out that old collar too I'm sure its damaged enough to cause problems to the next bearing. I'll take out the rest of the bolts later this week. Fork pads seem to this or that type of item. Brass vs nylon any recommendations?
I've broken my first T-whatever bit socket thing on the first bolt. It's difficult to get a good hold on the damn thing. Need two people. I'll be back at it with a real torch and some help.
Didn't know that I might not have enough room for a TOB. Explains why the LS1 T56 is longer. I was thinking about getting the 99 dollar one from jegs or speedway? Saw it being used in a 350/M20 Muncie swapped 240z on YouTube. Was also thinking about just using a LS1 TOB but I don't know how it works. Looks way to tall. Has a spring on it. I have no idea what I'm looking at with that TOB. It be cool if I could use it. I'm also planning to use a Wilwood Flor mount clutch. Because. I really don't wanna get under that dash remove the column and all that. The more info the better.
The throwout bearing tube on the Muncie/T10/T5 is larger diameter than the 93-97 T56, in case you were going to go with that style of TOB.
The LS1 Camaro is probably the shallowest of the OEM style TOB - CTS-V, C6, and 5th gen had taller bearings. They also used it on the late V6 4th gens. It simply bolts in place, and the back side of it mounts around a circle flat surface to center it.
Originally Posted by Franco85Z
Alright so I went thru that link to the C3 build again. The guy who seemed to know what he was talking about said something about 153 tooth flywheel being able to fit in a LT1 bell housing. Does that mean a 163 tooth is to big? And would I run into problems with my starter? I'm not sure what my car was right now. But it is a 1985 and back block. Casting number came back for 1983-1985 for a Monte Carlo SS or something along those lines. I found a flywheel that I like 230 bucks. Billet I think and 26 pounds. I do want to road course this and have it as a mean canyon carver since its already setup for this. I do have a M29 T56 and 3.27s so the ratios are closer then stock but honestly thinking about it a super light weight flywheel might not be the right move.
I think I want to get rebuild parts first before flywheel and junk like that. Fork pads. Input shaft bearing. Take out that old collar too I'm sure its damaged enough to cause problems to the next bearing. I'll take out the rest of the bolts later this week. Fork pads seem to this or that type of item. Brass vs nylon any recommendations?
Yeah, the 168 tooth 14" flywheels are too large for the 93-97 bellhousing. If you have a big nose cone starter, it won't fit, but the original 5spd 3rd gen starters fit.
Originally Posted by Franco85Z
I've broken my first T-whatever bit socket thing on the first bolt. It's difficult to get a good hold on the damn thing. Need two people. I'll be back at it with a real torch and some help.
Quality T40 torx bit will work. The early T56 guide bolts have a crappy torx opening. Newer bolts are better. The loc-tite on those bolts is unnecessary; clean it off.
Alright. So need a 153 tooth flywheel and a new starter. I'm sure the old guy at my local speed shop can get me exactly what I need. My starter is toast anyway. Gotta tap it in order to start my car. I think I found the right TOB. I measured 33-35mm for the outside of the collar. This TB says inside diameter of 1.380 which is 35mm. I got 34 on my measurement but I'd give or take one. So I'm thinking if its 1mm short I add a mm or rubber or aluminum as a spacer. It's also 2.350 inches tall and 2.750 at full power. Is .400 inches enough engagement for a clutch? My girlfriend would say its plenty. But she's a nice lady. Lol
Cool! I was wondering if I needed that junk on those bolts again. I'll just take it off. I think I'm going to get the brass pads. I want this thing to feel very positive. I think the brass with give me that bolt action type of feel. I'm also going with a MGW shifter for it. So maybe it will be overkill? I know some people do brass on the 5-6 fork and OEM stuff all around. As for the synchro rings. I've been looking. Its almost 100 bucks or more for a set for just on gear. Should I just get a rebuild kit? That seems way cheaper then going and getting these parts as single items.
Little update. I went ahead and removed the two pins holding in the shift rail. But now I gotta start removing snap rings and all that. Don't have the right tool at the moment. The pins however did not have red thread locker on them. Also I actually checked some of the fork pads and they don't have the black nylon ones or anything close to bronze pads. The pads are this white clear material. Quick Google search and found some pads that look like the ones I have. But are for a T5/T4. So I take it someone has opened this up and replaced some parts. I guess to check if things really got changed I should look at the synchro rings. But need to remove gears for that. Looked at the center roller bearing too. And from the front I can see no missing cage or anything missing rollers. Gotta remove gears to check the other side. So next step is to start removing gears.
Back again! The trans is all a part. No gears or bearings pulled. My mistery bearing cage piece isn't from any of the bearings in the trans. Everything looks good. I got a picture of a synchro ring. Don't know if carbon fiber or OEM stuff. I am worried about this discoloration on what I think is the 5 and 6 gear part of the shaft. And this brass washer thing that bent out of shape. But it's super thin brass.
So here are more pictures.
Well, it appears to be a 1993 box, but with carbon blocker on 3-4, so it's been gone through before. Probably close to 20 years ago based on the earlier design fork pads. Your 3-4 fork is still aluminum - those wear at the shift rail; just get a new one.
OEM carbon started in F-bodies 2000 or so. And it's all that was around until a few years back.
I don't see the 5-6 gear location on the mainshaft in your pictures. But it is very common for the inside of the 5-6 cluster gear to create a rust-looking condition inside between it and the mainshaft. Don't worry about the color. Do measure the cluster gear and mainshaft where it fits. OEM gears started at like 1.998" on a 2.000" shaft interference and they eventually loosen up. There are a few ways to correct that problem, but you might run it for a little bit for a shakedown before worrying about it. Depending on your plans.
Well, it appears to be a 1993 box, but with carbon blocker on 3-4, so it's been gone through before. Probably close to 20 years ago based on the earlier design fork pads. Your 3-4 fork is still aluminum - those wear at the shift rail; just get a new one.
OEM carbon started in F-bodies 2000 or so. And it's all that was around until a few years back.
I don't see the 5-6 gear location on the mainshaft in your pictures. But it is very common for the inside of the 5-6 cluster gear to create a rust-looking condition inside between it and the mainshaft. Don't worry about the color. Do measure the cluster gear and mainshaft where it fits. OEM gears started at like 1.998" on a 2.000" shaft interference and they eventually loosen up. There are a few ways to correct that problem, but you might run it for a little bit for a shakedown before worrying about it. Depending on your plans.
Sweet! Already have carbon blockers. I guess safe to say its got them all around. I dont wanna pull apart anymore bearings or gears. Everything looks good. Can I measure clearance between other blockers to see how good they are? I know my 9 bolt you could use some of those flat metal shims to measure how much life the cones had in that. Can that be done with the T56?? And you mean replace the rail or fork? Or both? I haven't removed forks yet. So about 20 years ago this thing was taken apart. Guess good news and bad news. Recommend going to the newer style fork pads are these good to go??
I've already found out I have the loose 5th and 6th. I know I have to send out the shaft to get material welded on and then taken off for a better fit. That always might mean I gotta remove the gears and bearings I wanna keep on the trans. And other ways to fix it? I can slip the gear on. And then give it a nice tug it will pop right off. Can see wear on spines that hold the gear in place. Notbing major. Just shiny.
Measure the mainshaft and cluster gear in the smooth surfaces (6th gear end) before you invest time getting the shaft welded. Splines showing "shiny" but not worn away is a good sign the weld will work. Talk to a shop that does this for T56s and see if one or both parts are needed before investing time and money. The weld really is the way to go if it applies to your parts.
And if you do go ahead with a new cluster gear, you might even want to consider using 94-02 5th / 6th gears. More $ for the gears but that gives you C5 Z06 / GTO 5th and 6th gear ratios.
Getting the gears off without a press is possible.
Feeler gauge measurement of synchro blockers on the single ring (3-4, 5-6) is possible, but carbon changes the characteristics of how it's done. If they bottom out / zero gap on the gear when the carbon has been ATF soaked, they're bad.
Hello everyone once again! So I got most of my parts. Clutch flywheel and throwout bearing. Went a head and got the Wilwood floor mount pedal. And the speedway master cylinder. The TOB is in a mill and a half larger then the Stock T56 collar. Has a bit of wobble. I'm gonna add some girth to the collar. Hopefully with rubber or metal. Maybe weld it to the plate I made if I got the room. Anyway before that. My T56 needs more internal parts. Im finding lots of info on the LS T56. Or the CTSV or GTO T56. A lot of parts that are on that. Are not on my T56. I need to look over a manual. I'm currently on the 3rd and 2nd gear. Needing a press to take them off. I remember there being a spacer for one of the gears I took off to get to those gears. No spacer found. Is also a possibly that my 5th and 6th cluster was never pressed on? Since I removed 2nd. I put the cluster back on and let it drop a little from the start of the splines. I couldn't take it off my hand anymore. Little hammer taps did get it loose. I did not find any carbon blockers for 4th gear like what I've seen in videos.
5-6 was a slight press fit when new and wear happens with 5th and 6th use. Taking it off used with gentle taps means it will wear the mainshaft over time.
The spacers make perfect sense if you print out the rebuild manual with blow-up pics and pay attention to where a bearing needs a spacer. Notice bearings are installed towards the gear side of the gear, not the synchro side.
You're saying you got a hydro TOB that fits over the throwout bearing sleeve on the 93 T56 front plate?
Neat, looks like RAM now offers a complete drop in kit to convert these to a push clutch. Bit pricey but it looks like everything needed and the fitting on the hose suggests it will just attach to a stock master cylinder. Doesn't seem like anything special but who knows if the pictures are the actual parts in the kit.
I got into contact with the boys at Texas Drivetrain. I don't mind sending my input shaft to them. But if it can be done locally or if the gears need a good press on to fit I'd wanna do that. But if it's best to send it out I'll do that no problem. I just need to press off 3rd and 2nd. Before I start diving into the swap I wanna get my trans fixed. Shaft and new keys. My blockers all look pretty thick with material. And I think they get thicker with ATF? I'm looking at 300ish bucks for those extra parts. Shift fork with bronze pads and 1-2 bronze pads.
The Throwout does fit around the collar. It sits just about a inch or so below the top of the collar. The problem is how much it can wobble around. 33mm vs 35mm. I still want to try a 1mm thick metal sheet. Or cardboard or rubber hose to make up that gap. I'll go head and measure up my bell housing depth. And measure how much space my TOB flywheel and clutch take up. I'll get those numbers to you guys.
My TOB was 100 bucks. Rams HDX clutch 300 just with clutch and TOB I'm under what they are charging for that kit. But if you don't wanna go thru the hassle like I am going thru I can see why you'd buy one. And if doesn't work you can blame Ram. For me? I only got me. Here are pictures from a instagram vid I made. So you guys can kinda see what's going on. One is sitting center. Other is me pulling it down showing the max gap it would have if it is allowed to move around like that.
I don't know about cardboard, but maybe metal or plastic? Or an o-ring or two?
Yeah that RAM setup is more for someone who just wants to get it done and not have to piece together something. But sometimes it's fun to figure out your own way.
I don't know about cardboard, but maybe metal or plastic? Or an o-ring or two?
Yeah that RAM setup is more for someone who just wants to get it done and not have to piece together something. But sometimes it's fun to figure out your own way.
It is a speedway product part #91025610. The reason I got this one was because of how short it was and and the ID was the smallest out all the non 200 dollar bearings. It also had the most extension for its size. Just in case for some reason that because it was the smallest that it wouldn't engage the clutch well. O-rings sound like a good idea! Use three? Top middle and bottom. Anyway I'll try all of them. It really won't vs very hard to change it out if I want to try a different material. However a quick Google search and 22 gauge steel or sheet metal will work. It's 1/32s and that is 1mm. I was never good with fractions. Why I'm using mm very un-American of me but easier for my brain.
Thought that was the one you got. I think I ran across some other TOB that used o-rings to help keep it in place but I forgot which. You could also check Amazon and see if you can find some kind of 1mm rubber or plastic sheet and make a sleeve/shim.
McLeod used the o-ring fitment i.d. on their LT1 T56 TOB 15+ years ago. I'm sure some of their others over the years did too.
That early design was too tall, but that's another tale.
Have you tried the cone shims with your TOB yet? Seems like if they were pressed on with the bearing, they would do the trick.
Alright so i got more hard parts for my t56 coming in this Monday or Tuesday. Mostly stuff for 1-4. No blocker rings. Keys and fork pads really. But I did mock up everything in the bell housing. Bearing clutch and fly wheel. I'm about 1/2 inch to tall with everything in there. Probably picked the wrong clutch. Or maybe somewhere someone makes a shorter TOB. Or do I gain some clearance with everything tighten down?
Pressure plate fingers do get lower when the clutch assembly, including disc, is bolted to the flywheel properly. Sounds like maybe you didn't tighten it down yet?
Pressure plate fingers do get lower when the clutch assembly, including disc, is bolted to the flywheel properly. Sounds like maybe you didn't tighten it down yet?
Alright I definitely didn't tighten anything down. Everything was just thrown on top of each other. Pressure plate was about 1/2 inch away from the flywheel. If the fingers or the plate go down as well then I should have the right clearance.
My steel 3-4 fork pad with bronze pads. And billet keys installed. I got my final gears pressed off. Now just need to send it out to texas drivetrain or find a local crank repair shop that would do the job for me. I also got bolts for my flywheel and pressure plate. Getting closer to getting everything ready for a install.
It's been a little while since I saw natural color pads. You're making good progress.
Thanks! I just need a couple more little things to do. I do plan on finding out my stud placement for the TOB. And installing the 1-2 bronze pads today or tomorrow. I think it's pretty cool I picked up such a time capsule and everything in it still looks decent for being way over 20 years old. Also the TOB I bought has a o ring at the bottom. I think that's acting like a spacer to fill in some gap. I'm thinking about using a good tape to wrap around my collar to make up the difference in I.D. I only have a finger nails worth of room.
One of my synchronizers has this metal retaining plate for the ring that holds the keys. I can't seem to get the thing on correctly. Is there a specific way it gets put on?
Dang, didn't realize TDP turned around the main shafts that fast. I should've torn down my trans and sent it out before stabbing it in the car. Got excited/impatient.
It has been a couple years so I can't really remember any difficulties or tricks with the reverse synchro plate. Doesn't it just kinda sit there?
Dang, didn't realize TDP turned around the main shafts that fast. I should've torn down my trans and sent it out before stabbing it in the car. Got excited/impatient.
It has been a couple years so I can't really remember any difficulties or tricks with the reverse synchro plate. Doesn't it just kinda sit there?
That helps a lot. I have set it wrong. I'll go head and redo it. But yeah! The boys at TDP did a great job the shaft came back way nicer then what I sent them. All the wear and rust markings on that spot they fixed all gone. They had me done in two days. Got it fixed it and shipped it. No skin off my back sending it out. If I have another one. That's who its going to. Now I just need ATF to soak my blockers and some lube for all the synchros and I should be ready for the rebuild. Some of the forks and rods are still in the trans case. Also going to look into painting the trans case and bell housing. My next hurdle is that I really wanted a spohn cross member with a loop and spherical joint. But they are closed down due to this COVID outbreak.
Triple check while you're installing the reverse synchronizer; the stamped backside key retaining plate can slip off the hub a little and become pressed between it and the 5-6 cluster gear. Because you're installing a tight 5-6 cluster gear fit, I mention it.
I have bronze on 1-4. Reverse and 5-6 is the plastic stuff. Ill swap it out the snap ring bag came with a set of small and bigger pads. I've soaked my blockers in Royal Purple ATF. Gonna try and get redline ATF from my local speed shop later once I'm ready. Also for the sliders do I wanna use some engine assembly lube? I bought some when I got my ATF.
i just completed the push conversion utilizing RAMs new kit. if you want to see what it looks like, i posted a lot of pics at the end of my engine swap thread located in the link below
I have bronze on 1-4. Reverse and 5-6 is the plastic stuff. Ill swap it out the snap ring bag came with a set of small and bigger pads. I've soaked my blockers in Royal Purple ATF. Gonna try and get redline ATF from my local speed shop later once I'm ready. Also for the sliders do I wanna use some engine assembly lube? I bought some when I got my ATF.
Use trans. assy. lube to hold the keys in place when assembling the springs. Not engine assy. lube.And TAL on the fork pads. The sliders will be awash in ATF; no need to lube otherwise.
Use trans. assy. lube to hold the keys in place when assembling the springs. Not engine assy. lube.And TAL on the fork pads. The sliders will be awash in ATF; no need to lube otherwise.
Roger roger! Well everything is ready for the press. Tomorrow I'll go out to find a shop who can press it for me same day/hour. After that everything else ready to go. I used lube on the sliders. They felt rough. Back says for transmission and diff's. I'll stop using it. TAL on the pads. Got it.
Alright here is how far I've gotten by the last hour or so. I used all the parts off the main shaft. Nothing extra laying around. Billet keys on 1-4 and using the carbon rings that came with this trans. I did soak them in ATF. But that was a couple weeks ago. The big bearing above 1st gear need some love before it went into place. It slide right off during disassembly. I got most of everything on. 5 and 6 cluster needs to be pressed but the boys at TDP told me to use some loctite 648.
Other then that my only worry is that the gears aren't pressed in 100℅ the way in. All snap rights seated and went in without a hitch. Oh and the o ring I'm worried about. It's seated. But I figured it be a almost perfect fit. I also currently can't find my tapered washer for 6th? It sits on the end. I have it around but since it was one of first things to come off I probably didn't see it. Next is reverse and my shift forks. Those still in the case.
01-16-2020, 03:22 AM
